Technical 4bolt-main-different-n-the-odd

I have seen this befor , the 010 on both SIDES of a block, 1st pic ,but i can't remember ever seeing this...
2nd NORMAL PIC then 3rd the ODD one.... pictures are for you to ENJOY.

 

We've ALL seen this....
NET PIC showing the metal content 010/020

 

So, the 3rd pic has the # upside down? Interesting.

 

Yep, the 010 on the side is that same block.

 

Australian SB, where everything is ass backwards?

 

Someone had a BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAD hangover on the production line that morning

 

I'll have to get the front pad numbers posted.

 

judging just by the front cam bearing boss, that's a nice straight block. Nice score. Is it std bore?

 

George, that was my first thought.

 

Thanks ...but not mine, but i get to ASSEMBLE it for roundy rounder, they need ALL the FREE help they can get ...lol

Oh i just got that, NO no no FG -n- Larry the front timing pic is off the net, just showing the 010/020 content...

YES George std bore. on the block with the 010 on the side.

The ODD is the backwards 3970010 number 3rd pic . ya don't run into too many of those.
But i have seen the 010 on the SIDE before...
You guys can SHOW or TELL us here about the ODD you have run into...

 

Just checking in to hear all the tall tales of what actually 010 means....

 

OK, I walked back to the shop and looked at 3 010 blocks I'm working on right now. All of them have 010 on both sides of the block, 2 of them have the rear casting numbers one way, and one has the casting numbers the other way (upside down). I have no idea what this means. I will say that one of the o1o blocks is a little different - with a drilled dipstick casting on one side and another huge undrilled dipstick casting on the other side. Some other stuff that is also a little different on it. I think it might be an over the counter replacement block, but I don't know.

As far as high nickel or hard blocks go - Jenkins says, in the book he published in 1976, that all blocks use the same metal formula since 1955. He said he Brinell tested all the blocks he used, not to check to see if some were harder, but to see if some were to soft. His theory was that the production blocks were cast soft to save machine toolings and maximize use of them. He also said his preferred blocks to build were 016 blocks with lots of miles on them, so that they had gone through any core shift that was going to occur.

None of the performance books published by GM that I have ever read said anything about block material and casting numbers in them either.

I do look at core shift when I'm picking a production block, but that's about it. And I've done it before, but I don't really like using production 400 blocks for performance engines. That's the only reason I'm building a 383 instead of a 4XX cubic inch small block right now.

That's all I've got.

 

that parallels my experience. I have always been FAR more interested in a straight casting with minimal core shift than any "trick" casting numbers or old racers tales about this or that chevy block being a "high nickel" casting.

 

Bullseye

 

And that's what separates the "I Heard" crowd, from the "I know what's real" crowd...... I doubt the I heards have really gone for it, but have survived, and call gospel,,,,, Oh well....... isn't everything the best until it take a shit, and then the badmouthing starts about what won't work, and what is junk.... just another Monday.....

 

"Core shift" happened when the block was cast and the sand core moved under the load of the molten metal. So, there's a typo there, if that's quoted from a book the publishers goofed. Well Seasoned blocks do make better builders.

That's what's important.


If you've ever experienced a foundry environment and molten metal there can be a wide swing in iron quality from one furnace to another and from shift to shift or week to week. Or the metal from a furnace that's just got a new lining or from one that just got repaired. The guys tending the furnace have different work ethics and abilities just like a machinist. So it's entirely plausible that the metallurgical content of blocks differ. What casting plant and what shift did the biggest jack off work at and what shit did he pull ? I don't know either but his blocks will not be the same as that most anal perfectionist guy.

Could be, or not , that someone got and tested a block or blocks and did find higher nickel content in some.

 

Aside from the most common, front of cam (coreshift) area, another quick LQQK is to make sure the lifter bores are centered, just incase you can't see the front because the timing gears may still be on.
They should ALL be centered

 

The core shift deal is on me and posting after a long day. He called it green and seasoned blocks (I just looked).

And speaking of core shift, not many blocks look as nice and centered as the block above.

 

Here is a good read from a guy that worked at the foundry addressing the 010 and 020 casting numbers.
http://nastyz28.com/forum/threads/block-castings.10896/

 

Yep

 

I read that guy's write up last nite. From the detail he goes into its obvious that its first hand experience rather than the normal internet tales that come from someone whose mother in law had a neighbor who knew a fella whose cousin worked at the foundry.

This article http://ironcasting.org/gray-iron/ mentions the use of tin in gray iron castings up to a maximum of 0.1%. Yet the urban legend about the 010/020 claims the 020 means they dumped an extra 2% tin into the mix. Yeah, 20 times the normal maximum oughta work out real good.

 

Very good read! It certainly changed my thinking about the subject.

 

heh...it confirmed my thinking on the subject.

 

My GM employed relatives always had a good chuckle when an "expert" chimed in on what 010 meant.

 

Well, you guys just made the price of my old 010 and 020 blocks go WAY down.
One thing going for me though, is that 1971 is new stuff to me. I do have a std bore 283 Chevy II block. I don't know if has 010 or 020 on it but it does have a recessed oil filter.
If any of you know some one with about $3,000 that needs it, let me know.

 

I am also ok with a block that is slightly biased toward the major thrust side. If its shifted away from the major thrust side, I wont even bother dragging it home.

 

Fear not, the indoctrination of the masses was complete. The value and the high nickle story will remain intact. In fact many will consider it treasonous when speaking the truth, this SBC stuff or other and the explanation of logic is considered the fodder of idiots.

It's much easier to decieve people in the first place than it is convince people that they've been deceived. Plus they will need to read past the 7Th word, follow a link and read past word #7 again just to begin dissolving the deception.

Your value is safe

 

Indeed it is. Despite all evidence to the contrary, the folklore has become truth.

 

Those 64-67 Nova/Chevy 2 blocks(283) were the foundation of many 301 builds.
I've been embedded in the Nova deal for 35 years and have had a few of those blocks.
The 283's haven't reached the level that the 327 blocks have but they definitely are desirable. I check the auction site once in a while and wonder if some of the 327 blocks ever get their asking price. I currently have a fresh L79 engine and have owned two 327's in years past and never paid more than $200 for bare blocks, one was $30 around 1974.
That block went into my 65 ElCamino when I found its 327 block was cracked.
I didn't even know those blocks existed until it was completely assembled and the clutch pivot was in the wrong spot.

 

Were their 327 blocks with the recessed oil filter?