help guys, 216 s/six,,, carter yf,, petronix elec ign, been off road for few months, took her out, running like crap, stalling, found water in fuel, had carb off a few times, drained tank, fitted inline filters and glass bowl,new insulator spacer ,old one was broken and had like a metal ring inside, new one dont. now a flat spot when trying to rev, lost confidence driving her, any ideas? ive fitted new elec fuel pump, thinking of getting new carb, help plz
for last few months, each time i took her out, it would start to sort of splutter, as driving, then clear, then at lights could cut out, then spin for ages before starting again
yes, as best i could from plug on tank, replaced 3 filters i have on, and fitted a glass bowl water trap
50% of fuel problems are ignition related 50% of ignition problems are fuel related I will say I chased the same symptoms , would stop on the side of the road. I was always by myself , so had problems checking for fuel and spark with no one to work the key Would start after a rest for awhile and drive on home. Ended up the secondary coil wire had a gap inside the carbon thread, I guess it would heat up the coil and shut it down until it cooled. Yes , these were " new" wires. If you have an ohmmeter you can check coil and wires pretty easy. If you have a mechanical fuel pump , you can bypass it and run on just the electric to test if it is affecting it. Good luck
i fitted new elec pump today, exactly same,i did have prob of float sticking and fuel overflow but i think i sorted that
Four possibles come to mind (obviously, there are more): (1) Pertronix does not like a generator, have you upgraded to an alternator? (2) The FLAPS carb kits have a fuel valve with too large an orifice (for Ford 300 CID). Even with the correct fuel orifice, that carb likes about 3~3.5 psi fuel pressure. With the Ford valve, it will flood at idle! How much pressure do you get from the electric pump and what valve do you have? (3) The accelerator pump is a diaphragm. The older neoprene diaphragms don't like ethanol. We have the option in our kits for either neoprene, or a diaphragm that is advertised as ethanol-resistant. The ethanol-resistant diaphragms are red, the neoprene are black. (4) Some of the early YF's (including all, I think, for the 216) used both a check ball and a square weight for the accelerator pump discharge check valve. Newer (1955???) YF's discontinued the ball and weight, and superseded these with a square pointed needle because folks kept losing the weight, and fuel would syphon through the pump circuit. The better kits (maybe all of them today) have the pointed needle rather than the ball. Suggestion: forget about a newer carburetor. That Carter YF is an excellent carburetor, and parts to repair yours, if needed, are readily available. (Opinion) the only better carb would be the older Carter W-1 used on the 1946~1948 216 engine. And NOTHING newer than 1970 is as good! But before throwing rocks at the carb, check out both the ignition, and the fuel delivery system. Jon
Most of the Carter type YF carburetors have a 3 or 4 digit number STAMPED (a recessed number, not a raised number) on the center section (bowl) for identification. The number will be followed by the letter "S" as in (S)am. And possibly, a second letter following the "S". Examples: 964S, 938SD, 2100S Should you ever need parts, this number will be required. Jon
update, i took carb off again, made sure float was correct level, elec fuel pump, working well, revving up fine, smooth,except that flat spot at first trying to rev, cant find any air leaks,,its pissing me off now, annoying,
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