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Projects '49 Styleline Deluxe - Project FrankenStyle

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by FrankenRodz, Sep 27, 2017.

  1. waldo53
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 863

    waldo53
    Member
    from ID

    Perfect!! Can't wait to see more pics! I drove a '49 Fleetline in high school and beyond, love those old Chevys.
     
  2. Karl Schofield
    Joined: Mar 7, 2016
    Posts: 83

    Karl Schofield
    Member

    Could you give a bit more info on the power brake upgrade looking to do the same to my fleetline


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  3. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    Such a simple setup, however, I couldn't find too much information on it myself. I came across an old Magazine article featuring ABS Power Brake Company.
    http://abspowerbrake.com/maincatalog_frameset021.html
    Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of the unit before it was installed. The Link above is from their website. It looks similar to the one pictured in the top right. I opted for the Remote Fill Master Cylinder, shown separately in the photo. This setup locates the MC under the back edge of the Front Seat, so you will not have easy access to it from above.
    You get everything assembled, not including the old MC and Pedal Assembly shown. So essentially, it's a MC mounted to a Booster, mounted to a Custom Bracket, with a Steel Tube which houses an Elongated Push Rod. The reason for this elaborate setup is the original MC has an integrated bracket for the Clutch Pedal. If you do not retain the original MC, then you have to fab a new bracket. If you have Powerglide, then this is not the setup for you!
    You remove your MC and gut it. Slide it on to the Elongated Push Rod, up to the Bracket, and using the existing Bolts/Frame Holes, remount the entire assembly. IT'S LIKE THE SYSTEMS SOLD FOR ADDING A DUAL BOWL MC. MOST OF WHICH ARE MADE BY BUFFALO ENTERPRISES, THE SUPPLIER FOR THE FILLING STATION. However, with that system, you are required to ship your old MC to them for assembly.
    They supply a Vacuum Hose which you attach to the Booster, and run up to your Manifold. The Brake Booster should be mounted directly to your Manifold. Your Vacuum Wipers Line can go to a port on your Carburetor.
    They don't supply the Remote Fill Hoses, which as I mentioned earlier, are Special Rubber Hoses that don't degrade from Brake Fluid. I got mine from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies. #3575 5/16" ID. 12' cost $50! IT REALLY SHOULD HAVE BEEN 3/8" ID TO SLIDE ONTO THE FITTINGS EASIER, BUT THAT'S THE ONLY SIZE I COULD FIND. The Remote Fill Reservoir they supplied was broken, so I got a modern BMW Reservoir of the same capacity, and mounted it on the fire wall. If you are running Disc/Drums then you need 2 and 10lb. Proportioning Valves. Shown in my photo, mounted close to the MC, in Red and Blue.
    I just bled the Brakes, and have not road tested them yet.
    QUICK FACTS: ABS Customer Service is non-existent! The Online Catalog is vague, with no pricing. They are difficult to contact, and provided very little help on the phone. It appeared to me like they were industry suppliers, not a retail company. I asked how the system worked, and the guy taking my order told me to reuse my existing MC - that's it! No instructions. It appears to be a quality made setup.
    #7060 1949 Power Brake Booster Combo - Conversion Kit with Remote Fill #62, Disc/Drum $407.00
    Proportioning Valves from Steve's House of Speed $13.
    ATE 2002 3-Series BMW Brake Reservoir from Discount Auto Parts $37.
    Remote Fill Hoses $50.
    TOTAL $507.
    Hope this helps! Don't hesitate to ask, if you have any specific questions.

    IMG_0378.JPG IMG_0381.JPG IMG_0382.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2017
    kidcampbell71 and Bowtie Coupe like this.
  4. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    The entire Dash got refurbished, starting with the Radio and Clock units. The original colors were boring, so I took some creative liberties. The radio was working, however, I removed the 7lb. Speaker, and will just go with a portable Blue Tooth Speaker later. The Plastic Covers on the Radio Knobs broke off, and the Knobs are Wood underneath! Satin clear coat was a no-brainer!

    IMG_0013.JPG IMG_0014.JPG
     
  5. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    The Column Shift Knob was missing, so... I drilled through his right ear, and popped him on.

    IMG_0479.JPG

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    Last edited: Oct 7, 2017
  6. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    The Passenger Straps that attach to the "B" pillar were in rough shape, so I bought a Men's Leather Belt and had a local Cobbler replace the fabric straps.

    Passenger Straps.JPG
     
    pm5471, treb11, 50fish and 9 others like this.
  7. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 4,215

    48fordnut
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks for the ride. You have done very well with the car.
     
    FrankenRodz likes this.
  8. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    Thank you. I appreciate it.
    Today I got the Carpet done.
    I didn't want to go with the usual repop route so I purchased an Area Rug, a trick I've used on several builds.
    First I cut out the center and glued it to the Jute pad over the tranny tunnel. Then I flipped the 2-remaining pieces so the binding would be along the exposed tunnel edge, and installed them. Relatively quick, with no sewing required. The Transmission Access Panel will be sand blasted, clear coated, and left exposed.

    IMG_0472.JPG IMG_0483.JPG IMG_0486.JPG IMG_0487.JPG
     
    verde742, mkebaird and kiwi54chev like this.
  9. chuckshomeservices
    Joined: Oct 21, 2011
    Posts: 76

    chuckshomeservices
    Member
    from mass

    Your car is looking great! Excellent idea with the carpet. I'm in Waltham all the time for work and am keeping my eyes open to catch you out cruising!!
     
  10. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    Thanks! If you’re in Natick stop by the Shop and check it out. The land lord put a stop to our monthly pizza/beer open house nights, but anyone is welcome to stop by and check out the Builds.
    30 Worcester St., Rear
     
  11. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    What do you do when the Remote Oil Filter won't fit on the new Intake Manifold, like before?
    I used a Bathroom Grab Bar!

    IMG_0475.JPG
    IMG_0415.JPG
     
  12. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    Here are 2 more Engine detail shots, showing both sides of the engine. I still haven't finished the front of the block yet (Thermostat, Radiator), because I switched gears trying to complete the Interior, so I can test drive the car before final Dual Exhaust install. It will be much easier to make Clutch, Throttle Linkage adjustments without the tight-fitting Exhaust Pipes in the way.
    After power washing with Purple Power, I wet-sanded and clear-coated the Firewall, and sprayed the Inner Fenders with satin black hammered finish Rustoleum. Any fasteners that weren't reused were switched to grade 8, and polished stainless replace the trim fasteners. It's always tricky to get a good balance of old and new, but I like the results.

    IMG_0474.JPG IMG_0476.JPG
     
  13. edcodesign
    Joined: Mar 30, 2007
    Posts: 4,716

    edcodesign
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I like it, nice work, good luck ! Ed.
     
  14. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    Here's a cool trick I've been using for years:
    - All the wiring is managed in a Wire Cover you'd use in your home.
    - I lay the wires on 3M double-sided tape inside the channel, so they stay in place and don't get pinched.
    - The floor gets padded up to plane the cover with the carpet, so there's no bump.

    IMG_0409.JPG IMG_0411.JPG IMG_0413.JPG IMG_0462.JPG
     
  15. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    Time to tackle the Door Panels.
    After making new panels from Sintra, I covered them with foam spray-glued in place with 3M 99.
    The 3-materials choices were stitched together so that the seams would hide under the original stainless trim.
    Same spray adhesive holds them in place, generously applied to both surfaces, allowed to dry until tacky.
    I found some NOS Coat Buttons with metal loops, and a straightened Coat Hanger through each loop from behind holds them in place, creating a tufted look.
    The Door Panels are pre-drilled and screwed with plastic Snap Caps.
    QUICK FACT: I've been using Sintra brand PVC-type panels forever. It's waterproof (used for outdoor signage), easy to mill, can be heated/manipulated for complex shaping, and comes in a variety of thicknesses.

    IMG_1030.JPG IMG_1031.JPG IMG_1033.JPG IMG_1032.JPG IMG_1029.JPG IMG_0501.JPG
     
  16. xpletiv
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 938

    xpletiv
    Member
    from chiburbs

    Hmmmm, I like where this is going!

    sent from my toilet
     
  17. Very nice. Those door panels look great!
     
    FrankenRodz likes this.
  18. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    I got new Seat Upholstery, and Spray-Dyed the Front Seat Back and Side Panels.
    Because the original Side Panels Material is so thin, as an extra caution, I installed the new Trim Screws with Nylon Washers so they wouldn't cut in to the fabric.
    The Seats will "hang-out" in the rafters, until ready for install.

    IMG_0274.JPG IMG_0275.JPG IMG_0279.JPG IMG_0290.JPG IMG_0355.JPG
     
  19. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Where did the seat upholstery come from. It looks great and I need some as well.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2017
  20. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    I got it from Automotive Interiors & Accessories, Inc. Dianne @ 413.796.3950
    Saddle Pleated $500.00, shipped.
    They are in Western, MA and I've used them before. She used to work for EZ Boys.
    In the end they came out good for the money, but it took 6-months!
    The Patterns were all-off, and come to find out the Seats do vary for each Model.
    I ended up sending her all the original Seat Upholstery for her to make patterns, and the shapes still came out pretty generic, and not fitted as they should have been. It made for an install nightmare, but I think they look pretty decent.
    As always, you get what you pay for, and the price was right.
    I'm hoping to start the Headliner today, and then the seats can go in. I'll post better pics then.
     
    crosswindjoe and 48fordnut like this.
  21. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    How to Upholster a Crusty Old Arm Rest...
    1. I wrapped the Arm Rest in Cotton Batting...
    2. Then a Knee Sock from Target
    3. Finished with a Stretch Knit Fabric

    By using this layering technique, it took out almost all the deformations in the original foam Arm Rest.

    Arm Rest Original.JPG Arm Rest Step One.JPG Arm Rest Step Three.JPG Arm Rest Step Four.JPG Arm Rest Complete.JPG
     
  22. You are doing a very nice job! Thanks for sharing all your tips and tricks on this build.
     
  23. F.O.G
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 259

    F.O.G
    Member
    from Pacific,Mo

    Definitely a more detailed a write up would be hard to find. Your ability to make some normally
    difficult tasks much simpler is a great asset, thanks for sharing. Your use of alternate materials and
    methods shows this ain't your first build...or last Im sure.
     
    pivir123 likes this.
  24. oldwagonlover
    Joined: Jul 5, 2008
    Posts: 247

    oldwagonlover
    Member

    Great job! Fun to come along for the ride. Thanks for sharing!


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
  25. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    No Body Tag, no problem.

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    Cliff Ramsdell likes this.
  26. _justakid_
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 108

    _justakid_
    Member

    Very nice work. Inspiring haha


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    JUSTSMOKUMTIRES likes this.
  27. sololobo
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 8,378

    sololobo
    Member

    I am so smitten with your brilliant touches all along. This is garage built hot rods at its best, thanx for sharing this build. Rock on
     
    Saxman likes this.
  28. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    Not too exciting, but necessary... the new TANKS Gas Tank is in.
    I took the time to paint it with Satin Silver Engine Paint, got new straps, ran new wiring, and new Inline Tube 1-piece Fuel Line. Everything else that held fluid has been changed, so no sense leaving the old line.
    QUICK FACT: Don't forget to add an Inline Voltage Reducer to the Fuel Gauge. The car had been very poorly converted to 12 Volt before I got it, and there was no Inline Voltage Reducer for the Fuel Gauge. I went ahead and installed one, but the Gauge may already be fried.

    IMG_0457.JPG
     
  29. Konman
    Joined: Oct 4, 2013
    Posts: 32

    Konman
    Member
    from Scottsdale

    Great idea!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  30. Gahrajmahal
    Joined: Oct 14, 2008
    Posts: 493

    Gahrajmahal
    Member

    I like where you have spent your time, energy and dollars. The interior is what a driver looks at 100% of the time while driving. Quirky details that remind you of the period like the juke box dash board are what makes these cars so great to drive. I also ended up doing most of my own interior after a 6 month sentence in interior jail with no interior! I replaced all of the tacky fake wood grain decals with drum wrap white pearl. It reminds me of all of the great music I listen to while enjoying the ride. Keep up the detailed posts, enjoying it immensely!
     

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