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49 shoebox with an sbc

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by choptvan, Aug 9, 2011.

  1. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    I recently picked up a vehicle for another hamb member that has a 350/350 in a shoebox. The steering is rubbing the oil pan. Even at rest with the wheel centered. Odviously this is wrong. It has been rubbing for a long time. Think the oil pan was replaced because of it. Anyway, I understand that this type of set-up requires a nova style front sump oil pan. Before we pull any triggers or anything, I want to be sure there is not another way that can save her some cash. So, is there anything else I should be aware of? Any tricks you guys know of? Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2011
  2. yblock292
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,937

    yblock292
    Member

    i just cut and dropped my tie rod to clear the pan, its a 56 265 in my 50.BUT weld it good with gussets.
     
  3. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    I wasthinkin of torching and bending, but not to sure about it. I want a more professional job on it. Anyone else?
     
  4. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    night time bump
     

  5. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,945

    big creep
    Member

    dont do this!!!! very very bad! just do the nova pan, not to pricy if you do it yourself!.

     
  6. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    I don't want to. Welding on steering parts never seems a good idea to me.

    Is using the nova pan the right way then? Anyone have photos of the installation or anything?
     
  7. tobyjuarez
    Joined: Jul 10, 2005
    Posts: 298

    tobyjuarez
    Member

    do a nova pan..
    front oil pump.. all pretty much a bolt in.
    dont touch the steering
     
  8. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,212

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    change the mounts...I've installed three 350/350 set ups and a 350/700r4 in shoeboxes and never had a problem with the draglink. However, the replacement/aftermarket draglink is slightly larger in diameter for better strength, and it gets a little tight...but nothing major.
     
  9. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member


    Now this is the guy I was waiting to hear from! Thanks for the reply. Always appreciate your help.
     
  10. Turbos10
    Joined: Aug 8, 2011
    Posts: 55

    Turbos10
    Member
    from Texas

    Another option is just reworking the oil pan....depends on what is more work. I would find a junk yard oil pan and rework it. No sure where it is rubbing, but just kick a sump out to the side to make up for any volume lost by channeling it for clearance. I have done this before with 16 gauge steel and a wire welder in an hour or less. When you are finished fill it up with water and check for leaks. Mark, repair, repeat until it does not leak. If you can remove the pan with the engine in the car I would go this route. it is easier than pulling the engine and refabbing mounts.
     
  11. George/Maine
    Joined: Jan 6, 2011
    Posts: 949

    George/Maine
    Member

    If were 50 years ago you would weld piece of rebar down 1 1/2" with gusses and then cut out what you don,t need, you may limit your steering some,so cut as much as possible.That was common on engine swaps years ago.
     
  12. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    Not really. I do not have a tig so a leak is inevitable. Pretty sure my customer does not want that!


    Rebar? the ribbed stuff used for CONCRETE right? Damn. Some people did some really dumb stuff back in the day. Hell, now even!


    Pictures of the right way to do all of this when I get it done. Even a possible step by step.
     
  13. Are you using a one or three piece rear main seal 350? If using a 1 piece, I have access to a pan and pickup setup for an early Nova front sump that I made for a later 350. Sorry for the bad pic. We were going to use it in a 51 Victoria and had a change of plans with the front suspension.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 17, 2011
  14. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    Damn! Wish I had known! We just bought all of the parts. They are on the way. I appreciate it! And will keep it in mind. I have a friend that might need it...
     
  15. heated and bent my steering arms down a little [I "flipped" my spindle supports...if you don't you may not need to heat/bend anything] and mounted the engine high enough to clear the drag link. Heating and bending the steering arms made the steering faster [good!] but not noticebly harder to turn. I had 5/8"ths clearance between pan and steering drag link. Also used a 1.25" trans-am front stabilizer bar in the car...it drove like a sports car.
    Photo shows open-ended 1.5"X3" motor mount spacers...I boxed them in later.
     

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