Here is the plywood template I made that helped me re-do all my welds on the windshield posts. I now have a true, flat surface for the windshield rubber to fit. I may re-do the inner door jamb edge once I have the doors done. It may need to follow the inner door edge evenly to look right inside. I had to get a smaller steering wheel so I dont have to look through the stock one to see forward, so I had to get the coolest steering wheel ever.
I had to use a porta-power to push the top cuts forward before I could spot weld them so they dont dip inward.
Pretty cool thread. I always like to see a chop in progress. Is the chop video you have the one with Tommy Steadman?
I've seen some nice Merc four door chops where they changed the curvature of the top of the rear door windows to be very similar to the curvature of the quarter window on a two door. It always looks really nice. This car does a nice job of it.
Yeah, I complimented him on it. I like that one a lot. Im hoping to get a little smoother teardrop line on top of the back door if possible.
Why not shorten the column and retain the stock wheel?...that way you keep the "flavor"....my 2 cents
Here's a view from the back seat area of "my fort." Building the stretch over the back door is my next step. I think I will have to angle the C pillars in a lot more than the front. I have 1/4" cut out & it isnt enough. The tricky part will be doing the next couple inches up on the C pillar, I will have to bend the rain gutter & do some fab work to make the radius I want. I dont want to bump my knees just to keep a stock wheel, but once I have my seats lowered & drive it, I can always reconsider.
The Merc 4 door I chopped had a terrible gap between the upper doors at the B piller.I had to fab new metal on the post to make nice gaps.I see most all of them are like that.I was concerned when you said the body jumped when you cut the post. usually that is a sign of bent body from previous damage or floor or frame rust making it weak. Keep it up man your doing good so far. It is a ton of work but well worth it when finished.
Working on fitting the next piece of the puzzle. The front matches pretty good with the cut off end ahead of it. I will probably trim off another inch from the front for a smoother line. The back is another story. The hard part will be bending the drip rail evenly & filling in behind it. The door jamb at that point doesnt match up well & I will probably wait until I have the door frames built to finish it off so I can be sure there is room for the tail end of the door to swing closed.
I think Im going to have to cut my spot welds at the B pillar & move them out about 1/4" on each side to make everything line up right along the drip rail and to allow for lining up with the bottom pillar later once I tilt it inward.
A lot of cutting with an air reciprocating saw, ziz wheel, drilling and hammering, I have it looking about how I want it and I have my filler piece for behind the rain gutter cut from scraps. Things line up nice with clamps.
I dunno Chris, the top portion of the corner looks too square....That radius is not smooth. I know you know what I mean. Chances are that's why you said "I have it looking about how I want it" I know you have a great eye for details. Eventually it will be perfect.
I am still working on LH side rail donor pieces. The second one should be a little easier because I'm just mirroring what I already made for the right. Not so lucky. Both donor pieces have dents. The ends do not match up with each other, but do at the front. To fix this, I was able to bust the spot welds free so I can move the rail in about 1/8" from the roof section so everything lines up right. Unfortunately, I sacrificed my oldest wood handled putty knife chiselling through the welds. It will be missed.
I want to get a brass hammer & a flat piece of brass and have everything spot welded before I try to match up the ends of the rain gutter to each other & smooth it all out.
Here is an inside view. I took out probably 1/2" to tilt the C pillar inward. I now have both rails where I want them & can continue on to add more braces, then move & align the B pillars. Here's a nice before & after comparison of the window shapes, I love how the back window teardrop shape is coming out.
On to the B pillars. Supports tacked in. The top portion needed to move 4" back to meet the lower. I opted to cut below the rain gutter per Slddnmatt's Hamb advice. A much better plan than cutting 3" above the gutter per the Merc chop video. I chose to keep the rib attached to the lower pillar & notch out the top for better alignment & taper. I cut extra length out because of how the door jamb tapers at the ends. I used a section cut from the donor roof to fill the gap in front for a smooth fit. I now have these pieces fitted, adjustments made and tacked in place and fitting nicely. Now to copy it on the driver's side. More pics in a couple days. (camera at work, don't cell phone)
Passenger side B pillar - all pieces in place, adjustments made and tacked together. Driver's side - about to get started.
I have my piece of roof sheet metal mocked up with rear window in position. Still trying to make a good plan to fill the gap between the sides of the rear deck to the rear window panel smoothly.
I have the top of the doors tilted inward to match the body on the passengers side, fitting nicely, but adjustments needed at A & C pillars. I decided to cut pieces from the original roof section I removed to fill in the gap between the rear deck & the new rear window position. It is working nicely, but a lot of work & adjustment to keep it in line with the flow of the deck & trunk lid. Once this is done I will trim the rear window section, a little at a time to acheive a perfect fit and line up with the C pillar flap. I will also have to make some cuts at the top of the rear window to flare it to fit.
The Jalopy Journal
