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Projects 49 Hudson Kustom

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by KustomKreeps, Apr 6, 2017.

  1. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,038

    oj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Very nice, top shelf workmanship, thats a fact! You'd like Rubadub, its a Nash, same DSC00330.JPG but different. I can tell you for a fact Rubadub is a whore to change a tire, watch yourself. They're built about the same.
     
  2. Great to see your getting things done.
    I'm in Australia at present, saw this at Cooly Rock's On. 20180609_153915.jpg
     
  3. Believe it or not @oj I knew the previous owner of Rubadub.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  4. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Yeah its been on my mind since I first took the original rims off the car.
    The new tires are wider 235s than stock rubber so things will be even tighter. Rims are 15" like stock and overall tire diameter is the same as stock (28"). Its just a tad wider.
    Narrowed the diff a bit and running an off-set on the rims to help a bit.
    The hopeful plan is to air up the rear end so it sits about stock ride height or a tad higher than original ride height. Then roll the tire up from under the car into the tire well.
    Time will tell if this plan will work I guess. Or at least until I get it off the rotisserie to test.
    Other back up plans include deflating the tire putting it on then running a air hose from the airtank to inflate it. I have already added the valves to both inflate the tank/bags at a service station should I experience a pump/s failure and another to hook up a hose to so I can inflate the tires if needed.
    And most drastic plan but one we have factored in as an emergency back up is dropping the diff. We have made it so it is no hard task to drop down the diff even road side. Still not a procedure I want to be doing if possible.
    Final option I guess is that crap you spray in the tire when its flat. Not a fan of it though but if it means I get to a service station or something....

    As my better half points out. "The insurance comes with free nationwide 24/7 Road Side Assistance. Play lady in distress and get them to deal with it"

    heck im not even sure if I will have room for a spare tire yet. Custom gas tank will be taking up much of the trunks floor and will also have other things like air tank, pumps, battery/s, amp, tool storage and god knows what else in there. lest being four door i got the back seat for bags n junk.
     
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  5. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,233

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Lots of current production cars have no spare tires. I have at least two OT models that came that way.
    I carry tubeless tires repair kits with the twisted cord plug and adhesive and Fix-A-Flat and a 12V mini air compressor (the latter actually standard equipment on most without spares).

    When I think about how many times I have had a flat on my automobiles and trucks in the last ten years, it is less than the fingers on one hand. Now, trailers, that is another matter. I 'always' have a trailer spare and the means to change it.

    But for passenger car tires, I keep good tires on all my cars and monitor pressures regularly. Even when they pick up a nail or screw, they usually have a slow leak, not a catastrophic failure.

    But, sooner or later, on the road or in the driveway or garage, you will want to change a rear wheel/tire. Best to have a feasible plan of action well before the need arises.

    Ray
     
  6. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    If you have ever seen what can happen if a driveshaft goes bad then you can understand the importance of drive shaft loops. Mandatory here in NZ and come with a raft of requirements on positioning, thickness, design, how many you need and god knows what.

    The idea of being in a pole vaulting car as a broken shaft digs in to the pavement dosnt light my candle so to speak so Flockie and I got out to the shed and tackled the rear loop. one of the two the Hudson needs.

    Nice thick 6mm plate all bent up for the loop then a sandwich of another couple of 6mill plates on the floor to hold it all in place.

    Hanging off the loops floor plates we added more exhaust hangers. two for each muffler. this is to help stop the roll we had in the system that may cause issues over time. So in that section we have a bobbin/cotton reel mount carrying & positioning the load as it comes through the tunnel then two hangers just after it per muffler. We have so much tucked up in this area that we have to have that rigid placement to make sure all clearances are correct and everything stays where we want it to.

    Also added the two 90s behind the diff with flanges with a couple of bobbin mounts. Although everything currently looks good with no movement in the system and ample(yet rather tight) gaps we realize things can shift so these back mounts mounting plate are bolted to the floor to add a bit of future flexibility should we get some rattle or something.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Guess next weekend we will do the front loop. Maybe run the front pipes and add the H cross over then toy with handbrake cable routing ideas(have a Lokar kit). Or perhaps look at the rear that will need strengthened & notched to allow the pipes to pass through.
     
  7. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,233

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    No matter how beautiful and well engineered the work you have shown in successive posts, you guys never fail to impress all over again in the next round of progress updates! Just terrific!!

    Ray
     
  8. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Exhaust is done for the time being. Sure we will take it off to weld up and paint in the coming weeks but this is as far as we will go on it until it is sitting back on ground.

    [​IMG]

    Added in the two mid/front sections of pipe. Had to off-set one slightly to get better clearances etc as it comes forward to the trans. the H will be in the next section.

    As for the back. Well cut the holes for where the exhaust will pass through the frame but really need the car on the ground with the bumper on to get this bit sorted. Will tidy this up next week I guess.

    [​IMG]

    As you can see in the below pic everything is tucked up nicely. Those mufflers are 5 inch thick. Yip the big fat mothers are sitting flush with everything else and not dangling low whilst they have about half inch clearance from muffler to heat and sound treated floor.
    [​IMG]
    Also started the park brake.

    Using a Lokar kit. The Wilwood disks at the back have a drum assembly as well for the park brake and everything just clipped together easy.

    Routed the cables through the frame. Used a bit of airhose to insulate/protect the cables even though they are in a heavy duty housing. Thats what the blue pipes are on the top pic. Yeah not the best looking I know but really who cares. They will get painted up and after driving will be coated in road gunk in no time.

    Made up a mounting plate with a access hole to get to the bolt under it.
    [​IMG]
    Idea is the front handbrake cable(using the stock Hudson one) will run along the inside of the outer frame to a lever we will make up next week that will attach to these brake cables. Lever so we can apply more force and thus lock those brakes up more effectively.

    [​IMG]
    You might of spotted the brake booster is in place. Was all very good chatting about levers etc for the handbrake but with real-estate under the car being restrictive we had to make sure both the brake booster and park break lever would fit in the same area together.

    As you can see – plenty of room for the rest of the park break system/lever.

    The placement of the brake booster worked out ace. way better than I hoped for to tell the truth. All I had thought was along the lines of ” I want it out of sight maybe hidden away under the floor like the original Hudson system.” Well how Flockie designed up the front sub frame works so well with the setup. Will bolt right up to the frame as you can see and it aligns right up with the hole in the firewall for the brake pedal assembly.
    [​IMG]
    Only issue was we had to cut a bleeping hole in the floor. Sigh. But what can you do? It hardly pokes through and with luck once its carpeted up with wont be noticeable.

    Guess I will give a run down on what im using. Hydrotech hydro boost unit. Supposed to be the bee’s knees with more stopping power than a vacuum booster. Runs off the PS pump not the engines vacuum so may free up a few HP. Has an accumulator that gives three or so full pressure presses of the pedal should a failure happen to the PS pump or something. Then the system would work like manual brakes.

    Then a dual master cylinder. Bore of 1.125 in./1.578 in. Have a remote cap & reservoir to throw on it so I dont need to worry about access holes in the floor and lifting carpet etc to check the brake fluid etc. More on all this latter down the track I guess.

    Will reposition the proportioning value under the MC instead of pointing down. Will also change out some of the hydraulic fittings to banjo’s /90’s.

    But yeah happy how it all mounts up & aligns up. Was thinking we might have to make big brackets to hold it in etc but how it lines up and mounts up with the frame is ace.
     
  9. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,233

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Looks great, as we have come to expect. I do have a question, though. The top photo appears to show the driveshaft center u-joint and slip joint offset to the right side. It appears the pinion is centered, as is the front driveshaft yoke. Am I 'seeing things' or is that the case and, if so, may I ask why that was deemed necessary?

    Ray
     
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  10. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    its all offset a bit. Basically copied what the original Hudsons ran.
    umm guess I will start at front and work my way back.
    The engine it self is offset an inch to allow clearance for the PS pump. Hard to tell when its in the car and you look at it but I needed that inch to get hoses on/off and not touch anything.
    The Trans cross member pictured above has one side shorter to allow for this offset.
    The front drive shaft is kinda just dangling at the moment. supported by a bit of wire. will be a bit 'up' so to speak i guess when the trans is in and all attached.
    The tunnel it self is not centered as well what makes everything look even more off kilter. Easiest to notice this looking at the center brace where the drive shaft goes through. you will see that the bottom is alot longer than the top. Hudsons had the tunnel off by a considerable amount to the right.
    If you scroll on up a few posts to where we started to make this area and bolt the bearing in you will see we did it pretty much centered in the tunnel. Didnt have much choice with how wide the bearings foot print is and how wide an area we had to work with. Still this is position is about the same as stock hudson who had it centered in tunnel.
    the diffs pumpkin is also offset to be the same as stock Hudsons diff.
    The angles we have we hope to be best for the universals who like to work on a bit of an angle. the rear is very close to stock hudson. the front is still a bit hmm until we get the trans in.

    god what a rant just to say yes you are right the bearing even though its centered in tunnel is off to the right a bit >.>
     
  11. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,233

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Thank you for the explanation. I appreciate thorough explanations that leave little to guesswork. It happens to be my 'style.'. My friends and family have agreed that if "you ask him what time it is, he'll tell you how to make a watch"...:D

    A corollary is "The Devil is in in the details"......

    Ray
     
  12. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Haven’t been up to much of late. this is more like a car diary update for my self than any progress update I guess.

    Exhaust is all TIGed up. looks good and rather jealous of Flockies nice even pattern he is able to achieve compared to the mess my efforts tend to yield.

    Whilst the sun was shining the better half got out the spray gun and painted up the exhaust then touched up the lizard skin here and there under the car.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Flockie got busy on the lathe and machined up some bushings for the front airbags then made some other non-collapsible bits to help mount up the brake booster. Tell you having all the kit to just go machine up stuff as you need it is brilliant and a great time saver.
    [​IMG]

    Booster is all sitting up nice n pretty. Tucked up under the floor panel with a remote reservoir cap on it to make life easier in the future. Will change out the long low pressure out fitting you see just ending at the bottom of the frame to a banjo style so every thing is kept well up and safe. Thought this image might be of interest to other stepdown Hudson owners who have thought about updating the stock MC and wanted to know if a more modern duel style would fit.
    [​IMG]

    Chucked on a few tires. Getting tires on/off the back has always been a bit of a concern. Happy to report the back 235 on 7 inch wide rims went on just fine. Clearance on the inner side is a bit tight. say 1/2″ from the rubber to frame. so will get a 10mm slip on spacer just to give a bit more breathing room. Have about two inch from top of tire to wheel well at air out. Before any one says - yes will clamp down that handbrake cable.
    [​IMG]
    Also need a spacer up front as the outer step part of the wheel centers just barley hit the top of the big bleeping 6 pot calipers. Bit of a shit when you get custom rims made up then need to use spacers. Still its nothing major I guess.

    Its going to sit nice n low how we wanted it. Wont see any of the red rims once its on the ground with its skirts on at air out. Heck with a tank of gas and all the other weight might no see any white as well.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    We are swapping out the shockwave air bags at the back to a larger ones. With adjusting the mounts on the diff we will be able to obtain the same low air out height as it currently sits whilst being only slightly higher on ride height and much higher on air up / fully inflated. If that’s to low then we can go up another one or two inch but will not be able to go lower with out fab work.
     
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  13. 392
    Joined: Feb 27, 2007
    Posts: 874

    392
    Member

    Great build. Kickass work.
     
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  14. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Not much of an update really as I have been working over the last weekends.

    Have decided not to run the spacers and will get the rims either altered if possible or two new rims made up.

    Some people on some sites I post say just grind the calipers but dont really want to go attacking the expensive 6 pot behemoths. Also think I would need more than the two or three mill most people say should be fine. No idea how they look inside so dont want to go putting holes in them.

    new shocks arrived and fit up nice. Air our low height is the same but max air up is wayyy higher. like above stock standard hudson.

    [​IMG]

    oh tires are all bolted up at the back as well as you can see.

    other than that fiddled around with the brakes a bit. Need to take all the brake line off to flare it but did a few smaller bits.
    [​IMG]
    Did nice little piggie tail loops from the MC to prop valve. Word is they help with line flex & vibrations. We did a straight line then a piggietail. I wasnt sure what I liked more. the clean look of the straight line or the more fancy loops. went for the loops in the end as you can see. Didnt take long just hand bent around a socket, pulled apart all even then flared.
    [​IMG]

    What do you guys think about looped lines?
     
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  15. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,233

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    This is one of the most sanitary and well engineered builds it has been my pleasure to see...even from afar...it is outstanding. The only thing I would change is ownership...:D

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2018
  16. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    lol thanx.
    means alot from a dude with such experience and with so many great cars of his own.
     
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  17. Hansom devil!
     
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  18. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Dropped off the front rims to get the backspacing adjusted so I wont need to run spacers. With luck will be ready next week. Then it can come off the rotisserie!

    We have been feking about with the brakes still. mounted up the park-brake etc but have decided to change it up yet again. the current setups lever is only like 2:1 may change it to 3:1. basically by drilling another hole.
    [​IMG]
    Top holes are for a spring I still need to get.

    The front after market drive shaft loop (thanks guys at Kruzin Kustoms) is just sitting there but will be bolted up next weekend. Just need to make up some plates for the inside to sandwich mount it to the floor. Should mount in the middle of the circles on the floorpan under the seat.

    Plumbed up the back brakes. Mounts fabed up with a recess cut out of them to allow water to flow and not pool. No doubt it will soon get a stone or something in it but mehh what can you do.
    [​IMG]

    Flexy lines all positioned to clear any obstacles such as frame, bags, bumpstops, tires and what ever else at all airbag heights.
    [​IMG]
    Have ran the RH side front hard line. Need to get a lil more hardline to do the other side. Also need to grab a couple of fittings. then brakes are done pretty much.

    So front DS loop and a few meters of brake line work and done. May just put the old rims on it and take it off if I dont have patience to wait further week to get my old rims back, tires on and balanced.

    ‘Mo on Jalopy Journals HAMB forums gave me the idea of suicide rear doors. Rather like that idea I must admit. May be something we will look into a bit further down the track.
     
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  19. hudson48
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 2,189

    hudson48
    Member

    What are those shocks? (Shockwaves?)Is that all that hold the rear up? No other bags like rolling sleeves .
    Do they incorporate the air bags and shocks
    When aired up what is maximum diameter?
     
  20. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Yip thats all that holds it up. Have them front and back.
    Ridetech Shockwaves HQ 8000 series on the back with a 6.9" stroke. Think coilovers but change the coil to bag.
    24 rebound clicks air shock.. Internal bump stops. 1,000,001 mile warranty.
    [​IMG]
    Ridetech link: https://www.ridetech.com/applications/streetrods/universal-shockwave-8000-series-clone/
     
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  21. scrap_metal
    Joined: Sep 26, 2017
    Posts: 182

    scrap_metal
    Member

    That's going to be one rattle free ride. Went all out with the hangers. Can wait to see how it rides with the shockwaves. I have wanted to buy them but not much info on them from other hotrodders and they cost some bucks. Cant wait for the verdict on these. Excellent work Sir.
     
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  22. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 6,754

    'Mo
    Member

    Lordy! I'd build a motorized dolly, and drive that thing on its side.
    Pure ART!
     
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  23. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Finally on the ground.

    Image below for an idea on air up height.
    [​IMG]

    And air out. Note it will have side pipes that will make it a tad lower still.
    [​IMG]

    A+B=Fun.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  24. reeveswelding86
    Joined: Aug 17, 2018
    Posts: 10

    reeveswelding86
    Member

  25. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Oh man I haven't updated this for so long. Six months ~ time fly's and all that guff.
    Didnt really do anything to the Hudson over the Summer. Messed about on the old 52 Buick a bit as it has been playing up but other than its all been work or play I guess.

    Anyway thats my lifes catch up hour complete. lets talk old jalopies & do a quick catch up on to where the Hudson currently sits. And then with luck I will pull my finger out so to speak and start updating this more regularly.

    I should warn you all now this might be a tad pic heavy. Photobomb you all since I plan to follow the old saying "A picture is worth a thousand words". Oh and images are all odd sizes due to camera settings at the time. dratted updates.

    First off the engine was put back in and tight tuck headers thrown on.
    [​IMG]
    Left hand side had clearance issues so we put spacers on the engine mounts raising the engine a fraction to cure the issues. Although we have clearance at the firewall it will get cut more to tidy things up and give a tad more room.
    [​IMG]
    Wheels on, engine in and sitting on the ground... better jump in and visualize cruising.
    [​IMG]

    Radiator slotted in. Happy that we modded the thing to have twin fillers and a central top outlet. Purely for aesthetic reasons really. Just hope it will work well.
    [​IMG]
    Was a bit concerned about the amount of space between the rad and engine at first. but once the custom fan shroud is on and other junk is in there the gap should fill up I hope.
    [​IMG]

    With the engine in and headers on next steep seems logical enough - fab up the front exhaust. Was surprised how easy it went.
    [​IMG]
    Heap of room on each side so no issues getting to the oil filter or anything else. Still is rock solid.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Welded all up ready for a quick paint and fitting. H balance pipe just at the tail of the trans. the two extra out lets poking out the sides are for the lake pipes - I like the idea of them being functional if i want. Looking at the above pic and below you will note they are situated in a low spot. this is not just cus it is just where they should be body wise but also to stop the possibility of any water pooling.
    [​IMG]

    Shiny sh!t
    First off i will say IDIDIT sales are top blokes. Why they never just blocked my emails is beyond me. For two years one, two or 4 times a month I would email them asking when there RHD column shift steering column would be ready. Patient bunch always emailed back. After a year or so they made up a column - it failed Aussie testing as it was to strong and didnt collapse enough. Will point out NZ cert laws are also extremely tight around steering columns with only four or so aftermarket brands being aloud. Rightly so as it is a big spear that could impale you. Anyway im waffling. To cut a long story short they have now made up a RHD column shift column- although its still not on the website. Since I had to wait so long they gave me a huge discount.
    Was a happy boy unboxing all teh steering crap.
    [​IMG]
    Initial fit up. Wasn't to thrilled on how the column sat at the dash. column drop was to low(as pictured below) so decided to order in a new one. Slightly cutting up the dash but will be worth it to get it to sit up in the stainless strip more.
    [​IMG]
    Whilst we waited for the shorted column drop it was decided to cut up the firewall a bit more as next we would need to figure out the lower floor mount for the column that currently dangled in the air.
    [​IMG]
    Three double D universals will be used. Bit tight near the headers but still will be easier than some setups.
    [​IMG]
    Below looks closer to the headers than it really is. has near an inch I guess of clearance.
    [​IMG]
    Its all nice and tight no slop or wiggle and more importantly no binding.
    [​IMG]

    With the front exhaust and steering done its time to move to the gaping hole in the floor and firewall.
    [​IMG]
    Top of the firewall all buttoned up. Will get cleaned up down the track but for now at least we have an area to bolt the trans cover to. Heap of room to fiddle about on the distributor etc.
    [​IMG]
    Skellington framework being made up for the trans cover. Bit by floor mount will get altered as I dont want it to be incorporated into the trans cover. Who wants the bother of removing the column to get the trans cover out? Will get it all folded up. Note the columns new position up further in the dash. Tilt column so should be ace.
    [​IMG]

    Been teaching myself Solidworks. Designed up the fan shroud and got it cut n folded.
    [​IMG]
    A couple of Spall high performance fans sit on the the shroud. I figure if they are good enough to cool NASCAR and high end sports cars then they should suck air through the four core copper rad and keep the old donk chilly. The rubber flaps are for highway speeds to let trapped hot air out. Middle rivets hold a divider in place that separates each fan. Thinking here being air follows the path of least resistance. So if only a single fan is running then air would draw through the other fans opening and not through the rad. Being in separate chambers hopefully will stop this happening.
    [​IMG]
    So yeah thats me pretty much! All caught up with the Hudson project. With luck will be getting back to it more now its coming into Autumn.

    One side note is the missus has got her self a new car. Just a small grocery getter / run about. A 1956 Morris Minor split window series II coupe. Seems to be rust free and mechanically sound little car - totally road worthy and legal. Owned by a nursing home from new till the old couple who she purchased it off got it. Garaged and loved all its life.
    So what do you do when you get a honest survivor in good condition?
    Cut it up of course!
    [​IMG]
    TheMoose on HAMB photoshoped it doing all we asked. chop roof, fade-away fenders, skirts & lower it. Like an old 47 buick just compacted. Once the current warrant of fitness runs out (6 months) the fun begins. Oh and old 30HP factory engine will be going as well.
     
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  26. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 308

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Started on the floor at the back.
    The cover over the diff will be able to be removed should we ever need access to the diff, air bags or what ever from the top.
    A few folded strips added for both strengthening and to giving us a place to attach the main 2mil sheet cover added first with nutserts.
    Cover that had been pre cut n folded dropped in place pretty much with a bit of tapping.

    The shelf is the perfect place for the Ridetech 5 gallon tank, twin pumps and all the other air ride junk.
    [​IMG]
    With it up there out of the way it frees up space in the boot/trunk. Positioned to the side to leave space for the stereo amp or what ever else.
    [​IMG]

    Need to get a few counter sunk bolts to attach the fuse panel. the 5 gallon tank has 5 outlets (not including drain ofc) three are used by the system. another I have put a tire inflation valve on just encase both the pumps die it gives me the option to pump it up at a service station. the last im thinking of putting a fitting on so I can plug in a hose that can be used to inflate tires.
    [​IMG]
    The system comes with multiple ways to control. Bluetooth/cell phone/tablet, remotes, or a control panel. Will mount the control panel on the air pod board at the back there.
     
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  27. hotrodmano
    Joined: May 3, 2011
    Posts: 288

    hotrodmano
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Norway

    Too much maybe ??:cool::cool::D

    [​IMG]
     
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  28. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,233

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    :eek:.............:)
     
  29. Cragrat
    Joined: Aug 11, 2017
    Posts: 40

    Cragrat
    Member

    Wow,just read it all,nice work sir..
     
  30. oldandkrusty
    Joined: Oct 8, 2002
    Posts: 2,074

    oldandkrusty
    Member

    Yep! Plus, with a cut that drastic, it makes the ass-end look fat and out of proportion. But, that's just my opinion.
     
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