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Projects 49 Hudson Kustom

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by KustomKreeps, Apr 6, 2017.

  1. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Question for you all out there.
    Kaiser over riders. Thinking 1953.
    Whats the differences between front and back? Other than the number plate light on the rear.

    Bullets and dimensions the same?

    Yeah NZ dollar is even worse than the Aussie vs the greenback.
    I priced it out to buy one in NZ then rebuild. no porting etc and it was going to be up around 10k NZ.
    For about the same price I was able to land the above engine in NZ.
    I was amazed how cheap the shipping was. the engine was part of my large first order whats pictured above. Surface shipped it was $600ish dollars NZ so $400USD or $550Aus.
    GST/tax on importing cars and car parts is easy over here to work out. a flat %15 fee.
    The engine dress up crap cost more than the intake and carbs combined ><

    Im keeping costs break down of my build and can look into the pricing further if you like.
     
  2. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Ass end is pretty much done!
    Well the hard parts any way.

    Full ridetech 4Link tacked in and Moser housing in place.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Useing HQ 8000 series Shockwaves from Ridetech at the back. The mounting brackets have three height settings.
    [​IMG]

    All welded in and a quick coat of black. This is shown at the lowest height.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    once the skirts and rocker panels are on its going to look pretty good on the ground at this low height.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Guess i will do a bit of a write up of whats going on gear wise back there. Whats in and still to be put in sitting in boxes.
    Talked about the Ridetech 4Link but im also using the before mentioned Shockwave airbags from the same brand.
    For those not in the know click here to check them out with all the fancy videos and marketing guff. Basically they are air bags that mount like a coil over but with air shocks with 26 tuneable rebound clicks.
    The company was great to deal with and extremely helpful.
    Another company who had exceptional service was Moser Engineering. Drag racing heritage & brand so built to withstand alot of abuse. the guys build and race the kit they build. Website here.
    Man i feel sorry for Brian Miles as he steered me through the process of ordering the custom 9' rear end.
    A million emails, measurements, re-measurements latter we got it sorted.
    • Bare classic looking Ford 9" Housing made to my measurements. (2inch narrower than stock Hudson)
    • Moser axles w/bearing package 5x4 bolt pattern with screw in studs.
    • Moser perf nodular case.
    • Trac Loc posi 31 spline.
    • Nodular support.
    • 1350 Pinion yoke - steel
    • gearing at 3.50
    • fill & drain plugs.
    • Wilwood breaks i will cover when i get to installing.
    Should last me well.

    So next step is taking it down off the rotisserie and sorting the front end. It will be back up on there a few more times yet i imagine.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2017
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  3. I was just wondering how you were getting on with this.
    Great to see some progress.
     
  4. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Off the rotisserie.
    Sitting at Air out lowest height.
    [​IMG]
    Looking at assembling front clip this week at some point.
    Then from there its fabricating the new front ends rails etc and getting it all together.
     
  5. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    With the car now off the rotisserie its time to start looking at the front end.
    As is blatantly obvious there is a slight lack of one currently. Its laying outside somewhere.
    The old Hudsons one although fine in the days of dirt track NASCAR was a little lacking for what I was after. That being an updated drive train with disk brakes, power steering, airbags and room to fit the engine & trans in. Unfortunately the heavy old setup fell short on pretty much all these points.

    Now I think I have already rambled on about the process of deciding what to do up front and so wont go on about it to much. Basically it boils down to shelving ideas such as restoring & updating the old setup, to a Fatmans front clip, to Jag IFS, to a Holden HQ-HW setup, to the current custom made setup that is made to my ride height, weight, drive style with zero bump steering, anti dive and all that guff. It also meets all the rigorous New Zealand certification requirements.

    The little progress we did on Saturday was just assembling the fronts hubs & brakes along with nailing down the desired and final air out height up front. So nothing to hardcore.

    Using a Wilwood setup. Main thoughts being I already had Wilwood at the back, they sell the complete hub & brake kit so things should fit together easy, and they should give no worries with stopping the heavy hung of iron. Also the kit should fit under most 15" wheels but would be fine with larger wheels upto say 20inch. - yes im still unsure what im using wheel wise.

    The kit used is a 6 piston, vented, drilled & slotted 12.19" rotors with ford stud ( part no. 140-10741-D ) purchased from Summit who had them on special and nicely also chucked in stainless hose brake kit for free valued at near $60 USD. Nice perk that will make it not only fit all together easier but will look sweet as well. I must admit I think Summit Racing is one of my favorite stores in the world *~*'

    [​IMG]

    Bearings and aluminum hubs all fitted together nice. packed up with high temp grease. Of course Wilwood would have to be different and used bleeping star shaped T40 & T45 headed bolts. And naturally we had to drop everything to pop down to the local engineering shop to pick up a half inch set so we could torque em up.
    Once back said newly purchased sockets firstly snapped trying to torque to a small 20 or 25lbs then twisted trying to do the next size ups 40lbs. Was more than disappointed with Teng Tools quality and they will be going back. these happened to be the only ones they had in imperial at the time.
    It will all be pulled off anyway when we go to paint everything but still... holdups and crap tools. Sure many of you know the frustration of it all.

    And whats one of my posts with out a bunch of photos...
    Setup on the welding table.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Sitting in front of the car. Drilled holes in the shock bars at air out/low height and have it set to that. This is the car at our original ride height. note the 25mm/1 inch bar up front under the car. Bleeping low and we have decided to raise the front up another inch so will have two inch clearance at this lowest point when air out. Will also give a slight rake to the car whats cool. The rear can be raised or lowed as well as its on its middle setting but we are planing to keep it there currently.
    [​IMG]

    And to give a better idea of how high it currently is.. a pic of yours truly standing next to the car. Love how the roof looks chopped but its still factory. Again note this is air out not at ride height.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Been ages since I have posted. I find at this time of year i can make an excuse out of anything to put work aside and stay inside being nice and warm.
    Winter here in New Zealand.
    My mate Flockie who is doing the brunt of the work has been pulling some long ass hours at work as well and only recently has been able to find a bit of time to get back on to the Hudson.

    Still as I last said its time to move on to the front end.
    Loaded up the Nailhead and took it to the Hudson den so measurements could be made.
    [​IMG]

    Plonked the engine up front along with the front rack just to take a look.
    [​IMG]
    Decided to raise up the low / air height a bit from 2" to 3".
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Front chassis tacked & assembled. Reid front end in position.
    [​IMG]
    Further bracing is still to be added.
    [​IMG]
    The whole front sub is bolt in/out. The four holes you see (lower right) is where the front bolts attach. The rear ones obviously are not shown. Some of the bracing will be removed as its just there to hold everything in position.
    [​IMG]
    The front clip will be in and out a few more times as things are drilled, welded and god knows what. But still the basic structure is now laid.
    [​IMG]
    Slight modification is needed to the rails for better clearances of the front rack.

    [​IMG]
    Engine will be in soon enough. Seems like there is heaps of room for it.

    So things are still progressing.
     
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  7. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Seems some of my images are not loading. Will try and fix that over the coming days.
     
  8. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,152

    Peanut 1959
    Member

    Remember not to dwell on the modern upgrades on this forum. Focus on the traditional aspects of your build and you should be a-ok. :)

    By the way, I love odd rods, so I'm looking forward to more progress!
     
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  9. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    I hear ya.

    And I love old school traditional. my Straight 8 52 Buick is all period.

    I guess the big NO NO for period correct on this 49 Hudson is the front rack even though i have seen enough similar setups on traditional rides. This one aspect held me up for months and months as i brought old holdens, jags and other cars then on sold them as I tried to get what I was after.

    In the end my better half has troubles with the weight of none power steering on old cars coupled in with some of the NZ roads I drive. You need good brakes on the hills where I drive. So in the end i got my front rack custom made. Not some Fatmans, flaming river MII off the shelf jobbie. Alot of measuring and maths was evolved and i learnt a heap.

    As for all the other parts. well a lot of that is wait and see. i have so much sitting in my parts room to go on this from kaiser, dodge, Cadillac, ford, studebaker, buick, moris minor, Austin, triumph, woolsley and more.
    im just on mechanical side of things at the moment. stopped and help enough guys who have great looking cars but they are broken down on the side of the road due to simple mechanical.
    saying this i have been there my self with blown C6 transmissions, and "bomb proof" 9inch rear ends that gave way far from home.

    But yeah thanks for the feed back and for keeping me honest.

    Alex

    EDIT
    This Thread has been checked by Super Moderators as of 04/16/2018 to comply with HAMB rules.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2018
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  10. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,008

    koolkemp
    Member

    I really love what you are doing with your Hudson! When you first described it I was kinda skeptical but you showed me! I love how you are still " respecting" the soul of that solid old car by not hacking the shit out of it , but making what I know will be an incredible road car with vintage nailhead power and it has 4 door too! Looking forward to seeing your progress.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  11. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    thanks man.
     
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  12. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

  13. Were planning on celebrating our 20th anniversary in NZ in 2019. I've got to look you up while we're there!

    Sent from my A520L using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  14. Barn Find
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 2,321

    Barn Find
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Missouri

    Impressive progress on the old step-down!
     
  15. hudson48
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,954

    hudson48
    Member

    I mentioned earlier that I would get some photos for you of the skirts on my 48 and the brackets we used. The car is having some maintenance done and skirts will be off so pictures coming. Also I think my car man Lindsay has the moulds and get make a set if you like them.
     
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  16. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,090

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I personately think a lot of people spend a whole lot of $$$$$$$ on Mercurys to make them look like Step Down Hudsons. Like your build. Frank
     
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  17. hudson48
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,954

    hudson48
    Member

    Are you looking at a chop. If so I have extra windscreens that we used for my Hudson. One piece,curved and tinted.
    You would need to modify the opening to allow for the curve but seeing your work already I don't think that would be a problem. Attached a picture. Shipping would have to be done very well for protection. $550 plus shipping. P1030931 (Medium).JPG
     
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  18. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    hey guys

    thanks for the feedback and comments.

    Anyone into obsolete iron and all things speed are welcome here.

    Not currently looking at a chop. and to tell the truth i kinda dig the split window screen.
    think i would rather chop my 52 Buick.
    but ya flick up some pics of those skirts would be keen to take a look.

    Lately I have been doing a lot of electrolysis rust removal of old chrome parts and stuff i plan to use for cores.
    For those who have never done it before it works well and is super easy. 5 or 10 mins to setup and leave over night.

    Alex
     
  19. Overnight as opposed to weeks and stink from molasses sounds great.
    I've never used electrolysis, but it sounds more friendly and faster than my use of molasses.
     
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  20. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Yeah i forgot to take before photos or I would of popped up some before and after.
    but a quick youtube search will show the process.
    Basically a plastic tub full of water and a bit of washing powder/Sodium carbonate to help conduct the power.
    some scrap sacrificial steal to attract the rust attached to the positive.
    your part/s attached to the negative.
    I used a big old 60s slot car controller but a battery charger will do the same thing.

    then leave it to bubble away. the bubbles are hydrogen split from the water so it needs to be done in a ventilated area. of and don't use stainless steal as the by product is some toxic crap you really don't want to mess with.
     
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  21. Lime55
    Joined: Sep 12, 2016
    Posts: 1

    Lime55

    This is going to be a sick ride when your done... '49 Hudson has been one of my dream builds. Keep up the good work.
     
  22. Big Jon
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 146

    Big Jon
    Member

    mate , good work
     
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  23. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Hey Thanks man. I really need to do an update.
    But its all just positioning the engine, working out a cross brace and sorting the cooling. Nothing to amazing.
     
  24. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    Things are looking good.

    Surgery was required & the firewall was cut up a lil bit. This has meant the engine could be brought back a bit whats solved a raft of issues.
    • Clearances for PS rack hose connections solved. It was right up against the sump. But now we have ample room.
    • Able to bring the engine into the center more. Its now only slightly offset by about 20mil.
    • Engine mounts will work way better.
    • Able to get the carbs to the ideal flat positioning as it was on a bit of an angle.
    • Positioning for bracing to join the two sides of the rails will be better. Being able to go under the engine in a bolt in set up.
    • How the trans will sit along with the two piece drive shaft will be way better and pretty much flat whilst not having to modify the floor pan other than maybe slightly at the very front.
    • The distributor will be hidden more. I wanted wires out of sight as much as possible so this suits me. Being a pertronix unit I shouldn't need to get to it much but if needs be will still be able to with out to much hassles.
    • Weight and center of gravity move a bit more back behind the front wheels instead of over them.
    • better clearances for sump.

    Doing all this means we may have a heap of room up front. Not what I really want but we will have to wait and see how it all looks with the alt, PS pump, radiator and fans. the custom fan shroud I was envisioning may need to be bigger than I was thinking to help fill the gap.
    Time will tell. once I have the panels on & rad in.

    Speaking of the radiator. i have decided to keep the original Hudson radiator. Its getting re-cored by a local shop Timaru Radiator Repairs. Russell the guy in charge is a top man and been bloody helpful with some great input. Gave options for different cores etc for the old four core copper rad that included different row spacing etc.
    Since the tanks are off etc im getting him to do a few other modifications. moving the bottom outlet to the other side to match the Nailheads inlet then shifting the radiators top inlet to the center to match the Nailheads centrally mounted thermostat. Thinking of using a flexy hose to give it that vintage look you see in all the old 50's and 60s mags. Plus the ribbing will go with the fins on the engine.
    Since its not a great idea to have the filler at the same point as the inlet due to pressure etc im getting it moved to one side on the top but im also getting a dummy one added to the opposite side. This is merely to please my OCD nature. when im standing with the hood up looking down at the engine I want to see the top hose running center rad to center engine then two caps to add balance on either side. My train of thought was with just the one to one side it would be a bit lopsided for the look im after. The dummy will also have a dummy overflow pipe just to keep it symmetrical. OCD much? /twitch
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    A slight notching is needed on the chassis rail above for the steering arm.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The engine mounts minus the side supports shown. Along with PS hose clearance.
    [​IMG]
    Once the trans is lifted slightly and bolted up it will get the carbs flat along with increasing clearances around the racks hose fittings & rocker covers. Hard to tell from that photo but its looking like very little if any modifications will be required to the floor pan. Will pop it in soon to have a look. Should still be nice and tucked up even at air out.
    [​IMG]
    A look at the old Hudson rad and where everything is being shifted to.
     
  25. Bobberash
    Joined: Aug 15, 2011
    Posts: 56

    Bobberash
    Member
    from Brisbane

    I'd be real interested in purchasing a pair of skirts as well, ( I have a pair of bare nailhead "heads" going unused if they can help you anyway, I have no plans for them )
     
  26. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Front end is all tacked up and sitting on its wheels!

    Happy times.
    Been some time since it has been rolling and its a good feeling seeing it all together upfront again.

    Air out its sitting pretty much where we wanted it. If you enlarge the above pic you will see the trans cross member is bleeping low. have a couple of inch clearance at this point air out. Ride height is about 2.5 inch higher so say 100mm or 110mm or so.

    Engine is offset 20mm to get clearance for the PS pump. Not really noticeable even when you are told.
    [​IMG]
    If you have been twisted enough to follow along with the progress of the build then you know the rear ends shockwave airbags mounts are adjustable. At the moment is in the middle setting. May bring it up to the highest setting. I do love that rake but the extra inch at the back will help level the carbs a bit along with all the other obvious benefits. Time will tell.

    [​IMG]
    Cross support and trans mount are all made up. Folded top hat with a flat bottom similar to the original Hudson braces.
    [​IMG]
    Bolt in for ease of access if in the future we ever need to do work under there. Front brace helps for body flex etc.
    [​IMG]
    Pic above gives a better idea of how low the braces are. Just lower than the trans pan to help protect it a bit with luck. You can also see eight (4 per side) front access holes to the bolts that let you remove the whole front clip. The whole idea with all this is ease of maintenance for future work.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Next is taking out the engine. Welding up everything. Brace up some bits with some gazeting. Notching the front rails for bit more clearance on the steering arms. Drilling the panels holes and ya ... golden. Oh and trim those long ass rails and add the rads front brace. Sigh list goes on.

    And talking about panels...
    [​IMG]
    Flockie held them in place as i took a gander. Instant grin when I steeped back to have a look.
    [​IMG]
    We did this not only just to see how it would look but to check the tire clearance as there was a bit of concern the inner guard my hit the tire air out. Nope it was fine with heaps of room. You can see how much longer the chassis rails are as well. Easier to make em shorter than longer was the idea.

    And talking of Flockie who is doing the welding, math and all the hard stuff at the moment for me.... BAM
    [​IMG]
    Looking pretty happy with him self and rightly so. He has done some great work.
    Go like him on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/flockieschassis/

    Oh and for a laugh check out my Buick gravel track fun vid on youtube here.
     
  27. Bobberash
    Joined: Aug 15, 2011
    Posts: 56

    Bobberash
    Member
    from Brisbane

    Looking fantastic ,amazing craftsmanship. I have been following your build and believe I am going to be stealing your rear end set (best form of flattery, stealing is)

    Bout to do the chop on mine. We are just building the jig for the pre cut torsion testing.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 9,503

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Love the frame work you have done on the Hudson, front and rear. Are you planning to install the diagonal braces that run from the firewall to the frame rails?

    Ray
     
  29. KustomKreeps
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 296

    KustomKreeps
    Member

    They dont really add much in bracing. Original are mounted on rubber pads so kinda forfit much in the way of bracing. Main purpose of them was to provide an attachment point for the inner guards along with a place for the horns to mount.
    I dont really want them - just more clutter but I plan to clean up the original ones anyway as it seems easier than figuring out new ways to mount the inner guards.

    Bobberrash you got a build thread I somehow missed? Love to see the chop.
     
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  30. Bobberash
    Joined: Aug 15, 2011
    Posts: 56

    Bobberash
    Member
    from Brisbane

    No mate you haven't missed a thread, once the jig is done then we will be doing the chop. Will start a thread then
     
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