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Projects 49 Custom Sedan build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by NRErickson_84, May 15, 2014.

  1. DadsBlueFord
    Joined: Oct 2, 2011
    Posts: 472

    DadsBlueFord
    Member
    from Hayden, ID

    You were doing this at a class? Man, I wish there was something like that around here.
     
  2. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Yes. I have been in the street rod class at Wyotech. After the military I knew I wasn't going to be able to be in a regular class. I've always been mechanically inclined so I came here to learn how to do it. I've watched guys like Bryan Fuller, Chip Foose, and Jimmy Shine shape metal and knew I could do it. This is my first attempt at my own custom.


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  3. luckythirteenagogo
    Joined: Dec 28, 2012
    Posts: 1,246

    luckythirteenagogo
    Member

    Well for doing all of this in school and learning as you went, I'd put you at the top of the class. Your car looks great, and I love the roofline. I have a 50 four door, and have been playing with the idea of a chop. Builds like yours just keep pushing me closer. Keep us posted on your progress, and thanks you for your service.

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  4. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    It was pretty scary because I bought that car to chop it. It was a runner too but after the door tops came off it was just business. I had a lot of fun learning the steps and really making this car my own. Now I can say that I have pretty much modified everything from the belt line and up.


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  5. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Hey all. I am considering breaking my mold of purest traditional builds. What rear end and drivetrain set ups work well with a shoebox? I want to keep the flattie for now but I'm considering an s10 5 speed and rear end. I've been told the rear end will give me more clearance for wheels. I've also considered a ford 8.8. Has anyone done these conversions? Suggestions are greatly appreciated.


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  6. Texas62
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 22

    Texas62
    Member
    from Tejas

    I know some have used the maverick rear end. Others the s10. I have the s10 rear end but. I have yet to get her on the road ....

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    Attached Files:

  7. Alot of guys running 5 spds. A maveric rear is near bolt in
     
  8. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Are you running airbags or just lowering blocks. the car looks good.
     
  9. Jimbo17
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,585

    Jimbo17
    Member

    Classic Old Skool work done by a true master craftsman.

    Your work speaks for itself and really shows off your talent.

    Just my opinion
     
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  10. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Tex, how was the install on the kit. I'm kicking the idea of doing that one myself.
    Jimbo, thanks man that really means a lot. I want to do my best to pay homage to guys like Bill Hines, Alexander Bros, Sam And George Barris. These guys learned metalwork on their own mostly. I'm fortunately afforded the opportunity to learn from instructors(and a YouTube video very now and again).


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  11. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Thanks tex. It looks like it might be worth the time saved instead of fabricating the notch kit. Did you get the taildragger kit that came with the airbags and brackets? I would have to fab wheel wells anyway with the more narrow rear end i would think. Plus I have some cancer at the bottom of the spare tire well. I was just going to eliminate it all together. There isn't much that scares me anymore now that i've cut a roof off of a perfectly good car. i've even considered getting a crown vic chassis and shortening, and narrowing it.
     
  12. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    It's been a while since the last time I posted something. Not much progress on the car. Mainly because I didn't have a place to work on it. I'm going through the collision class at school and have immediately realized that general collision work is not what I want to do for the rest of my life. Moved the car to another garage that I can get some work done after school. Here is the trip. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406412330.983585.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406412351.985363.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406412363.283590.jpg


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  13. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Ok so I have pretty much finished all the welds on the roof and deck. Lots of tack welds and a lot more grinding. Tacked in the b pillar too for placement. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406925208.502069.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406925266.818741.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406925286.286294.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406925361.313610.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1406925401.923361.jpg


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  14. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    I'm still debating on keeping the smokers window or just making the front glass a solid piece. Any suggestions?


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  15. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,657

    Peanut 1959
    Member

    If you aren't running A/C, you'll miss those vent windows!
     
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  16. Eric H
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 962

    Eric H
    Member

    I would have to say keep the windows. They look strange without them and they will cool you of in the summer. It is well worth the extra work.
     
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  17. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Ok so I have decided to keep the tilt glass in the front. Thanks for the input. I checked the look with 2 inch tape and it really spaces the front out nicely. I have made progress on the drivers side b pillar and I'm pretty sure that it's going to stay that way. Now I need to duplicate it for the driver side. Finished all the welding in the rear of the roof and installed 4 inch lowering blocks in the rear. Looks sweet. I'm going to have to figure out the rear wheel wells. I have to air out the tires just to get them under there. Here is a picture. Thanks for reading. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1407190213.327527.jpg


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  18. Eric H
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 962

    Eric H
    Member

     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2014
  19. Man oh man, I want to quit my job and come play in the Wyotech playground. Looks like a great place to work/play/learn.

    Shoebox is looking good. Glad you're keeping the vent windows, solid front door glass is more of a street rod thing.
     
  20. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    So I've pretty much finished the pillars and I experimented with the front springs. I cut 1.5 coils out of them to see the look of lowering three inches. It looks good but I think the car sat on a hill for a while. The whole car sags on the drivers side. It's not much but now that it's lowered it really stands out. I have aero star springs and rear shocks on the way. I know that I need front shocks and all the bushings for the front and probably rear. Anyone else run into this issue?

    How was the process of de arching the leaf springs?


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  21. grego31
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 447

    grego31
    Member
    from Sac, CA

    Most sag, just a byproduct from years of use. Airing out the rear tires to get them in and out is pretty much standard for lowered shoebox's. Go real low and you damn near have to disassemble the rear springs and such just to get it out. If you have a flat on the side of the road, you better have a tow truck get it, expect to be there for awhile with lots of tools to get it out or drive it till the wheel falls out! Find a space saver spare so if you get a flat, you don't have to worry about airing down the flat tire but air down then airing up a full size spare could present a problem unless you have air onboard. The space saver is skinny enough to slip in there and get you where you need to go.
    Good looking chop and nice work, keep it up! The aero springs will help but you might have to cut some coils to get it to the ride height you want. Only drops it 2" from stock. Keep an eye on the inner fenders, they hit the upper control arms when going low and make a lot of racket when hitting bumps if not properly clearanced. You'll also need some low profile bump stops for the front, the control arms get real close to the frame real quick when you lower it.
     
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  22. San_Jose_Speed_&_Chrome
    Joined: Jan 22, 2014
    Posts: 43

    San_Jose_Speed_&_Chrome
    Member

    Hey this is Rick from Gambino Kustoms. You will need to move the wheel wells up if you want it too lay out, or even get too terribly low, also when you bag the front, your going to have to work on the firewall as with larger tires and laying out your going to find that the tires will hit the firewall. Any questions or information you need give us a call and we will help with what ever we can 408 479 4812

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  23. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,994

    daddio211
    Member

    Simple trick for changing rear tires:

    After you've lifted the car with a jack, place a second jack between the axle and the frame to push the wheel down.
     
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  24. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,830

    chaddilac
    Member

    I'll hold your beer daddio and you can show us!


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  25. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Thanks for all the advice. Rick really admire the cars coming out of Gambinos. Awesome stuff. It's my hopes to work at a shop like yours. Thanks. I just got 20 lbs of lead (free) for some of the body work. I have the inside of the b pillars to finish and the door tops. Then it's on to finishing the drip rails and the peaks on the rear quarters.


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  26. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    Went to a swap meet on Sunday and picked up a set of 52 Chrysler Windsor caps ( pretty sure on the year). They look good on the car. She's screaming for wide whites now! Small things are getting done now. Found some bad body work so I'm fixing that. Trying to get the important stuff done for the winter. Glass is going to be a priority as well. The original rear windows do not fit the opening so now I must make templates and have some custom made. Also I need to fabricate channels for them to sit in now that I'm going to eliminate the rear regulators. The whole car is getting a skim coat of filler to make her straight after the lead work is complete. I will be attacking the hood as well. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1409183430.152193.jpg


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  27. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    So for the past two days I have been finishing up the b pillars. I made a template for the door tops and got the drivers side tacked in. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1410346754.382749.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1410346766.313133.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1410346777.433042.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1410346824.547143.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1410346837.433487.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1410346856.176192.jpg


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  28. very nice work, looks great, I vote for a stock grille.
     
  29. dan c
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 1,938

    dan c
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    i'd try to restore that steering wheel.
     
  30. NRErickson_84
    Joined: Apr 1, 2014
    Posts: 81

    NRErickson_84
    Member

    I've been looking for an nos or repro horn ring. I know Eastwood sells a repair kit for the plastic. I'm going to have to get a smaller diameter wheel as it is. The top of the steering wheel is right in the middle of my view. If anyone knows of a horn ring I'm interested.


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