okay, so i've decided to go the mustang 2 route on my 54 chevy sedan. i know i've heard of companies making a bolt in set-up, but i don't know the names of any of those companies. does anybody know of any? is there any truth to the old rumor that the stock frames are prone to tearing if you weld in a crossmember? who all offers weld in kits? any help or guidance would be of great help. thanks.
before anyone else gets on here iam gonnna tell you one thing use the search option!!!! there is a whole lot of info on that already all you have to do is search!
^ He's right. I'm using a Jim Meyers racing setup, but only because I got it cheap from a friend. Goes in easy though, total bolt in. http://www.jimmeyerracing.com/ifs9a.html
Here is the Chassis Engineering set up article. http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com...sis_engineering_ifs_kit_1949_chevy/index.html
okay, it's late and i'm a little lazy. i spent a little more time and checked the search a little harder, and found some good stuff. my main thought is what's out there, and what have people used on their cars. just cause a company has a good price doesn't mean it's a good product. i've looked at the jimmeyer racing setup, but paying 4k for a front suspension on a car i paid 200.00 for doesn't make sense to me, OR MY WIFE!!
Do your research. Find out which ones set the geometry even half assed close to way Ford intended. I built my own copying an original MII croosmember set 5 inches higher into the rails than the Chevy spindle centre line had been. Mainly because I can, but also because I'm cheap, but also because I've had the experience of installing so-called pro-kits such as TCI only to find out that anti-dive, caster, camber, and pivot centres are manipulated so far as to make things convenient. And when you call the tech line for clarification, the guy patronizes me for asking the really good questions but in his own defence of a bad kit says the MII suspension by design is very forgiving of variances in the above named steering/suspension concepts.
For what it's worth i've installed 5 TCI front ends on trucks and cars and have had good luck with all.. On cars the lower cross member bolts on and the upper hats weld on, as for trucks you have to weld on both upper and lower pieces but still not that hard..
Then buy a $500 dead 80s Jag XJ sedan and use the front end from that on it. Part out the Jag and sell the shell for scrap and maybe you'll even come out ahead. Or just stick with the stock front end for the time being and try to deal. I know you can redo the stock brakes for about $125 or so depending on where you source the parts.
I used a Chassis Engineering set up and its way simple..bolts in pretty much perfectly and sets the car up rite with either bags or none, only real issue was running a mechanical fuel pump, I had to relieve the top hat to make some room for pump. Theres a bunch of front end sets up that work well..good luck!
I you are looking to save money just rebuild the stock suspension. You can still get plenty low with some modified stock parts.
I'm using a 84-85 Corvette with coil overs and a cradle/cross member from Flat Out Engineering It is neater cleaner uses no struts has a power rack. The front end can be gotten for around $500. and the craddle from Flat Out was $725. Oh its in my 57 Chevy with a Old/Pont rear No Ford stuff here. Pat
Who has Power steering on their bolt in front ends? I really like the CE front end, but I don't think you can get PS on it.
I'd say stick with the stock, and embellish a bit. You can go low and keep it original, drop spindles, some springs, some know how and bam! she all dressed up.
i don't think keeping the stock setup will work. i'm putting a 348/th400 setup in it, and with the engine/trans sitting in the frame rails, the suspension hits the oil pan. i thought about modifying the pan, but figured the new suspension would be nice for modern day traffic. this won't be my last 53-54, so there will be plenty of future projects to leave stock. thanks for all the info so far.
Nope, me either, and it wouldn't be on mine at that price either, there's NO WAY it's worth that price. Like I said, I got a deal that was actually less than the rebuild and upgrades I was gonna do to the stock one.
The main thing I didn't like about the Jim Myer setup was how he bolts the lower control arms to the crossmember with those little set screws on the ends of the shaft. On his website he recommends loctite , but come on! To top that I don't see how you could keep it greased without taking it apart. The tie rod ends are heim joints too,aren't they? Would be fine for a race car, but something you might drive a lot seems a little high maintenance.
Yep, I agree. For what he's charging I can't see who would buy them. But I did the math and the stock front end needed a lot, talk about sticker shock! My buddy had this one and it was cheaper than the parts, plus it added power steering and discs, since it was my daughters car I thought that was a big plus.
If you are needing to spend your peso's carefully I'd look hard at Rustynewyorkers suggestion. The XJ6 , XJ12 ,XJS front suspension is a VERY easy swap under your chev. Goes in as a complete crossmember/subframe and has power rack already mounted etc . .
I put a completely stock mustang II under a 48 chevy, almost same type frames for 50 bucks. It take alot more time, plus making a jig to know where to cut it, but it slide on after removing the front crossmember and I welded it all up. No problems, just lots of brain sweat and measuring and making the strut brackets.
I put a completely stock mustang II under a 50 chevy, same frames for 200 bucks. <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Ted/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <woNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <o></o> Rebuilt changed to after market springs, There is a lot of extra work and planning but they work out well, this one has been done for more than 12 years and everything work well. <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o>
A thread I saved to my computer: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356519 I used new 'stock" components for my 53, dropped uprights and steering arms, I also put front disc brakes on it too. The car is LOW, and hits on everything, and I do mean everything. Next time, I am doing air ride. Please forgive the blurry picture:
Here's a setup that might work for you. 93-2003 camaro/trans am front end. I've got one in my 1966 ford f100 p/u. I don't know how wide your frame is ,the ford frame is right at 34 inches. With mid 80s stock camaro mags. outside to outside is about 71 inches w/p195/60/15" tires.I had to fab. up strut towers w/ plate steel and change springs using 1990's ford f150 springs . These cars are in most salvage yards ,and I paid $200 for complete assy. I've got about 10,000 miles and 2 years on mine,and its my daily driver. good luck! Truckerdaddy66,New Caney,Tx.
The Jalopy Journal
