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Technical 48 Ford Sedan Reversing the Front Spring

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rodknocker, May 1, 2016.

  1. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,267

    rodknocker

    bef.jpg aft.jpg I know there are a few threads on this already, but I thought I'd show you the process with one of those HF "pipe" benders, also a few tips along the way. Up top are before and after pics.
    1. If you plan on doing this, and you don't know the last time the shackle and shock bushings were replaced, order them before you start, it'll save you time, and headache when you try to get the spring out and the bushings crumble apart, they also make full shackle kits as well, mine were in decent shape. Also order the center leaf spring aligning bolt.
    2. After you order the bushings go out under your car and spray the panhard bar nuts, cross member u-bolt nuts, shackle nuts and upper shock nuts with penetrating oil, again headache saver.
    3. Make sure you jack your car up nice and high( I didn't go high enough the first time, had to put stuff back together to do it so it doesn't fight you), support the frame with quality jack stands( a lot of donkeys dying around here lately because they're not using them) Put your jack under the front axle for support.
    4. Remove the panhard bar, loosen the shackle bolts, loosen the upper shock bolts, then loosen the 4 cross member u-bolt nuts. Now lower your jack and your front spring should start to drop out of your cross member. Keep watch over your brake line hoses as you drop the axle to make sure you don't stress them too much, mine had enough length to still have a little play in them but it was close.
    5. Now take the shackles out, and the spring will be free,( there is no tension on a 48 sedan, so no worries, but it is heavy, I know some other years need a spring stretcher so be careful) I fought with my shackle bushings and destroyed them, see line 1. I put my spring in a vise, put a good size "C" clamp around the spring pack, and removed the aligning bolt. Slowly loosen the clamp, and your leaf's are now free. You need to remove the leaf that wraps around the last leaf.
    6. Now if you did your research about doing this you now know you don't reverse the eyelets, you re-arch the whole spring in the opposite direction. For this I used a HF "pipe" bender. I removed the rollers, and put the 1" die in (whichever one is closest to the width of your spring)
    7. Lay your spring on a bench, mark the outline, and take a measurement of the center of the eyelets.
    8. Mark your spring in 2" intervals from end to end. I also zip tied the frame of the bender together to keep the spring centered while bending. I started at one end of the spring and worked to the other. I counted the pumps of the jack each time and added a couple more pumps with each pass I made. I didn't want to break the spring so I ended up making about 8 passes, which is probably excessive, but my labor is cheaper than a new spring.
    revers1.jpg revers2.jpg revers3.jpg revers4.jpg revers5.jpg revers6.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2016

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