I saw your add it doesn't look like you have much I need (mainly front end sheet metal and or trim). Thanks though. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Well finally got back in the garage after a hectic week of work last week and going out of town for the Mid-Ohio Vintage GranPrix last weekend. I immediately located the grinding noise in the new disc set-up. I installed the drivers side inner pad backward. ..as in pad steel on steel rotor surface! Fortunately I only drove the car to the stop sign and back. I'll have to get the rotor turned but I'm gonna drive it a little around town to make sure it doesn't have any other major issues. I seems to be stopping good but the pedal is so soft it feels like my new cars! At about 30mph if I stab it hard it will lock up the brakes. Not sure if its the front or rears yet. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Took it out & put a few miles on it...went pretty well...felt great to get it out again! Had to stop for a photo op at a family friends old gas station. They just run fuel oil now but I grew up hanging out in this station its been in their family nearly 100 years! You should see some of the old gas stuff he's got! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Took the family to my buddies farm for a little 4th of July celebration and I couldnt resist a photo shoot! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I also tried to look into adjusting my steering gear box to take some of the excessive slop out but I couldnt find a set screw on top of the box. It doesnt help that the exhaust manifold is less than a quarter inch from the box. I could barely get a socket on the bolt and it wouldnt budge but I don't understand how I can adjust it even when I do get it loose. Any suggestions would be great! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
So after a little research I have determined that the "bolt" I can see is actually a cap for the set screw so now to figure out how to remove the cap!
Be REAL careful trying to adjust the slop out of the steering wheel. Typically the wear is in the most common area of gear actuation and if you try to adjust the gear mesh to reduce the slop there is a real possibility that you'll move beyond that area into less worn areas. This can bind the gears in a tight turn, making it difficult if not impossible to steer. On a scale of 1 to 10, this situation creates a pucker factor of about 12. Been there, done that, a definite "skidmarks in the skivvies" moment.
LOL..Thanks Eli. I've been reading about it on the P-15 website, and I've been told that can be a problem, so we'll see. I'm planning on the Cavilear R&P upgrade down the road, so we'll see what happens!
Well the cap isn't interested in coming off for the steering box lssh adjustments! I came to this conclusion after snapping a swivel extension, a standard 3/8" swivel, and a 1/2" ratchet! The swivel was made in China junk, but the ratchet was an older Craftsman & the swivel extension was a Kobalt! I think I'm going to have to cut a hole in the fender well to get my 1/2" ratchet through there to get on it without a swivel or extension on it. Or take off the drivers side exhaust manifold! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Drove er to work today and just for giggles I checked the oil at the ga s station this morning. Nice & clear...well what's that smell? Oh no big deal its gas in the oil! F'n GREAT! I'm certain its from my shitty carb. So I'll probably park it till I manage to rebuild my carb. Its never been quite right since I traded for it and I probably have the timing jacked up too because of it! I was planning on driving it to work for a while to get some miles on it, but I reall dont want to wipe the bearings so I'll just hold off! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Well you know I don't know why I'd be surprised I build my junk on a super tight budget so it usually means build it, wait for it to fail then build it again! I can honestly say there isn't 1 new part (except my brake parts) on my car so I'm getting an education in rebuilding parts one at a time! I've been pretty bummed about missing every show or cruise in I wanted to hit yhis year and this weekend is Goodguys in Columbus and Midnight Mass in Detroit, and I'm at home working on my junk! But I try to enjoy the building process because this is the definition of BUILT NOT BOUGHT! Besides these are all valuable lessons for the day the car gets totally blown apart and built to a "finished" level! For now its all about the little victories. I'll add a shot of my baby girl and my lil man from a local show we hit up this morning on the way to the grocery store...now to go find a Holley rebuild kit! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Well you know I don't know why I'd be surprised I build my junk on a super tight budget so it usually means build it, wait for it to fail then build it again! I can honestly say there isn't 1 new part (except my brake parts) on my car so I'm getting an education in rebuilding parts one at a time! I've been pretty bummed about missing every show or cruise in I wanted to hit yhis year and this weekend is Goodguys in Columbus and Midnight Mass in Detroit, and I'm at home working on my junk! But I try to enjoy the building process because this is the definition of BUILT NOT BOUGHT! Besides these are all valuable lessons for the day the car gets totally blown apart and built to a "finished" level! For now its all about the little victories. I'll add a shot of my baby girl and my lil man from a local show we hit up this morning on the way to the grocery store...now to go find a Holley rebuild kit! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
After pulling the carb I can see raw gas in the front 2 barrels and in the intake. Looks like its pushing through after its shut off. Sounds like there are several reasons for this. I do know my fuel pressure is set at 6 psi. I'm positive there is a problem with my choke, but I'm getting a feeling theres a bigger problem with this carb, so I'll probably just go ahead and re-build the whole thing, and see what else I can find while I'm in there!
The float level is probably a little too high in the front bowl. A phenolic or wood carb spacer will help some with the fuel percolating after shut off, it will isolate the carb from some of the engine heat.
I set the float level but its entirely possible! This carb has always acted funny I had to run it way rich to get it to act normal. We'll see what happens and I probably will throw a spacer on it as well! Thanks! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
As requested, here's your car with Cragars. I'm not sure which version I like best, both would look good on your car. [/URL][/IMG]
Cool thanks Eli! I was pretty sure I didn't want the chrome but now I'm positive! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well I finally got my carb rebuild kit yesterday and put it in last night. It wasn't as bad as I thought it was gonna be and I did find a few issues. Mainly some small particulate, and the choke! The choke plate was pushed down so far it wouldn't flip back and forth. Also the electric choke assy was totally jacked up. The red choke cam on the back side was actually not even installed right side out and the internal spring wasn't even connected internally. Any way im up and wide awake 5 hours after going to bed and ready to stick that dude on the motor and now I've realized I forgot to buy oil to replace the gas filled oil I drained last week! Damnit! I'm probably gonna make a post asking if anyone has any suggestions on an additive I might want to run for a day or two to help protect my engine before I flush again. Any suggestions are welcome! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
How about pre-lubing the engine with a drill before you start it? More than likely you still have a film of oil in the necessary areas and pre-lubing will help get more oil in there. How thin was the gas-diluted oil anyway? Maybe use straight 30 wt, run the engine for an hour or so and let it set for a few days with the drain plug out, getting the most out of the pan. After you get the regular oil back in, keep an eye on your oil pressure, if it doesn't seem to be coming back up to where it was, drain the oil, drop the pan and check one lower main bearing and upper rod bearing furthest from the oil pump to look for wear or damage. More than likely you'll be okay with the oil change though.
Thank Eli...got everything back together yesterday morning but cant seem to get the timing and carb dialed in well enough to keep it running so I got frustrated pushed it back in the garage and drank some beers! Ill get back at it tonight or tomorrow... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I hope you figure it out sooner than later buddy! Get that car on the road! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I had it pretty close last night I figured out that I had adjusted the accelerator pump to come on way to fast so after that adjustment I reset the timing and dialed the AF mix back to the 1 1/2 turns and it ran well without stumbling when the throttle was cracked. But it was bouncing around like crazy, then ran like shit when I tried to drive it. I got to lookin and noticed I knocked off a big ass vacuum cap it got better then I got to thinkin about vacuum leaks and decided to check the nuts and make sure it was torqued evenly. I found that one stud was stripped so I pulled it all and I got a helicoil for it this morning. Im also thinking the carb base gasket that came with the kit wasn't helping my case so I'm goin to reuse my old carb gasket that was divided down the middle to seal off the dual plain. So we'll see what happens tonight! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Well got it all back together last night and after some more tweaking I managed to get it to idle ok and it wasn't stumbling at all when throttle was cracked open, but when I attempted to drive it it ran like total crap. Tonight I'm going to try to get my hands on a vacuum gage and go back at it. Its not happy at all when I put it in gear! I know that can be several things, so I'm trying to eliminate one at a time...what a pain in the ass. If I had some money I'm sure I could take it to a mechanic and be done with it in a hurry but I'm broke, and at this point its really bugging me!
Hi, Having a similar issue with my 305. Runs good at idle, bogs under load. Been searching with everyones help for vacc leak.... Good luck & keep posted! Mack Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
HAAAA, at this point you might even have a problem finding a carburetor mechanic. OBD2 and fuel injection have all but forced those guys into the stone age. Are your floats adjusted properly?People always overlook those. And, check to make sure your intake to head bolts are tightened and not vacuum leaking also. Good Luck !
I guess you've already tried spraying some WD40 around. I had an old triumph do that, the springs in the advance were shot. Keep up the good work.
Im going to try the spray trick. Re-check the float level for the 3rd time. And if its still off I'm going to find TDC and confirm my timing isn't a tooth off. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
