Also,don`t forget to put a small bevel on the up side of the drain hole.Got that little tip from an old time body man back in the late `50`s. Good luck.Have fun.Be safe. Leo
Corvettesander, I have just spent a very enjoyable 2 hours following your build so far from start to present. Your talent level is just unbelievable. Thank you for letting us follow along. Take care and be safe.
will do thanks this weekend i have changed something at the rear, i was not pleased with the license plate cove and cut it out. i will relocate the license plate to a bracket somewhere lower
nothing mayor going on right now but working on some small things like on the door dovetails and finished the vent door pneumatics and started with some lower interior panels the rest will be covered up by the seats
today i have finished the last interior panels, last thing i need to fabricate to finish the cab is a shroud to fill the gap between the cab and radiator, i made some measurements and now i am ready to remove cab from the chassis. Oh my measurements are in metric
today i have made the radiator shroud i have abouth a 1/2 inch of clearance between the shroud and radiator that will be closed with rubber eventualy
Very cool rad./shroud setup. I'm assuming the box in back of the lower grille will allow fresh air to pass through, under the seat?
Sander-really like your build. what did you do with the gap between the firewall(top inside ) and body ? I moved the original tin closer and then used a urethane seam filler. You have to seal this up or there is major wind noise inside the cab.
yes nothing yet but your right, it needs to be done funny thing is i was looking at it tonight when i removed all interior parts and the dash
have been working on the inner shroud to line up to the duct/tunnel so it forces tru all the collected air.
Sander, Fascinating build .... loads of innovative ideas make this the best COE build I've seen a long while. One question for you. I noticed in a number of locations that you have used what appear to be either button head bolts or large flange pop rivets to hold tin panels in place. Are those temporary .... or are they going to be used permanently? I haven't been able to zoom in sufficiently to get a good look at what those fasteners are, but do like them a lot, and see them as a good alternative to old school rivets. Keep up the great work and the photo coverage. You are teaching the rest of us a lot.
Just a thought...If it were me, I would leave the bottom of the shroud (just in front of the radiator) "off or open" so leaves, debris, or whatever, can fall off the radiator and not be trapped inside the shroud. The air will get to the radiator even without the lower portion.
We have been using this type of air duct system for years on Late Model stock cars. Close it off. Air follows the path of of least resistance like Electricity and Water. In slow speeds the air will want to go out the bottom than the more restrictive cooling fins. Add a screen across the front of the air intake to keep the debris from getting inside. Awesome work by the way.
hi for an other build (55 chevy pickup) i used the allen head bolt type, but for this one i will use slot type bolts as the look is more authentic. they are both in stainless steel i think i will just close it up and make some small drain holes for release of water and a screen in front to block debris as said by cagedruss thanks for the tip tonight i have almost finished the shroud duct work
Sander ..... Thanks for the closeups of the fasteners. I do like the idea of the authentic look of the slotted stainless cap screws. What manner of nut arrangement are you using? Some variety of captured type??
I wonder if there will be any noise from air rushing through the duct at highway speeds? Great work throughout the entire build!
Surely much less noise than original air rushing + fan running + engine running He's making the duct super smooth that will help a lot. Maybe some rubberized coating would help as well? Although that stuff is nasty, probably better to just use sound deadening material on the interior floor. Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
i am using rivet nuts it probably will make some noise but i think there will be a lot more wind noise from windshield doors rain gutters etc... i will also add sound deadening material to the floor and firewall tonight i have lift the body from the chassis again to work on the floor and air duct, most of it is still tag welded i will remove the lower sheet metal from the duct to add some beads to add some more strength and reduce resonance and then weld it back in
good progress being done on this project .... i have been looking forward to the updates .... keep up the good work =)
Excellent build accompanied by great pictures and explanations. Thanks for sharing this with us. Subscribed!
today i have been working on the air duct again. removed the lower sheet metal from the duct and made a cover over the floor braces that pass tru the duct, to eliminate any wind noise comming from that part at least by adding the cover and to avoid getting to much air flow restriction, i have made a curve to the lower sheet metal plate. and made some drain holes
finished all welding and sheetmetal work on the cab today, made a cart to roll the cab around for block sanding and primer/paint etc. now i will get to some detail work, like changing the look of the modern gas pedal made a stainles steel pedal
I've really enjoyed following along on your build and I like seeing how you solve various issues and engineer solutions. I do have one question, did you use a weld through primer inside the air duct? Oh, one other thing, how does moving the engine back affect the designs of the chassis? I mean, the factory designed the dynamics of the chassis to work with the engine situated up front over the suspension so I was just curious if moving it back would have any postivie or negative affects. Sorry if that's a stupid question. Keep up the great work!
i am using electrolytically zinc coated sheetmetal (Zincor) its ideal for closed or boxed aplications its only minor disadvantage is that its a bit tougher to form . i dont know if this type op sheetmetal is available it he Usa ? the chassis is strong enough to have engine behind the cab. and i think the weight distribution is close to what the chevy 3500 originaly was, with the cab in the location where the engine previously was.
I installed a 5 ton building a/c a few years ago and the ducting that came with it look like what you describe. Metal roofing also uses this a lot. It can be out in the weather for a few decades without rusting. There is also aluminum coating this is usually used for exhaust systems. Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
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