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Projects '47 Dodge D25 Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by zon, Feb 8, 2010.

  1. zon
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 21

    zon
    Member
    from Abbotsford

    Greetings from Canada.
    I am working on a '47 Canadian Dodge D25 which currently has a Flathead 6 in it with a 3-in-the-tree. I have an '85 Fifth Ave with a 318, 904 and 8 1/4" that I'd like to transplant. (I want to keep the Flathead and Trans for a future 30's Hot Rod Project.)
    The first project is the floor. I've been able to source new Rockers, but no floor panels, so I am just going to pick away at it. The first question that comes to mind though is whether I should lift the body off the frame and do the chassis build first, then the body to fit, or the body first?
    I know that the floor is what holds the body straight and square, but I fear I am going to go to a lot of effort in rebuilding the floor and then have to chop it up anyway or even redesign.

    Any help in any way is greatly appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,388

    George
    Member

    You may have to make minor changes for tranny clearance in the tranny hump, other than that you should be fine. You'll need a rear sump pan, oil pick up, dipstick & stick tube & offset the 318 1" to the pass. side.
     
  3. zon
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 21

    zon
    Member
    from Abbotsford

    I apprecaite the input.

    Does anyone know how to safely remove a Coil Spring?
    The current springs on my '47 do not allow the use of a Spring Compressor to be inserted from the bottom to the inside. The hole is too small.
     
  4. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,388

    George
    Member

    There are a load of threads on how to do 41-54 Dodge/Plymouths. The things in those threads are relevant to your project. 46-48 are D24s, unless Canadians got a 25.
     

  5. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    The spring doesn't require a compressor. Thee was a thread on the P15 D25 board regarding changing front springs. You might want to register there as there are quite a few members with canadian made 40's mopars. The problem with all of them is steering box interference. that can be addressed with the use of the style of maifolds the exit up and over the ports, and by offsetting the engine to the pass side by 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Hardly noticable when finished and mopar even did it on several later models.

    Lotta good info on the P15 D24 board and site, here is the how to on the springs

    http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=1992&highlight=front+spring+removal
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2010
  6. zon
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 21

    zon
    Member
    from Abbotsford

    Thank-you VERY much for the referral. Also a great site like this one.

    I've even considered putting in a rack instead of a steering box to help with the clearance issues.
    Does anyone have any experience with that?

    What about taking the entire front clip from my 5th Ave and stubbing it onto the '47 Frame?
     
  7. zon
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 21

    zon
    Member
    from Abbotsford

    In Canada, the Dodge D25 is a combination of the Dodge D24 and the Plymouth P15.
    As you can see in the pictures, the entire front end is Plymouth, including the peaked grill.
    This car is going to be very cool when done. I can't wait to fire it up.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Lucky Devil
    Joined: Feb 4, 2010
    Posts: 13

    Lucky Devil
    Member

    As far as the floorpans go, you could probably used a 47 Plymouth patch panel due to the fact that a canadian dodge is a Plymouth body. Try these guys out. A little pricey but I hear they are quality parts.

    http://www.plymouthdoctor.com/automobile.html

    Those guys on the P15 D24 site are great people, I was a member over there first and my Plymouth is running and driving thanks to them.
     
  9. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    Some have had luck with the R and P units from center steer small GM's (cavelier/sunbird)
    Lotsa upgrades for the front end which is actually a pretty good suspension. Two easy item, Ford or Dodge pick up shock mounts to relocate the top of the shocks to the frame (makes a big difference) and from meber Charlie Ackers (www.rustyhope.com) a disc brake up grade adapter kit. There are others but charlies is economical, effective, and relatively easy. Plus he is very good about helping out with questions.
     
  10. zon
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 21

    zon
    Member
    from Abbotsford

    Thank-you for all the info.
    Here's an update.
    I have learned that my '85 Fifth Ave Front End with Torsion Bar Suspension is too wide for the '47, so I'll stick with the current suspension and do as suggested, just change the shock top mount location and upgrade the front to disc brakes. I still plan to import the entire rear-end from the 5th Ave to the '47. The width measurements seem to be the same.
    As for a Steering Rack, I'll do some research into the center steer units as suggested, although I wonder if the one from my 5th Ave would work?
    More Pics to come on the next Garage Day.
     
  11. chilly1
    Joined: Oct 24, 2009
    Posts: 550

    chilly1
    Member
    from Tacoma,Wa

    Welcome from Washington
     
  12. zon
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 21

    zon
    Member
    from Abbotsford

    Finally get back at it.
    Yesterday I started stripping the old paint. It turns out it had previously been a dark blue under the cream white.
    Found a lot of previous body work under the paint. A large hole above the gas filler neck hole and a lot of previous dent work with bondo.
    I stipped it all out though and almost got the entire drivers side done, down to bare steel.
    I'll need to skin the rear drivers side door, same as I did for the drivers door and probably the same on the other side.
    The drivers side drip rail is almost completely shot, so i'll need to put some new steel there. Funny, the one on the passenger side is perfect.
    The large spot on the trunk where previous owner body work had just flaked off is now a large round rust spot that is not coming up very well. I pulled out the grinder with a flap-disk and still can't get rid of all the black and rust. Does anybody have any ideas?
     

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