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Projects `47 Chrysler 3 window-Adding complexity.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lonestar395, May 4, 2015.

  1. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Casper50, those floor pans look good...here is your chance to improve your welding skills. You are going to need some help with the task of cutting the Colorado pieces in.
     
  2. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    2015-07-19 17.29.30.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  3. casper50
    Joined: Aug 4, 2013
    Posts: 203

    casper50
    Member
    from alaska

    After sandblasting the Colorado panels I have found some minor patching is required for them also. But not near as much as my original floor. The front extensions have arrived and look very nice. I'll try and get a photo today.
     
  4. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I have been working at getting the floors finalized, and the transmission cover is next...rust never sleeps.

    2015-07-23 17.33.49.jpg


    The area around the lower steering column will be reworked to incorporate a column mount.
     
  5. casper50
    Joined: Aug 4, 2013
    Posts: 203

    casper50
    Member
    from alaska

    late but as promised. My floorpan extension is a bit different than these at the top inside. Mine has a curve as lonestar's does. Luckily my top 4 inches is rust free so I'll just cut the top off and weld them in. Other than that the seem to be an exact fit and made very well.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    All the rusted areas are now repaired and lower column mount installed. I have substituted a `60 Pontiac Bonneville brake pedal pad

    2015-07-26 17.14.38.jpg

    I have welded captive nuts where the factory had installed nuts and bolts...surely has to be easier to assemble and dismantle in the future
    As an intermediate steering shaft, I am incorporating Borgeson components, coupled with the funky Jaguar vibration reducer and linear joint element to allow a degree of linear movement because the front end/rack is solid mounted to the frame, and the column is solid mounted to the body. there must be some range of movement there with the rubber body mounts that would stress the components to failure.
    The gear selector linkage was fabricated using a Kugel Komponent on the transmission (T-700R4)

    2015-07-29 17.21.57.jpg

    below image shows Jaguar intermediate shaft linear universal joint mounted to the rack spline.
    2015-07-29 17.22.59.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  7. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Looking to tidy-up one of the less appealing areas on the exterior, the rear fenders always looked too bulbous with a proportionately small wheel arch.
    I am trying out some wheel arch mods that will give the illusion of balance...starting with some masking tape lines.
    I originally chose to remove the rear fender spears, however they visually decrease the height of the rear fender...I have included an image of a stock 3 Window for side profile...I am thinking perhaps retain the fender spears but raise them a little, and raise the wheel arch the same amount.
    Does anyone have a suggestion here?


    2015-08-03 17.12.12.jpg


    2015-08-03 17.12.49.jpg


    Chrysler-Windsor-012-1024x681.jpg 2015-08-03 17.12.12.jpg 2015-08-03 17.12.49.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2015
  8. looking at that side view I tend to think that if you maintained the same profile as the front, and raise the fender spear 2" you'd be on the subtle but effective side of life.
    Would I be correct at thinking that currently the car will have a bit of a front down rake? (based on arch/tyre scaling, when compared with that alternative side profile). I am interested to know if you can lower the rear to put the bias back into a tail dragging stance, without any bags or notching? In my mind that Blue one would look ace if the front was 1 1/2" lower at the front, and 3" at the rear, which would still be practical, but really supporting the 'factory custom' irony.
    Cheers,
    Drewfus
     
  9. casper50
    Joined: Aug 4, 2013
    Posts: 203

    casper50
    Member
    from alaska

    Here's two that I like.
     

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  10. casper50
    Joined: Aug 4, 2013
    Posts: 203

    casper50
    Member
    from alaska

    2nd didn't make it
     

    Attached Files:

  11. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Drewfus, I plan to drop the rear 3" minimum, the front will have to wait `till I get it on its feet.
    The squared off rear wheel arch profile is what irks me visually. The examples provided by casper50 are a bold modification, and body color impacts on the severity...somewhere between the masking tape and the candy wine car is where I will cut...
     
  12. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I have never been a spats kind of Guy, however reviewing the images casper50 has put up, I can see how those wheel arch radii would make it easier to remove and fit the wheel, something that would be near impossible on the side of the road with the 275 X 60-15" tires on the 10" rims without disconnecting shocks and suspension components.
    Incorporating spats could moderate those large wheel cut-outs?
     
  13. = skirts.

    For those confused.;)
     
  14. casper50
    Joined: Aug 4, 2013
    Posts: 203

    casper50
    Member
    from alaska

    I like the curves of the bigger wheel openings over the square cut stock ones.
     
  15. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Purchased repro `41 Studebaker tail-lights from Alchemy here on the HAMB, Fabricated up some buckets to french them into the rear panel to clean up the Sticky-outy lumps the factory fitted...


    2015-08-09 12.23.41.jpg

    I am still looking for some subtle indicator lights to finish off the rear


    2015-08-09 17.11.28.jpg
     
    waynos and 1952B3b23 like this.
  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,685

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Like they were made for it. Cause they were! Stuart is going to chrome these after fabrication, so I cast them in bronze for him.

    Keep up the high-talent metal fab!
     
  17. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks for the vote of confidence, Jeff...and thanks for the timely delivery of the fine pieces for my car, you make a quality product I can be proud of.

    download.jpg
    Made in the United States
     
  18. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I have raised the rear wheel arch edge about 4" to open it up a little



    2015-08-26 14.23.01.jpg


    The L/H side of this car was damaged from impact with an Elk...the L/H rear fender was also flattened as a result, the shape was wheeled back into it. I am going to wire the edges to stiffen them, I am scratching for tire clearance also, and wheeling some stretch in them will also help to flare the edges out.


    2015-08-26 16.56.00.jpg


    2015-08-26 16.50.37.jpg
     
    Drewfus likes this.
  19. Nealswheels
    Joined: Dec 4, 2013
    Posts: 12

    Nealswheels
    Member
    from Indiana

    Love the progress! Great metal work! Subscribed
     
  20. Mudgy
    Joined: Dec 4, 2010
    Posts: 229

    Mudgy
    Member

    I'm always gobsmacked about what the E wheel can do.. in the hands of a master operator.

    Cheers, Mudgy
     
    73RR likes this.
  21. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I finished both rear fenders today...probably the easiest modification I have done on this car, and a huge win visually...

    After I trimmed the wheel arch edge to match my template, I ran a parallel scribe line to tip up the new edge for the wire, calculating 2 1/2 times the wire diameter


    2015-08-27 13.47.21.jpg


    After tipping, the wire is clamped into position and the margin is hammered over


    2015-08-27 14.25.22.jpg


    2015-08-27 10.49.40.jpg


    Before

    2015-05-09 15.19.14.jpg



    2015-08-27 12.16.18.jpg



    2015-08-27 17.27.19.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2015
  22. 41 C28
    Joined: Dec 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,770

    41 C28
    Member

    That looks good and will probably make it a little better when it comes time to remove the rear wheels.
     
  23. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia


    I was concerned at how I was going to remove the rear wheel on the roadside, figuring it was going to be Cell phone/credit card/roll back truck/workshop, however I can remove and replace the 15 X 10 rim@ 3 3/4" back space W/275-60X15 tire quite easily
     
  24. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    The missing section of the R/H 1/4 panel in the above photos has been fabricated and TIG welded in


    2015-08-28 15.36.19.jpg


    2015-08-28 17.49.23.jpg


    2015-08-28 17.49.44.jpg
     
  25. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    The front inner fenders lean onto the cylinder heads, I have removed the rusted battery tray (It will be relocated to the trunk), and pie-cut the lower shelf for clearance...


    2015-09-05 15.19.20.jpg


    2015-09-05 15.24.12.jpg


    2015-09-05 16.52.06.jpg
     

  26. I can't even remove my stock tyre with such small openings. I'm going lincoln zephyr rear quarters.


    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/My '47 3W Dodge build..960954/
    My build.
     
  27. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Are you welding them on?
     
  28. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,485

    gatz
    Member

    The Jag universal joint....does one have to take the whole steering column assembly out to get that piece? Or is the shaft able to slide down/out ?
    ...
    below image shows Jaguar intermediate shaft linear universal joint mounted to the rack spline.
     
  29. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia


    Gatz, I am able to remove one of the rack mounting bolts and loosen the other two, which allows me to rotate the rack down on its axis and the spline just separates...
     

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