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Projects `47 Chrysler 3 window-Adding complexity.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lonestar395, May 4, 2015.

  1. Not Australian laws. Each state operates differently with modified vehicles. Lonestar is obligated to do things by state regulations and procedures. In his case, NSW.
     
  2. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I have previously searched for the functionality of a Fluid Drive, and your insight is the best I have read, thank you.




    ....And here is the essence of the thread...a well built driveline using superior materials unable to provide Adrenaline.
    I have never done a burnout, but I am a spirited driver.
     
  3. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,044

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    Yes the C38 S 250.6 engine with spitfire head. The trans is the M5 , the predecessor to the similar M6 trans, sometimes referred to as a klunkomatic trans. Low and high ranges, for example you are in the car, engine running, you shift into high range, then let out the clutch, the engine does not stall evn though you have your foot on the brake.You then proceed to drive, at 15-20 mph you lift you foot off the gas pedal for a moment, the trans automatically shifts into the high range and away you go. if you need to pass a car you floor the gas and the kick drops t the lower end of high range for passing. At a stop, you can leave the clutch pedal alone and drive like an automatic, the way I described.....
     
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  4. George G
    Joined: Jun 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,274

    George G
    Member

    I had a 51 Fargo truck with a 3 speed fluid drive. Totally manual and you shifted like a normal manual tranny
    But you could stop at the lights without pushing in the clutch
     
  5. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,044

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    Hi George, suppose you could leave it in 2nd for around town driving.
    Could you leave it in 3rd and take off from a stop?
     
  6. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,252

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    I have worked on old Chryslers but never changed the rear axle. Don't recall seeing one with a 3 speed, they were all semi autos. The only Fluid Drive 3 speed I worked on was a 47 Dodge 7 passenger sedan.

    The one in the picture is definitely the self shifter.

    I wouldn't change the rear axle either but the OP seems to be Jonesing to change something and that would probably do the least harm.
     
  7. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,252

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    You could leave it in 3d and take off from a stop, even up a slight grade but in a drag race you would be beaten by a 6 year old on a tricycle. This was in a 7 passenger Dodge limo with 93HP 218 engine.

    Start in low and it wasn't so bad. For in town driving you could leave it in second and eliminate all shifting, without holding up traffic.
     
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  8. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I have decided to upgrade the driveline, there were several posts encouraging me to rebuild what I have, however I think I would be disappointed with the result.

    I have installed an Explorer third member, they are 1 3/4" narrower than the original diff., it is 3.73:1 ratio traction lock 8.8" and has the same PCD as the original, I have moved the spring saddles outboard to align with the original leaf springs.

    Still a work in progress, I have to set the pinion angle, mount the factory panhard rod bracket and trial fit the Explorer anti roll bar to see if I can incorporate that.



    IMG_4771.jpg



    IMG_4772.jpg






    IMG_4773.jpg
     
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  9. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 6,473

    flynbrian48
    Member

    The trans shown is the 4 speed "Vacu-Matic". I didn't know the model designation, only the advertised name. Our '41 Windsor sedan had that driveline, and as mentioned, it's reliable and comfortable, albeit "leisurely" in terms of acceleration. The 4 gears can't really be used like a 4 speed. If started in low range, you can either upshift in "low" range to second, then "high" range into 4th, or "low" first, up into "high", which gives 3rd gear, then 4th. Using the trans in "high" range, it shifts itself down at stops into 3rd, and you can leave it there, shifting it back into 4th once you get rolling. Our car, my first car, was comfortable at 70 mph, and would nudge 90, although I admit that now, at age 60, I'd be much less likely to drive it again like I was 17...
     
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  10. dan c
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,115

    dan c
    Member

    love that car..i spotted one of those in brownsville, tex., 25 years ago during a trip to south padre isl. and i still think about it often.
     
  11. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,361

    73RR
    Member

    Keep us up to date on your progress.

    .
     
  12. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Good progress today, removed the engine and transmission...I think the chassis had a sigh of relief, the front suspension topped out with the weight lifted off of it.





    2015-05-13 17.14.22.jpg 2015-05-13 17.16.38.jpg




    2015-05-13 17.14.53.jpg
     
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  13. Hi Stuart, despite the diverted path, I think you'll end up with a graceful gentleman's car in the long run that you'll enjoy, at least this build will be about function, with no rust repairs to distract. Keep at it, and look forward to watching the progress.
    Cheers,
    Drewfus
    P.S. Sorry I couldn't get a leave pass for last weekend, really did want to come down for the festivities, hopefully next time around.
     
  14. aussie57wag
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 233

    aussie57wag
    Member
    from australia

    If the flat head six doesn't work out maybe a valiant 265 might be acceptable without the other upgrades. I know in QLD that wouldn't be an issue. But I think the flathead with an extra carb would be cool.
     
  15. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Drewfus, there are some floor and sill rust distractions to deal with, just not as bad...

    Not too sure about the graceful gentleman's car, I feel there will be some attitude.
     
  16. Hnstray likes this.
  17. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia


    We are South of Sydney, NSW...
    I did look at your Dodge when it was still at Central Coast/Gosford


    $_57.JPG


    What wheelbase is your Dodge, I have been wondering what differences there are between a Dodge and a Chrysler, the first thing I notice is more Stainless trim, different grille and tail lights.



    20150509_151914.jpg



    20150509_134125.jpg
     
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  18. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I am exploring the fit-up of a Jaguar XJ-6 front suspension, seems to be a good fit between the chassis rails, I will need to remove the section of the chassis with the front spring pockets and the cross member and extend that area with laser cut plates that I will TIG together to bridge that area.


    2015-05-14 08.09.53.jpg


    What that means is that I will have rack and pinion steering, which will free up room for a bigger engine without having to offset it for steering column clearance...






    https://www.dropbox.com/s/hdrv6b6xzt9rfd9/331 HEMI ENGINE%START-UP.wmv?dl=0
     
  19. did you mean this one ....



    ;-)
     
  20. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks Drewfus, should be clear where we are heading with this build now...
     
  21. 6-bangertim
    Joined: Oct 3, 2011
    Posts: 377

    6-bangertim
    Member
    from California

    Since receiving the car, I have discovered the engine is stuck, which has changed the plan somewhat, and rather than rebuild it, I am now thinking that a 318 LA Mopar engine that I have would be a better option, then I read here that it would require an engine offset to clear the steering.
    In Australia, any engine upgrade like this would require a collapsible steering column fitted with column drop break-away mounting tabs incorporated under the dash, 2 speed wipers, disc brakes, heater/demister...all worthy upgrades, but...see where we are heading.[/QUOTE]


    I'd save the 318 for trading material and have a look at the big-inch (265?) SLANT SIX, backed by a 4 or 5-speed. You guys are SOOOOO LUCKY to have that engine available, as ours was puny at 225ci!!! NOTHING beats the sound of a warmed-up six with dual pipes... :)
     
  22. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,044

    Flat Six Fix
    Member


    I'd save the 318 for trading material and have a look at the big-inch (265?) SLANT SIX, backed by a 4 or 5-speed. You guys are SOOOOO LUCKY to have that engine available, as ours was puny at 225ci!!! NOTHING beats the sound of a warmed-up six with dual pipes... :)[/QUOTE]The off setting is very normal for a lot of Mopars, and was done in the factory too.
    Your Wipers are already 2 spd electric, so a drop voltage reducer and your in business. Pull the heater fan motor install a 12 volt replacement,(simple to source), and you have a 3 spd heater blower defrost, these cars with dual heater and the fresh air intake system are great...or run your flathead, shaved head, wilder cam grind, dual split exhaust tri carb intake 150-175 hp,but plenty of torque, add a dry clutch and either a 3 spd Overdrive trans or convert to a T5.... or better yet a Chrysler A833 4 spd Overdrive trans
     
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  23. Jag front can be quite expensive to rebuild. My mate have near $3000 in his. I'm going a whole new front end from castlemaine.


    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/My '47 3W Dodge build..960954/
    My build.
     
  24. Barn Find
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 2,320

    Barn Find
    Member
    from Missouri

    Nice looking car. The Flathead six has performed just fine in my '42 Carryall. We did an in frame overhaul after it was found stuck after sitting. It was a low-mileage motor and was stuck so tight we had to take some of the pistons out in pieces.

    [​IMG]
     
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  25. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia


    Our 265 is not the 225 slant design, we had them until 1970, then Valiants were fitted with the 245 and 265 "Hemi" (Don't think they were a real Hemi, just marketing BS, may have been a Poly...they look like the Jeep 4.0 )
     
  26. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    What is the track width on the Castlemaine front ends, are there options?

    The Jag front ends could be expensive to rebuild, but that would have to include brake upgrade ($1500) and all servicable parts including bearings, bushes and a power rack rebuild...still a good result though...
     
  27. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Useful information there, thanks...

    I am running a Chrysler A-833 Overdrive in my `34 Dodge behind the Hemi.
     

  28. They are actually making one specifically to suit my 47 Dodge.


    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/My '47 3W Dodge build..960954/
    My build.
     
  29. I don't think I've ever seen a Chrysler 3 window before--beautiful styling. Looks like a very solid old car! These old Mopars had good ride quality, seats like living room sofas, and were some of the best handling cars of their vintage.
     
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