47-54 chevy truck I-6 to V8 swap

For anyone who has done this and is brave enough to respond, I will reward you with a large sum o' questions.

 

What do you want to know?

 

how about the questions first. what do you plan to build

 

I was thinking of what major hang ups I might encounter, any odd ball type stuff, what rear end did you use, were you able to use your stock radiator?

 

You can use the stock radiator, just get a really good fan.Walton fabrication makes trans and motor mounts for the V8 swap. I used a 55 chevy rear end. But I think any 10 bolt would work.

 

Not a difficult swap. Take one SBC and Trans of your choice and position where you want it to be. Most of them that I have done were done in conjunction with an MII front suspension swap. Get the motor as far to the rear as you can to give as much fan clearaance as possible. Usually use a short water pump. use stock motor mount and trans mount and fabricate the frame mounting brackets for the motor mounts and a complete rear trans crossmember. If you are retaining the stock I-beam axle and steering gear you may run into some clearance issues with the steering box. Off setting the engine 1" to the passenger side will help. Center dump manifold will probably not work. Custom headers for this swap are expensive but available. Using the stock exhaust manifolds from an early 80's engine will probaboy give enough clearance. Other than that is is not too difficult. Just hammer and cut till you get there. If it were too easy it wouldn't be any fun.

 

thanks for the tips. unfortunately the front end will remain stock, but before I head out to the junk yards, I wanted to know what to look out for for rear. Black51 used a 55, anyone know of late models that will bolt in. I feel like S-10 comes up a lot.

 

I would also try to fab up a good fan shroud. The V8 will definitely require more cooling than the stock I6. And to make sure it all works together, I'd go with a long nose water pump and the correct accessory drivers. This will bring the cooling fan a little closer to the radiator to help pull air through.

On a second note, just because I like I6's, have you given thought to a late model Vortec 4200 as used in the Trailblazer? Yes, a good used engine and trans will set you back a little bit more the a used SBC, but at 275 HP, the power will be similar. Most salvage yards will included the wiring harness and accessory drives for a little bit more. In either case, enjoy your truck.

 

Change the steering box to a late '55 to '59 Chevy truck and cut the column off. Then use Borgensen joints up to your firewall for your steering. Make sense?
The later Chevy steering box fits in the 'C' of your frame and get you the clearence you need for the V8. Plau it will look stock and you can use your stock front end.
r

 

I have a 331 Cad, truck 4 speed (granny gear) 58 edsel nine inch in the rear, 49 fleetline independant front suspension, 85 ford ranger ram style steering. 67 dodge 1/2 ton radiator.
none of these are reccomended build part but I had them in house, in stock and free.
in case you don't know "free is a very good price"

 

I don't know about trucking the stuff from oregon to ca, but I really do appreciate the offer. I spoke with Walton fabrication about their mounts. 129 for motor mount kit and 189 for tranny kit. Seems good.

 

It's just a matter of not putting it too far forward and the fan trashing the radiator, and not putting it so far back that the top of the trans and distributor hit your firewall. There is a sweet spot and if you're not there you'll have problems. I didn't know they made a kit now.

Oh, and I also have a 55 - 64 rear in mine.



*this is with the stock straight axle up front.

 

Wide angle:

 

I have a '73 Chevelle rear under mine.

If you run a straight axle the steering is the biggest challenge. My favorite solution it to convert to power steering using a later box mounted ahead of the axle.

If you said automatic or standard transmission I missed it. Running a standard does raise some additional issues.

I'm not familiar with the Walton stuff, but there are crossmember kits available for a lot less than those prices.

This is my newest AD truck. Its a '54 GMC 1-ton dually. I'm thinking 500 Cadillac in this one and plan to use it as my trailer puller.

 

Do you know where?

I'd like to keep the truck manual, but I could get a good deal on a powerglide - free.

 

Check Classic Performance Products for the crossmember(s). Current ad on page 24 of the current issue of Classic Trucks says $120.

What year is the truck? I ask because it makes a difference when you consider manual trans options. Its possible to keep the stock manual with the torque tube but it complicates some things.

If you have a '54 or '55 1st the bellhousing crossmember will easily accept a '55 to '67(?) V-8 type bellhousing. That has the potential to simplify running the original trans and rear.

If you have a '53 or earlier you are either modifying the crossmember or mounts, or changing crossmembers.

You might want to do some reading over at www.Stovebolt.com. Lots of good information there on these trucks and various swaps. I think all the responses have been consistent with a small block Chevy swap, but I'm not sure beyond saying you have access to a Powerglide that you have identified the motor you want to use. If its not a small block Chevy that changes a few things too.

 

I used a 75 Camaro rearend, then swapped out the front drums for ones from a 54 Car. This made it 5-lug all the way around. The steering box was moved over about 2". Ramhorn manifolds, fabricated motor mounts, and the original radiator, th400 tranny, adjusted the original trans xmember to work. The fan sat a little low on the radiator, but it never ran hot...A little warm at idle in the summer, but not much. The truck stayed with this set up for nearly 10 years and about 30,000 miles. My brother recently did the Mustang II set up with 4-link in the rear with all the goodies...This is the truck before all that..

 

For the v8 motor mounts, go to Jim Carter's old truck site. He's got mounts that allow you to remove the oil pan after installation. The Classic Truck Parts mounts do not.
If you are using a SBC with a manual, get a late '50's SBC truck bellhousing and it will be a cinch.
r

 

Chevelle rear end, turbo 350 trans, SBC sits a little low for fan to cool properly but a Snow White riser kit to raise fan will solve that. Steering box was moved back with column shortened and link lenthened. I used a universal trans mount and front engine mount was fabricated. I use headers but stock manifold will work.

 

The motor that is going into the truck will be a 305. Like I had said, as much as I love the stick, the powerglide is free, or for near free I can get a 350.

I saw these first actually and wondered about them.

As well as bellhousing, I was just assuming to use the one on the motor. Is this not correct?

 

Pretty easy swap, steering is tight like everyone said. I ran a 79 malibu right side exhaust manifold on the left to go by the box and exit near the front. Stock radiator worked after cleaning, trans mount was an easy build-just tubing. A 60's-70's mid size GM 10 bolt or a 55-7 Chev rear works fine, but watch the width-the trucks are actually wider than you think. Plus the center location of the rear axle in the wheelwell isn't found by putting the rear axle pad hole centered on the spring locating pin-it's back a bit, so you will have to redrill the pad to shift the rear end back. The later pickup steering box sounds like a good choice, too.

 

Any bellhousing that was stock behind a 305 Chevy won't be one that will drop on the stock '54 crossmember. If you use the bellhousing that comes with the 305 you'll need to side mount the motor and use a transmission crossmember.

 

who can tell me for sure what exhaust manifold to use in my 47 Chevy truck with a 350 v-8 and 700r4 tranny. also say move steering box other say there is no need, can I get some help, thanks

 

265 Chevy exhaust manifolds

 

I did use Caprice stw -85 exhaust manifolds. I had to move the box about 3/4 inch, its tight fit.And of course little pitman arm modification. Been driving for 10 years no problems (stock frontend).
Peter

 

thanks for the info. was the caprice manifold rear dump or rams horn style? can you advise what you used to make the steering box bracket? Thanks from Kentucky

 

Its rear dump, you can find picture on Rockauto.com.
Bracket was a fast fix, thick wall pipe cut to right lenght and a angle iron welded to the frame.
Peter

 

OldSub, have any installation pics of that power steering setup you mentioned? Also which box & tech of how you did it? Thanks,

Rich

 

use the tri-five Chevy/ Corvette 265 V8 manifolds and you'll have no problem with the steering box .I've done four or five of these, also a long water pump will not work use a short pump

 

Sorry to tell you but Old Sub passed away several years ago. He lived on Bainbridge Island Wa close to where I lived in my early teens and I was planning to go visit him about the time of his passing.