Has anyone on this site had to redo a Mustang II install? First picture looks ok in the fender opening. Thats the way it was when I decided to buy the car. The second picture is upon arrival. The tire is too far forward, and the manual rack, pinion is to close to the C notch where the frame was boxed. The guy I bought it from said the other owner paid $900 to have it installed. I have read about making reference points, and making sure you get the centerline correct, someone screwed up.
This is pretty common. Mine looked a little off when I put the car back together, I thought I was going to have to cut it all off and start over again. Options: Cut it all off and start over with a new crossmember, or move the body Mark
it would be a lot easier to move the wheelwells than the crossmember. just be glad both wheels are in the same spot in the wheelwell on each side. went and looked at a 51 chevy truck frame and one wheel was a good 2" in front of the other.
When the guy's said they had the body off, and on several times, that was what I thought. They must have moved the body to have it in two different positions. The car has potential, just didn't want to have to redo it. The car has a TCI chassis spring kit for the 9" rear, extra parts, hood and more. If I move the body I'm thinking that will move the rear end but that can be moved also I guess. Is it worth it? Thanks for the response.
I purchased a 48 convert with the same problem. The owner could not read the Heidts instructions. My crossmember was centered on the front spring not the axle which put the suspension 4 inches too far forward. My solution was to cut off the MII and install a new one. I sold the old one on ebay and the whole deal was about $100 for the swap. Be careful not to cut the brackets too far away from the frame as you can easily grind them down and use again if you want. A plasma cutter works best. I don't know how you could move the body as nothing would line up if you did. Good luck.
The car has small tires up front, and with a 351 and it's weight the tires will turn ok, it just looks bad. The other thing that bothers me is the rack is not centered in the C notch where the frame is boxed. If I'm careful I suppose I could give it a relief cut then weld it back, other wise I think it would bind on a hard stop, maybe bust the housing. I hope you will post a lot of pictures of the convertible, that will really be a nice car.
Don't know your frame but it might be easier to cut part of the frame and shorten it right behind crossmember. That way you don't have to cut the hats and stuff apart. You'd have to make sure its all sleved and strong as well as damn straight.
just ut it out and get to it already.I am a week or two from installing a m2 crossmember in my 1948 ford coupe(gotta get one first).I am looking forward to it.
I agree here. this would be the easiest way. I am in Indianapolis if you are looking for a shop to take care of the problem.