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Hot Rods 42' ford coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by vtmopar, Jun 13, 2014.

  1. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    Hello,
    I just picked up a 42' ford coupe, getting ready to start building was hoping for a few pointers as far as quality parts source.
    Also a link to a build on a similar chassis car.
    My plans are to keep a solid front end in it, was hoping to find a build thread that covers that.
    thanks
     
    aussie57wag likes this.
  2. You might also check in on fordbarn.
     
  3. Model T1 likes this.
  4. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1402689698.560771.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1402689720.862299.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1402689739.682469.jpg

    Here's a few pics, I've been looking for a couple of years for one.



    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
    aussie57wag and Model T1 like this.

  5. 1941coupe
    Joined: Jul 4, 2010
    Posts: 398

    1941coupe
    Member

    nice project what are your plans for engine
     
  6. 48FordFanatic
    Joined: Feb 26, 2011
    Posts: 1,336

    48FordFanatic
    Member
    from Maine

    Looks pretty solid for a Vermont car.
     
  7. hey vtmopar, was that the coupe up in Bradford?
     
  8. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    Yes it was in Bradford.
    Plan on keeping a ford drivetrain, 302/C4.



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  9. bartmcneill
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 385

    bartmcneill
    Member
    from Ada, OK

    Nice, don't see many 42's
     
  10. 48FordFanatic
    Joined: Feb 26, 2011
    Posts: 1,336

    48FordFanatic
    Member
    from Maine

    There is a family around Bangor Maine the father of which had collected cars in the 40's,50's and 60s. He had three yards full of period cars and trucks. Most of the 40's stuff was military surplus in the form of Army , Navy and Air Force staff cars and ambulances. There were at least twenty 1942 Ford sedans that were complete except that the batteries were gone. The bodies were rough from sitting in the weather but they all had complete running gears and although painted ( for blackout) all of the stainless steel trim and grills were complete and perfect. People were buying whole cars if they could , but no parts picking was allowed . Most was crushed on site.
     
  11. 40fordtudor
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 2,503

    40fordtudor
    Member

    You can't go wrong with that drivetrain.
     
  12. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,072

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Looks like a fun project and I like your "all Ford" plan...
     
  13. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    I have been doing some research and I am really liking Posies super slide spring complete front end kits.
    What's your guys thoughts on Posies stuff?
     
  14. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    Just picked up a 68' C4 and 289 block for mock up this winter.
    What are my options for keeping the stock front end and adding disc brakes?
     
  15. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    Am I listing this in the wrong section?
     
  16. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,273

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Do you really need that? Is that super slide stuff really that superior to the OE Ford? If your stock stuff is OK "rebuildable" I would go with that.

    There should be be plenty of options for front disks but...do you really need them? Those cars while not lightweight like a early roadster, are not near as heavy as they look. Simply adding a double chamber cylinder under the floor will improve braking safety over stock. Then you have the option of power drums and finally power disks. Each upgrade adds complexity. Whatever you decide try to keep the old Ford Pattern on the front.

    As far as engines and drivetrain, I think a 59A or 8BA mounted to a F-1 top shift 3 speed would be killer. You can use a toploader 3 spd with a Jeep top shift for a more reliable and modern transmission. There is a truck bellhousing that will make this a bolt on. Hey I know you asked about the Challenger 289 V8, so forgive me.

    The 289 C-4 should fit with little to no modification to the car. That is if you think it through. I know that combo will fit into a F-1 with zero chassis modifications other than modifying the rear trans mount, not the cross member just the mount.

    The 289 can even sit on the flathead mounts. I think the the old Hurst mounts that bolt to the heads and sit on the flathead biscuits are still available from So Cal. The fuel pump will be tight but you can simply get a later model small diameter mechanical pump instead. Another thing that will help with firewall clearance are stock low profile early 221-289 valve covers.

    You can use a open early Ford truck rear axle or a later hypiod like a 1957-59 car 9" or 57-72 F-100 9". If you go with a car rear make sure you change to truck axles to keep the same bolt pattern. Always measure to make sure things will fit before purchase. I would try my best to keep the transverse rear spring.

    Wartime cars are kind of special, at least in my mind. There always the option of a more original restoration if the car is intact. Personally I would not do anything to it that would be hard to undo in the future. It looks like it may have a hot rod history due to the fender cut outs. If it has been heavily modified to beyond restoration, especially the chassis, then the gloves are off and anything you do to it within reason will be an improvement.
     
  17. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    thanks for the response, I don't want to modify the car that much. Keeping the front end that is in it is where I plan on going I think now after doing more research.
    the 289 block is just being used as build block for the mounts and such.
    I am picking up a 72' 302 truck motor that will be bolted to the C4.
    No modification to the frame is my plan, so eventually I can go to a flat head and 3 speed F1.
    As far as the front end I would like to keep it stock if I use what I have what do I need for a master cylinder to make my Drums power?
    the front bones where they are work with the C4?
    thanks for the help, just trying to have the entire build decided before I start.
     
  18. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 985

    fortynut
    Member

    You will need to split the wishbone to add a later engine. You will also need to use a trans mount that will clear the tunnel that Ford created when it merged the x-member. I don't do pissing contests but disc brakes will save you having to buy an iron to get the sphincter wrinkles out of the seat. Maybe even a bunch of sheet metal when you crash into the rear of a garbage truck that stops in front of you to let a cat cross the road. I would also suggest chucking the steering box and using an adapter for something of later vintage, perhaps a 525 Saginaw --- which requires cutting the steering column and shaft and using a joint; no, not the kind that holds green flakes. (If you can find a '54 Ford passenger car column that had a Fordamatic, snag it and use it, because it was made for a Ford automatic trans, has the detents and even the nice clear plastic indicator, and looks exactly like the one that came in '41-''48s.) Toss the tie rod and cross shaft and get a set made of thick-wall tubing, there are more pot-holes and curves you will take at higher speeds than in pre-war America when Ford ruled. To drop the front, reverse the front spring eye (great tips on here for doing that yourself) and reduce the number of springs after grinding the ends and installing teflon strips), or add an aftermarket one, the idea being the same: tweaking and getting it lower. AND, if you want low, have someone like Nostalgia Sid drop the front axle, or buy an aftermarket forged version. Obviously the rear end will need to be replaced. My preference is a 9" Ford. You can choose between some kind of four-link, coil-over shock set-up, or trailing link similar to the type perfected by Pete & Jake, or use parallel elliptical springs like those offered by Chassis Engineering, or Posies. Again, match this to the front for a lower center of gravity that will aid in handling. Use a dual chamber master cylinder with an adapter on the original pedal and everything else will pretty much fall into place. If you go with bigs and littles, there is a good chance you won't need an equalizer valve in the braking system. And, if you're savvy, you will match the bolt pattern of the disc brake rotors on the front with the rear and be able to skirt the need to re-drill axles. NOW THEN, is this a Traditional Hot Rod, or is this a Street Rod? I'm going to say, first of all it's a safe car that can be driven anywhere, and driven faster than stink depending on a variety of factors. Parsing definitions is not my style. I'll leave that to others. My suggestions, of course, don't address body mods, which would ruin the nice look you already have going. Because sheet metal covers the aforementioned improvements, unless you let someone look under the hood, or beneath the car, they won't know if it's a stocker, or not. More or less. Use something like Hemi mufflers to tone down the sound and you can cruise around without 'the man' hassling you, and have as much fun as someone with a free lifetime pass to the local Cat-House. But, then again, you can take other routes and see other scenery, the idea being the choices are yours to make. After all, man, it's your damn car. Build it like you want it, and drive it like it's stolen.
     
    i.rant likes this.
  19. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 985

    fortynut
    Member

    I almost forgot to add this bit of information. A fellow HAMBer pointed out to me that the Pittman arm on the Ford steering box is a direct fit on the 525 Saginaw box. I don't know if this is true, or not. I also don't know if, in order to make it work, you have to do a bit of filing to get it to clock correctly, or not. I bring this us in order to point out that using the later box, which is not power, is a net gain because it is of the recirculating ball type and adds in more ways than simply reducing steering slop. It will create clearance issues but, depending on whether you use cast iron manifolds, or headers, most fitment problems end up being non-issues when you think them through.
     
  20. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    Thank you for the input, I think I found a 72' f100 9".
    You reminded me that I have a Saginaw manual box already from my chevelle days.
    Forgot I had it.
    54' ford column might be hard to locate what's another option?
     
  21. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

    update, starting to get ready but I am thinking of another route., more traditional with a flat head and a standard transmission.
    this is what I am thinking of going with, what do you guys think?
    http://newhaven.craigslist.org/pts/4716384603.html
     
  22. I have a Saginaw manual box out of a '64 Chevelle in my '38 Ford pickup and used the original Ford pitman arm. The splines are the same.
     
  23. vtmopar
    Joined: Jun 5, 2013
    Posts: 47

    vtmopar
    Member
    from Vermont

  24. Damn dude.....looks like its ready to be picked up, shopping cart and all. Flatheads are cool, and like everyone else has said.....stock setup....with nearly 70 years of hot rod evolution is a lot better then the 60s and 70s hack jobs. Something to be said for mild improvements on what will still work....and work well. You will get tons of help here....with that in mind.
     

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