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'42-'48 front spring options

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bonebroke, Oct 24, 2010.

  1. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.

    anybody know the best way to run the '42-'48 ford front axle/spring on the model a crossmember? does anybody sell a narrowed spring or should i widen the crossmember? the model a spring is only 1 3/4 wide and, the '2-'8 is 2". thanks.
     
  2. 36tbird
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 1,083

    36tbird
    Member

    Did you split the wishbone? If you did and you have the leftover piece with the ball, please see my ad in the "wanted" section. Thanks.
     
  3. Bib Overalls
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,071

    Bib Overalls
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The best way is to use a set of "spring over" perches, 1.75" wide shackles, and a special spring from "Posies."

    If you use the stock 42-48 spring perches, the ones that are part of the wishbone, your wheel base will be shortened by 6" (+/-). Looks like $#!T in MHO.

    The 37-48 axles are narrow between the king pin and spring perch bosses. This reduces the vehicles turning radius when the bones are split to the frame.

    I recommend the Model A axle when using 28-31 and 37-48 wishbones with the 2.25" axle opening.

    I recommend 32-36 wishbones with the same year axles.
     
  4. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.

    havent split them yet but, i will and, ill have that piece and, the piece off the crossmember. right now im just trying to figure out how to set this front end up and, make it work. nobody seems to know anything about this set up.
     
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  5. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.

    i kinda like that short wheel base look. jimmy whites coupe looks mean as hell! im building a '28 five window leather back and i think it will look good. if i can figure it out.
     
  6. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,217

    F&J
    Member


    It was very popular in my area and some are still around. Most don't care for it, but it is history and is traditional....in my area.

    i guess it started as the easy way to lower a car and get juice brakes and get a v8, all by using one donor car to strip. Most around here seem to have used a 39 parts car.
     
  7. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.

    anybody have good pics of jimmys coupe or any other As with this setup? im going to build it this way and, it sure would be nice to have more info before i start cutting!
     
  8. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.

    anybody?anything...really!
     
  9. Bib Overalls
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,071

    Bib Overalls
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well, if you are determined to do it then one possible way would be widening the spring pocket in the front crossmember. I would not try to narrow the spring by grinding, cutting, or torching. Those techniques will weaken the spring.
     
  10. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.


    no! i would never grind,torch,ect. on the spring. but, when i split the bones ill need a shorter spring anyway so i thought about useing one thats a 1/4" narrower but, dont know how that would work with perches/shackles. i want to start boxing the frame this week and, would like to get ready to set the front end up. thanks.
     
  11. LesIsMore
    Joined: Apr 8, 2008
    Posts: 445

    LesIsMore
    Member
    from Ohio

  12. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,217

    F&J
    Member

    I never did what you want to do but when you say you need a shorter spring when you split the bones???

    I am pretty sure most guys keep the same spread on the perches, and bend the bone behind the axle?? Don't quote me on that :)

    If you did just spread them without bending the bones, then the spring perches would be "pigeon toe'd"...you would need to heat and bend the perch in front of the axle to get them parellel again.

    just a random thought. So let's say you were willing to have one or two new leafs made to work with a 28/34 front spring; How about just get those made to make a 28/34 spring long enough to reach your bent-in perches? You could grind each side of the perch to be able to use the 32/34 width shackles?
     
  13. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,482

    striper
    Member

    I thought this was the way it was usually done. A lot of Aussie cars were like this in the '60s. (Not that I was actually around to see it).

    You'd want to lose some leaves from that late model spring too.
     
  14. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,616

    Crankhole
    Member

    Widen the springpocket and heat/bend the hangers to parallel. Then take your main leaf down to the spring shop to be shortened. Have the eyes reversed while they're at it for a little more drop. You'll need to lose a couple of the lower leafs due to shortening of the main but that pack has about 47 extra anyway. :)
     
  15. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 6,817

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    Alright... this thread is out of control. WTF is all this talk about narrowing the spring?! Completely unnecessary! Split the bones, mount them and heat and bend the perches so they're parallel again. You can reverse the mainleaf on the floor of your garage in about 15 minutes too, do a search for more info. I doubt you'll need to with the added drop of the spring-in-front and removal of half the leaves or so. Also, I would probably cut and widen the spring pocket a bit if necessary, BUT... guys have also been grinding springs to fit narrower spring pockets for AGES with no detrimental effects. It's a VERY common thing to do when fitting a 40's rear to an OG deuce rear crossmember with the curved pocket. Stop overcomplicating things, we're building hot rods, not rocket ships!

    Geez, I'm a little crabby today! :rolleyes:
     
  16. Im running a 47 axle and I used a front f1 pick up spring on top of the axle.
     
  17. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,911

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Yet anthor way to handle this is do what Thunderbirdesq was talking about, but grind the shacke perches on the bones to 1 3/4" and have a spring made up to match. Then get some typical '28 - '34 shackles and hang the whole mess without to much fuss. What ever you do, don't bend the wishbones themselves, bend the perches out front. And nobody's asking, but I wouldn't mount a front end like that on a bet. Jimmy's coupe carries it off somewhat because it's on a later frame with a bit longer wheel base. And for the record, if that was my car, it would have been changed long ago.
     
  18. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.

    yes i wasnt thinking about the perches being pigeon toe'd and i was thinking about grinding the perches down to 1 3/4 and, useing the model a shackles with a custom spring.
    could i just pie cut the bones to fit and, reweld them?
    thanks for all the info.
     
  19. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,911

    need louvers ?
    Member

    DON'T "pie cut" the split wishbones. Split them, mount them to the frame, and heat the spring perches ahead of the axle bolts and bend them to align them. That easy. make sure you dial in about 7 degrees of caster or so when you mount the wish bones.
     
  20. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 6,817

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    How's the fit? Got any pics? I didn't realize the center bolt was equidistant from the eyes on those springs.
     
  21. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.

    why not pie cut? only ask because i was thinking about cutting them off at the factory weld and, swapping sides as they have that goofy bend in them and, i think they would look better but, not sure if they will clear tie rod or not.
     
  22. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,911

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Any thing you can do with an early Ford wishbone to avoid cutting or bending is a good idea, just from a strength standpoint. Not to mention geometry. I have pie cut a pair vertically behind the forging, without cutting all the way through to add some caster into them, but the main reason is that there is no need to. Just heat and reshape the front hangers to go where they need to and you will be fine. The problem of reduced turning radius has more to do with the width between the spring perches on the axle itself. I don't remember the exact number, but they are quite a bit wider than the typical '28-'36 axle which puts that dimension at about 36". The further out on the axle you move the perch pin and wishbone mounts, the closer they end up to the inside of the wheel and tire.
     
  23. Here is a pic from when I was mocking everything up. I have been beating on my truck for about 2 years now and never had any problems. It handles great. I also have a 47 rear in it.
     
  24. tgabbe1934
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 64

    tgabbe1934
    Member
    from smithtown

    I used a 42 axle in my car, I have a split wishbone, I got the spring from posies and used mr roadster spring hangers. It worked out nice! But your right not many people run that axle ant there isn't alot of options for it! If you have any questions feel free to ask me, good luck
     
  25. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    The biggest problem you're going to run into is the turning radius. Ya gonna need a 4 lane hiway to turn around. A '35 or '36 axle would be a better choice for this kind of setup. Better yet, Get a dropped Model A axle and do it right in the first place.

    Ron
     
  26. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,217

    F&J
    Member


    How about tucking the back end of the bones under the car more? Might be able to do that with those later S shape bones?
     
  27. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,351

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma


    you should be able to find a spring that will fit at 1 3/4 isn't a 36-41 front spring 1.75??

    personally I would either space out the shackles on the spring side or grind down the spring perch.
     
  28. bonebroke
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 152

    bonebroke
    Member
    from WI.

    is the '36-'41 front spring the same length? i was thinking about useing a model a axle with the spring in front but, looks like turning radius will be fine with what i have here.
     

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