The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by joel, Jul 19, 2017.
Looks like a nice stout piece.
Thanks, I didn't have much room there to be creative.
While waiting on the rebuild kit for the trans, I took a look at the engine. I knew it was dirty inside, but I wanted to get an idea of how worn out it might be. There is only about .004" ridge at the top of the cylinders, but 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of sludge in the pan and plenty in the valley and maybe a burnt exhaust valve. So far I cleaned the oil pan.
I installed a split system master cylinder and shortened the nose on the input shaft about 1/4 inch.
I modified the pushrod to fit.Mustang drum -drum master for manual brakes 1967. I can service it from under the truck because the cab sits on wood blocks up off the frame... more room.
The end of the shaft is just below the bellhousing /block mating surface. I'm starting the trans assembly tomorrow .
I started the assembly of the trans and I made a dummy shaft to keep the roller bearings in place. After several hours of frustration, I made a strap out of shim stock to hold the rollers in the rear while I dropped the cluster into place with the thrust washer. I restacked the rollers in the cluster (both ends) at least a dozen times... probably more.
I had to stop temporarily to wait on a new reverse idler slider gear. I missed damage until everything got cleaned up.
I finished installing the rear sway bar. I made some spacers that bolt to the frame through the original shock mount holes. I drilled and tapped holes to bolt the sway bar clamps to.
Tomorrow I'm working on a new top mount for the rear shocks.
Finally accepted a design for the rear shock mounts.
these are the pieces to be welded together.
Mount is clamped in place and the front lip on the cross member needs to be trimmed. More pix to come.
Passenger side nearly done.
welding on the left one.
Finally got the shock mounts painted and installed. I also painted the rear sway bar spacer blocks and installed them.
I mocked up the trans case with input shaft to insure It was the proper length in this application. I had planned to re-seal the 8ba that was in the truck and reinstall it. It turned out to be a nice candidate for a more aggressive build ( more expensive ) and this engine was supposed to go in a past project that was sold . It's all new parts with Aluminum heads and intake, some port work , new cam, adjustable lifters , pistons and rings. It will be about 252 cu .in. The only downside is the block is factory relieved. I'll check piston /head clearance to see if I can help that.
First, a thank you to Mart for the tie bar suggestion in an earlier post
I decided on a second torque strut attached to the other wishbone. The kit arrived from HRW today and I painted the strut rod and the bracket that bolts to the banjo housing. Also I made 2 flat plates that bolt together and weld to the inside of wishbones. They are partially painted below.
My new reverse Idler gear showed up Friday... made in India. It looks nice ; we'll see I guess.
I put the new floor pan on the chassis to make sure I have clearance where I think I do. I had to move one brake line a little. I wanted to see where the brake pedal sits at the top. I know I have to shorten the push rod a little and I get full travel in the master cylinder.
Top is the toe board insert panel that came with the truck, however I don't think its correct for 40-47 cab. The patch panel isn't that accurate either. It would be great if someone had a picture of what it's supposed to look like.
Thanks for the quick reply. Do you happen to have the plate that goes into that recess and has the cutouts for the clutch , brake, and steering column ?
I feel that I should explain why I'm fussing about this. I have replaced the original M/C with a dual chamber one with a 1" dia. bore and it's going to take more pedal travel to push the same amount of brake fluid. It's not an issue when everything is new, but as things wear, I might run out of pedal travel ;even though the shoes are adjusted properly.
Nasty but matches yours.
Tie plate is located.
I’ll look and let you know, since I didn’t use stock pedals or steering column location.
Is that not it in your previous pic?
That is what was in the truck, however, I suspect it was made for a later cab 48 and up.The cutouts for the pedals are recessed and with the rubber pedal bumpers It may limit pedal travel. I can fab something, but I'd like to know there is no simple fix before I do. Thanks .
I purchased those same panels and agree, not the greatest fit but in my case, my original Floor was paper thin and the wire wheel was showing all the real damage. The floor even had a crack in the shape of a boot where the gas pedal was. Here are some pictures of mine in case it helps you.
Here's mine. Looks like yours, only repro, and the tag says 40-41. Had a used gennie one but can't find it right now.
Yes ,64pony, it does help. Thanks for taking the time to post the pix.
That's funny because I found a listing for the same piece as 42-48 p/u. It will work in 40-41, because mine did. Thanks for digging that up and posting. Actually, it changes how much of the repair panel I will use because there is no point in saving that original opening. Thanks again.
`Finally the rear wishbone open drive split mount is done. I'll have to install the engine,trans,driveshaft and the cab to figure out the E brake.
I had to order a couple of more parts for the trans. It'll take about a week and it's raining today, so, I'll put the brake lines back on and clean up a little.
I assembled the front spindles,brakes and steering column with drag link and tie rod.
next came the wheels and and I took the frame off the horses and moved it around to a spot next to the coupe. It feels like I just got back to where it was a year ago; that's not true because I fixed a lot of crap along the way. I'll be working on a platform to hold the cab for repairs.
I don't see this thing being back to driver status for at least a year. I'm looking forward to driving the coupe for awhile.
Very nice work and it will pay dividends when completed.
Thanks . I appreciate your following along. I was rafting down the New River with my wife and son about 25 years ago. Great time and beautiful country.
Thank you Sir and that is a beautiful area indeed.
My work table for the cab is just about finished; I have to adjust so it sits level side ways and front to back.
The cab needs to be square and plumb before I take the old floor out... what's left of it.
Nice wood work! That’s a great idea.
It's been raining the last couple of days and the frame jig is done. I started the coupe and went for a short ride and took the windshield out of the truck. The rubber seal was hard to get out bot the pinch weld is in good shape. I had a temporary patch pop riveted on the pass. side of the firewall, so, I cut it out and fit a new donor section in.
The section I removed. I've been wanting to do that since I bought the truck.
Nice work there!
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