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40 front end on 32 frame

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HH Derrick, Dec 1, 2009.

  1. HH Derrick
    Joined: Jul 23, 2007
    Posts: 56

    HH Derrick
    Member

    I have a 4 inch drop 40 ford axel, 32 frame built by SoCal, model A crossmember, all mounting hardware from SoCal Speed Shop. As you can see from the pic the distance from the axel to the spring is about 8 inches. This is more than I hoped for. I expected the frame to sit lower. Am I doing something wrong???
     

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  2. thesupersized
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,367

    thesupersized
    Member

    once there's weight on it...it should go down...no?
     
  3. I agree with the supersized, could be about 400-500 lbs for a modern v8?
     
  4. zgears
    Joined: Nov 29, 2003
    Posts: 1,566

    zgears
    Member

    I started with a 40 front end, It caused me to much trouble. so I switched to a model a front end.
     

  5. In "spring over" applications with a 37-48 Ford axle you need a special spring made by Posies. It will be the correct with for your perch spacing and also have a lot less arch.

    That said, I don't care for the 37-48 axle in spring over applications. The distance between the king pin and perch is narrow. This means your tires do not have room to make a full arc when turning.

    A better choice is the 28-31 Model A axle (2.25" perch boss) or the 32-36 axle (2" perch boss). The spring perches are closer together and this gives you more turning radius. Most aftermarket dropped axles have the narrower 28-36 perch width as well.

    My roadster has a SoCal frame. I used a CE dropped axle and spring.

    My current Model A project uses a dropped 35 axle and ultra-low Posies spring.

    Hope this helps!
     

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  6. VAPHEAD
    Joined: May 13, 2002
    Posts: 3,257

    VAPHEAD
    BANNED

    You'll be ok.

    I see your shackles are straight out or up,
    when they are pointing down at 30% you'll be lower.

    Also try mounting your split bones inboard (under the frame)
    to gain room for the tire when turning.
    The later axle kingpin to perchpin distance is shorter.

    Keep taking pictures.And share them as you go along.
     
  7. mustangiimike@aol.com
    Joined: Oct 14, 2009
    Posts: 103

    [email protected]
    Member
    from custer, wa

    i am curious what spring you used?
     
  8. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    What the heck is that sticking out the bottom of the wishbone under the perch there?
    You should have a castellated tapered nut on the perch bolt that sockets into the tapered cup of the wishbone. Tighten to a fare-thee-well and install a cotter pin.

    That setup you have there is, I hope, temporary for setup only.
     
  9. I used a '40 dropped axle front end on my '32, with a Posie's spring. I added 3 extra leaves to it, from the '40 spring, because it was going to have a LOT of extra weight on it (blown Hemi). I also used the "bent" '40 wishbones, and split them. The wheels turn all the way past where the bump stops would have been. I cuttrimmed the "spring forward" spring eoff and went to "spring over" perches. With no engine installed, it sat a little bit high, but with the engine in it sits right where it needs to be. With the '40 spring in, it sat WAY too high..
     

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  10. Rem
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,257

    Rem
    Member

    Are these factory-bent wishbones? I can see that the ends look like they've given you an extra couple of inches of clearance, but I thought it was only the spring perch section in front of the axle was bent from the factory?

    Looks good, by the way.
     
  11. REM - I'm pretty sure they're Factory. I BELIEVE that the '40 axle was longer than preceeding years, and the bend was to give more steering clearance. Somebody jump in and correct me if I'm wrong...
     
  12. Bass
    Joined: Jul 9, 2001
    Posts: 3,354

    Bass
    Member
    from Dallas, TX


    The wishbone wasn't bent like that from the factory. I've seen this several times on older hot rods, and it was done after the wishbone was split to get back some turning radius (and for all the reasons being discussed on this thread).

    Whoever did yours looks to have done a nice job, so I can see how you might have assumed the wishbone left the factory like that.


    As for the original poster's question...it'll drop A LOT with the weight of the body, engine, trans, radiator etc...Don't get discouraged. It looks like you bought the correct Posies spring for the application, so it'll be fine.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2009
  13. Zombie Hot Rod
    Joined: Oct 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,452

    Zombie Hot Rod
    Member
    from New York

    Put your jack stands under the axle and the weight of the frame alone should take it down another inch, then expect it to go down about about another two inches once you've got the weight of the running gear and body on it.
     
  14. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    For frame setup, P&J used to recommend using only the main leaf of the front or rear transverse springs. This "mockup" is close to where the frame will sit when the spring is complete and the frame loaded with engine trans radiator body etc.
     

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