Projects 40 Ford Sedan "The Varmit" IS DONE! Successfully completed a Reliability Run

Good point, my uncle had the same problem in a 40 pickup flathead/T5 setup. He noticed it was squirrelly in the rear end.. crawled under it and notices the bones had been a-flexin. I think he said he got his torque arm from Drake, but I'm sure many suppliers make them.

 

Let me know if you need any parts. I sold my 1940 tudor but still have a ton of new parts like window seals, door handles, window cranks, I also have a set of quarter panel repair panels. I have the majority of the trim and other odds n ends. let me know if you end up wanting some or all of this. I have a lot of money tied up in it but now I have no use for it so I could give you a rather good deal just to see your project start off well. email me at my personal email [email protected] I check it more often than my HAMB mail.

 

btw I noticed your in Ft Worth. I am located two hours north of you in Oklahoma just west of Ardmore.

 

I am in the process of king pin install this week. I hope to have her on the ground soon so that I can begin the process of locating the 305/AOD in the frame. Any ideas of where I can get a used conversion open driveshaft kit? Thought maybe someone might have one sitting on the shelf but there doesn't seem to be any listed fer sale. I'll try to figure out how to post the pictures of 40 Proof sometime to keep you posted. Bytheby Mr. Hay.....I have my original 38 Chevy sedan sitting behind the shop as my next build.....if I ever get this Ford done! Nice Avatar!

 

Thanks! The 38 Chevy is my dad's, he passed away. As far as a used open drive conversion goes, that might be difficult in that once the conversion is installed, I would assume that most people don't convert it back to a torque tube, but I'd scour craigslist, ebay and swapmeets. You might just have to buy a new open drive conversion. Dick Spadaro here on the HAMB is probably a good place to start for that conversion, but there are others that make that too.

I'd love to see some pics of your build!

 

Hey Dan it's MIke Sparks. Your dads Chevy still looks just like I remember it. He was one heck of a guy and an AMAZING mechanic/builder. Hope you are doing well. Kids are big! Looking good. If I can help parts wise give me a jingle. I may have some stuff you can use for your build????

Hope all is well!

 

A couple of weeks ago we had an official CrossMembers CC pow-wow at Roothawg's ranch. I threw the front end in the truck and after the meeting we jigged up the assembly on Root's table. We heated up the spring perches to cherry red and with a large pipe wrench, we persuaded the perches to again be perpendicular to the axle


After I got back to Texas, I got to work painting and assembling. For the chassis parts I'm using Rust-o-leum's appliance epoxy gloss black. It's good stuff. Even though this is a fat fender car and the underside will never see the light of day, I couldn't help but detail it a little. With the angle grinder I smoothed and polished the ridges of the axle, then covered it in clear. Not show car, but I like it.


Assembly... What you can't see in this pic is Limework's Oil impregnated bushings. Those things are cool, went in with little trouble, and will last much longer than nylon.

Bolting it up.

This picture doesn't do it justice, but I jacked it down to a rough estimate of ride height. Approx 13" from the kingpin center to the floor. (Half of a 26" 550-16) With a motor and assembly it will drop and inch or two more and sit pretty darn good....even though it doesn't look like it here. The stance is one thing I did a lot of research on. My car must have the right stance.


Up next is the steering arms, kingpin reinstall, tie rods, drag link and sway bar. This front suspension is almost done!

 

Working in a 20X20 forces me to back out the coupe every morning for some elbow room!
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Looking good Holmes.

 

Won't be long !

 

Way cool, Dan!

 

I've used that Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray paint on my suspension parts as well. Flows out really nice while spraying and has a really good shine to it. Seems like it should be pretty durable as well. That axle looks good!!

 

Reminds of when I was building my 40 tudor in my 20x20 garage. My wife insisted her new car be in there each nite, so I had my chassis on roll arounds that I made and each nite it got moved back over to the side.

 

What are using for a front spring? Judging by the unloaded shackle angle in your pictures, it appears a little wide. I am using a narrower leaf (about 36" c-c) from C.E. on a similar front end.

 

It's the CE narrowed spring for the 47" axle.


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Good progress, Dan -- It's cool to see this coming together!


Malcolm

 

I think I know what you're seeing, it's an optical illusion, because the spring is not on the same bolt as the shock. The shock is on its own stud. I know that most aftermarket shackles have the spring and shock sharing a stud. From the angle of the pic it does look like the spring is too long.

Thanks bro. See you in Joplin?

 

Man that's a great project and she's looking good! Great to see your little ones involved too!

 

I had a 40 Std Coupe for several years with a 350 SBC hooked up to the original drivetrain. It had a Hurst shifter on the original side-shift box when I got it but I changed it back to column with the parts I had on hand and liked it alot better.
I had no complaints about the car with the 3.78:1 rear gears but I swapped them for a 3.25:1 set. Took many long drives. Garner state Park from Houston, 600 round trip. Dallas from Houston 500 mile round trip, etc. AND the car was my daily driver. Too bad these gear sets aren't made anymore though 3.54s are a great alternate.

 

Wouldn't miss it!

 

Hacked off the stock steering arms today for the CE dropped forged units. Very simple except the grease fitting needed to be changed to a 90. The 90 degree fittings I found are bigger and required a little grinding to clear the arm.

While waiting for some paint to tack up I used a 320 block on the body an was surprised when original paint appeared below the coat of rust and brush paint! I think I'll do the whole car to get the rust off.



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You use a sawzall?


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rotary phone....

 

No, just an angle grinder with a cutoff blade.

 

Looking good.

 

Still have to do that to mine.


Posted using my kitchen wall
rotary phone....

 

Why spend good money when an hour with a torch will give a good result that will never come loose?

 

Not sure why, but mine wouldn't clear the bones. They would come closer clearing going above the bones. That was the original plan. I had bought a complete front end and the dropped arms came with it.


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rotary phone....

 

Nice work on your car! Your 38 is very nice also!

 

Thank you! My dad built the 38, its been in the family since 1970.

 

Today it's back on all four wheels for the first time in a year. I was very motivated to get it back on wheels because I have to take it to the automotive theft task force for them to verify the VIN. Then I can proceed to get a bonded title. The car came with a good and correct title, but it was signed (forged probably) and not notorized. Several guys suggested finding a wink wink notary to fix the problem, but I just couldn't do it, my conscience wouldn't let me.

I know that it's pretty early in the build to buy tires, but I came into a chunk of money unexpectedly, and the wife graciously agreed to a set of Cokers. And with two kids, if ya don't spend it, it'll be gone on something else! haha


Up next is to lower the rear about 4 inches, so those meaty 750's tuck up in the fender nicely. I've got some Tardel 2" shackles, and I'll use a Posies spring or see if a local spring shop can work some magic on the original (Reverse eyes, de arched etc) Then I need to check all the bearings, wheel cylinders and then give it a coat of rust-o-leum.

Anyways, here's some pics in the driveway with new shoes!
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August 2012, when I brought it home..
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