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Projects 40 Ford Pickup Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 64ranchero, Jul 6, 2015.

  1. 64ranchero
    Joined: Aug 29, 2013
    Posts: 12

    64ranchero
    Member
    from Peoria, Az

    So I've been building a 1940 Ford Pickup while attending school at WyoTech in Laramie, Wyoming. I picked the cab up from a guy close to the school and so far what I have done to it is chop it 1.5 inches while in my Street Rod and Custom Fabrication Class. Now I am in Motorsports Chassis Fabrication where I am going to build a full custom frame to set the cab on. I am not quite decided yet on if I want to go completely traditional with the chassis and do a dropped axle and monoleaf suspension or if I am going to go more modern with mustang 2 and four link. I am going to build the frame shorter than factory so that I can move the wheelbase forward a foot or so and run a shorter bed to get everything back in proportions with the chop. I am not quite decided on how much to shorten the wheelbase and bed so if anyone has any pictures of truck with this modification please share. It make take a second to get pictures loaded so please bear with me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2015
  2. 64ranchero
    Joined: Aug 29, 2013
    Posts: 12

    64ranchero
    Member
    from Peoria, Az

    This is the pickup cab as I bought it. Can anyone tell me how to post full size pictures? I loaded this one from my phone but will upload the rest to my computer
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,028

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Easy Breezy Lemon Squeezy! The new HAMB is about the easiest forum I have ever seen for photos. 1. When you start a post you will see three boxes below and to the right of the text box:
    POST REPLY - UPLOAD A FILE - MORE OPTIONS...
    Place the cursor in the text box where you want the photo to go, click on the UPLOAD A FILE, choose the file from your computer. After it uploads it asks you if you want full size, click that button and Bing....your photo is in the post and is full sized...
     
  4. 64ranchero
    Joined: Aug 29, 2013
    Posts: 12

    64ranchero
    Member
    from Peoria, Az

    Okay, so I finally got the chance to upload all the pictures and get this thread up to date.
    Here is the cab after i got it into class and got the tape laid out with 1" increments laid out down the tape so i could get a few pictures and cut the cab up on paper to decide how much i wanted to cut it. I decided on an 1.5" chop. Pickup Chop Layout 3.jpg Pickup Chop Layout 2.jpg Pickup Chop Layout 1.jpg
    Here my instructor and I are heating up the striker plates so i could remove them without snapping the heads off.
    Thomas.jpg Thomas 2.jpg 40 Ford 1.jpg 40 Ford 3.jpg 40 Ford 4.jpg
    Interior of the truck cab before my partner and I began sanding on the interior before cutting. 40 Ford 5.jpg
    Here my partner is sanding on his half of the cab getting it down to bare metal for cutting and welding 1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
    Here is after we sanded everywhere we were going to cut and weld and made templates for the chop. You can also see the paper cut out of my chop on paper and the a picture of the truck i want my chop to turnout like. 5.jpg
    Welding bracing into the truck for the chop.
    6.jpg 7.jpg
    After the door tops were cut off with a sawzall. 8.jpg 9.jpg 10.jpg
    Here you can see i didn't brace the driver side from the a pillar to the b pillar, because the cab was tweaked from sitting in a field so when i cut the roof off i squared up the cab and braced the driver side before re-aligning the top. 11.jpg 12.jpg
    After getting all the lines laid out for the chop!
    13.jpg 14.jpg 15.jpg 16.jpg 17.jpg 18.jpg 19.jpg
    Starting the chop! The a pillars and the b pillars were cut with a hacksaw and the back of the cab was cut with a plasma cutter and a guide! 40 Ford 6.jpg 40 Ford 7.jpg
     
    j-jock, LOU WELLS and kidcampbell71 like this.

  5. 64ranchero
    Joined: Aug 29, 2013
    Posts: 12

    64ranchero
    Member
    from Peoria, Az

    Doing some more cutting on the cab! We had one more guy jump in on the project at this point because he needed something to help with.
    40 Ford 8.jpg 40 Ford 9.jpg
    The top finally came off! 40 Ford 10.jpg 40 Ford 11.jpg
    We found some lead in the passenger side a pillar so we had to get that taken out before we could continue with the chop.
    40 Ford 12.jpg
    Some more pictures of the roof off of the truck 40 Ford 13.jpg 40 Ford 14.jpg 40 Ford 15.jpg 40 Ford 16.jpg Getting all of the lead melted out of the passenger pillar!
    40 Ford 17.jpg 40 Ford 18.jpg 40 Ford 19.jpg 40 Ford 20.jpg
    After we got the top set back on just to see how it looks! Definitely looks a ton better already 40 Ford 21.jpg 40 Ford 22.jpg 40 Ford 23.jpg 40 Ford 24.jpg 40 Ford 25.jpg
    This is where the truck is sitting now. It is about 75% final welded now and I hope to have the chop done and metalfinished by the time i get to bring it into my next class to build a custom chassis to set under it. I am really happy with how its turning out for my first chop. 40 Ford 26.jpg 40 Ford 27.jpg 40 Ford 28.jpg 40 Ford 29.jpg 40 Ford 30.jpg 40 Ford 31.jpg 40 Ford 32.jpg
    Me standing next to the truck with it sitting on the ground. 40 Ford 33.jpg
     
  6. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 6,385

    Budget36
    Member

    Love subtle chops on PU's...just me. but am in your camp!
     
  7. rougewave
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 40

    rougewave
    Member

    I really like to see young fellas getting into the craft, keep on truckin'
     
  8. Good Job, Oh, to have a well equipped shop to work in!
     
  9. 64ranchero
    Joined: Aug 29, 2013
    Posts: 12

    64ranchero
    Member
    from Peoria, Az

    Thanks guys! And the WyoTech street rod shop is one of the best equipped shops I've seen!
     
  10. Your bed length is going to be determined in part by your fenders. You want the bed to be a bit longer then the fenders for aesthetic reasons. IE you don't want the fenders to be rubbing the cab ot sticking past the bed in most cases. So ideally what you want is to get a pair of fenders (or at least one and set it in line with the cab then build your frame accordingly. Bed wise the chassis doesn't need to reach the back of the bed but your axle will want to be centered in the fender so your frame in most cases will extend past the axle center.

    The chop looks good by the way, the perfect chop on a 39/40 cab or car leaves it looking like a thug with his hat pulled down low over his eyes and you nailed it.
     
  11. Blue Coupe
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 58

    Blue Coupe
    Member

    Excellent! Auh, life in Laramie. My old stomping grounds. Thanks for sharing your build, I look forward to following along! Go Pokes!
     
  12. 40Standard
    Joined: Jul 30, 2005
    Posts: 5,840

    40Standard
    Member
    from Indy

    1st chop? WOW!
     
  13. exterminator
    Joined: Apr 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,591

    exterminator
    Member

  14. 64ranchero
    Joined: Aug 29, 2013
    Posts: 12

    64ranchero
    Member
    from Peoria, Az

    Thank you guys!
     
  15. Hamtown Al
    Joined: Jan 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,381

    Hamtown Al
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    You are doing good!
    Keep workin'
    Al
     
  16. Love these 40 pickups, don't like chops on them, but you've made me a fan....that looks really sweet, great work, I'll follow this post for sure...
     
  17. harley rider
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 527

    harley rider
    Member

    very cool. what a nice shop to work in.
     
  18. 64ranchero
    Joined: Aug 29, 2013
    Posts: 12

    64ranchero
    Member
    from Peoria, Az

    Olskool32 that's a bitchin truck! Do you know how much overall the bed was shortened? And did you shorten the wheelbase also?
     
  19. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,069

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

    Go with a traditional frame and suspension design. Drop axle and springs.

    There is no reason not to. And done right and engineered properly you will learn more and have a truck that stands the test of time, rather than another street rod that looks dated in a year.

    Nice job and keep going!
     
    Runnin shine likes this.
  20. OLSKOOL32
    Joined: Jul 28, 2009
    Posts: 49

    OLSKOOL32
    Member

    The wheelbase is stock. The bed was bent up at a sheet metal shop, it's 6 ft long
     
  21. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,038

    fortynut
    Member

    How come you didn't lengthen the cab by adding to the roof and doors? Four to six inches wouldn't have been all that visually different and considering that most of us who are adults in this century are a hell of a lot larger than the men who drove and rode in those pickups back in the day. I have a basket case Forty and damn if I'd cut on it without thinking about how I'm going to squeeze myself inside even with the unchopped top, and have seen some well designed long door pickups that were chopped that you would have spent time pondering what had been done to them to make them look so good. And, as to shortening the wheel base. Come on. If you're going to be inside a teeny cab with the slump of concrete Freeways and sways where big trucks have pressed melted tar into swales and that sucker is moving up and down like a rubber ducky in a bath tub full of kids, you are going to hate it. Don't they teach thinking about the bigger picture up there at that high dollar school? Think about what kind of ride you're building and not how it's gonna look. Looks are what come after you deal with function. That's howcome I have no respect for schools, and damn if I didn't go to a few. Yeah, I'm your worst nightmare when it comes to liking someone messing with a Forty and not having a clue about the results. Next thing I'll see on this will be you wantin' to get rid of the drip rails. Har Har. Keep up the good work and live with your mistakes. That'll make a man out of you, or maybe not.
     
  22. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,552

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Great job! The cab you chose was actually a '42 - '47 cab. Looking at the side of the cowl area you can see the higher bolt holes where the larger '42 - '47 fenders bolt up. You'll need to fill those holes if you use the '40 fenders.
    Here's my '46. Same cab as a '40. I chopped the top 3". Used two roofs so no filler strip was needed.
    I'm 6'6" tall. But not morbidly obese. The only regret I have is I only chopped the seat riser 2". I should have chopped it 3" too. Otherwise I fit in there fine.

    As a former adult ed instructor (welding and auto repair) I applaud your career choice. You have a great start there.

    Another tip - the '37 - '39 fender is the same shape as the '40 but is 1.5"wider, since the box was widened in '40 by three inches. I used the earlier '37 fenders for greater tire clearance. It required I flared out the rear of the running boards to match.

    Good luck with your build.
    Subscribed.

    ins02.jpg ins08.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2020
  23. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 6,385

    Budget36
    Member

    Cheerios and piss come to mind. Not everyone is 6 feet tall checking in at 270lbs. I’m near 60 and 5’8”. I could have the roof dropped on my ‘36 Pu 4 inches and it wouldn’t bother me a bit.

    Ever think he built it for himself and not the next fella?
     
  24. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,588

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just a 'heads-up' here...If you go dropped axle, avoid the Monoleaf like the plague!
    Breakage is common, I broke the right front one on my F100 2 years after installing them. (2 front springs, semi-elliptic)
    Many reports of broken Monoleaf springs, if you want 'low', order a Posies front spring, "In-da-dirt" by name.
    Reversed eyes and flattened, with anti squeak pads installed. (cheaper than the 'Mono', also...)
     
  25. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,552

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    EDIT: Upon further consideration I think it was in '41 when the boxes got widened and the fenders got narrower, when Ford went with two parallel leaves in front and bigger frame. If that's the case then what I told you can be ignored - your '40 build will use the narrower box with the wider fenders. My bad.
     
  26. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 6,385

    Budget36
    Member

     
  27. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 6,385

    Budget36
    Member

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