Home now and got some time to check out the fuel leak. There was fuel puddled at the top of the tank while removing the bed box and two bed boards. I knew that because when I started remove it things the fuel began to drip all around the pickup area. Once I got things off and the gas at the top of the tank cleared off here’s what I had …. I then turned the key on and flipped the fuel pump switch - no leaks appeared. The result was as you see it above. Now I have questions …. 1- tank sending unit the screw package came with rubber washers which fit the tank screws so I used them on the sending unit. Should I use a stainless flat washer instead? 2- I did have one loose hose clamp that caused a slight leak up by the gas filter where it ran down the pipe to it. 3- is there more pressure when you crank the engine over? I would oh d think not. At this point I will get the new distributor in and attempt another startup, checking the top of the tank for leaks. I was hoping to put this to bed today but it was not meant to be. I am also thinking of a trap door in this area either one of the aftermarket stainless ones or one that I make up that fits the theme of the truck, I am also thinking of cutting out the access hole wood carefully and using it as the door using a small piano hinge. All in all it was a good day …..
I use the little o rings supplied by tanks inc, don't twist them down too snug is the trick. Get some Permatex fuel and oil resistant sealant. It never dries, just gums stuff up so it doesn't leak. Apply liberally to the rubber base gasket and those o rings on the screws. It'll stop. Looks like you need to pick up another can of krylon too while you at napa
Haha you n the Krylon but how true.! Will pick up that Permatex item and get it all done be. I will leave it all open until I have it running jus to be sure though …. Thanks for the advice!
Spread on the permatex on both sides of the rubber gasket and set the bolts down down just to the point it starts to squish the gasket out, no tighter. Let the sealer do its job. It never hardens, just a layer of goop to keep the gas in the tank. FYI, you might consider buying some fuel injection clamps to use rather than worm drive clamps in your picture. They hold more pressure and you can clamp them down tighter. I hate leaks, especially gas. They look like this if you haven't used them before. I prefer them over worm drive clamps always. The sizing is weird as they are for injection fuel line which is a bit thinner so bring a chunk of fuel line with you to napa to make sure you get the right size.
I've found the Holley brand of those style clamps to be better than anything I can find in the stores, even when they look the same there is something different and better with the Holley. Price isn't bad either
I picked up the Permatex stuff Bandit Billy told me about but had to order the hose clamps. I got them straight from Holley. Every gasket was coated and all was reinstalled….. I will get a picture of the actual tube - pretty sticky stuff to be sure. I have also taped the sending unit and pickup readying all to paint the top of the tank. I will install new hoses with the clamps as well just in case. It won’t be Krylon but rustoleum however ( chuckling). Then I will move to the underneath and clean, prime, and repaint those areas ….. Considering the rather long list of stuff I did for the house, not a bad day …..
Here’s the picture I promised …. I primed and painted the tank today - got company coming this week so I will not get back to it until Sunday at the earliest. Maybe I will have the clamps by then and I can button up the top side …..
My project had to take second fiddle for awhile while I spent time with family (Sept and Oct are loaded with birthdays, anniversaries, Carlisle, Hershey, my coupe left me stranded - check out my thread Break Downs), just to name a few. But most all of that is squared away now save for a few more soccer weekends before the holidays begin. Anyway, here is where I am at ….. She runs! I finally got the truck started after giving up on the new new distributor that replaced the first new one. Gabby was over helping me out and we were going in circles. So we called in my good friend Butch to help us out. While waiting for him, Gabby suggested we see if we could resurrect the original old distributor that the engine shop used when the first distributor had a bad module (at that time). So, we repaired and cobbled the old unit with all new components and stuck it in place. We were 180 out but once we fixed that she fired right up. We never were able to get any indication of trying to start with the new distributor. My engine shop friend will come over one night next week and tweak things but she runs and that’s what counts. Had a few other issues: oil pressure sending unit was in the way and I moved it, had a lower radiator hose leak, power steering box leak which I fixed with a thin gasket, and no new gas leaks. The oil, water, and gas gauges didn’t work but I have not investigated that yet. Other item was whether to have an access panel in the bedwood in case there were any future leaks. I decided against that by coming up with a plan to drop the tank down from m underneath. If one unboltable hitch piece is removed and the two tailpipes just after looping over the rear removed, I can drop the tank down like a 40 ford should and I have added extra length hoses and electrical to help with that. I will now be able to chip away at it again …..
So been chipping away at things and got the gauges sorted out. Ground was good but the fuse was blown. Now I have volts and a gas gauge reading. the power steering pump is not oozing fluid, radiator is not leaking when at a stand still - just waiting for my engine shop friend to come over and get the engine tuned up. Once we have it done I will take a video, put it to you tube, and post it here ….. with the short glass packs it sounds pretty healthy though!
I have a question and the main board regarding using the 40-41 pickup hood supports which are the same time as a 39 Deluxe, on a 42-47 cab but I believe HamtownAl answered my question ….. This is the last piece of the puzzle before mounting the hood. Any way, I worked on the passenger fender a bit yesterday and now today …. First off was to put some fender welting where the cowl meets the fender edge. Even tough it is not bolted to the cowl this will aid in keeping things clean during the install and somewhat rattle free going down the road. The inner fender panel was next and I had to get a little creative when doing this by myself …. …. and after doing a little massaging, got it done …. Of course I could not find the 4 stock lower surface face bolts anywhere (and I just saw them too - sound familiar?!?!) and just used regular bolts until tge new set comes in. With the determination of where the hood support arms bolt on the cowl, I have the arms now installed …. I have not heard from my engine guy yet so maybe I’ll hear from him this weekend. But I will see if I can round up a couple guys to help me install the hood ….
Hey PU buddy, since your cab is 42-46 there are no holes in the lower cowl as you picture shows of your truck above. However, doesn't the front fender require a hole to bolt to down there? On my 46 cab I requested a template from our HAMB brethren and drilled the holes and set them with riv nuts. I think only one is required and I think it is the lower one but being that I have not re-assembled mine I am doing a lot of guessing. @40FORDPU will know for sure. If he charged for advice, I would be penniless by now.
I think there is one hole way down on the frame, the bracket off the cowl and the rest is bolted to the running board. I will check things out though and see what I come up with …… my fenders do have holes in them to bolt to the cowl but I can’t remember if there were any holes in the cowl in any/all the cabs that I have owned …. Btw the holes you indicated, if there are any, would be way up and further towards the back ….
Here is a '40 cab for sale online. Obviously, someone used the blue tip wrench to remove the fenders and hood during the careful disassembly. But there are 3 holes in the lower cowl. I think that the big trucks may have used all three holes and the 1/2 tons used only one? I am no expert on these, just learning as I go along and confusing other people as I do.
Here is a better example. My 46 cab in bare metal and no holes in the lower cowl like yours. I had one the fellas do me up a template off a 40 cab, I transferred the holes to mine. Drilled and zerted them. Afterward I learned I only needed the bottom one if I remember correct.
@Bandit Billy is correct. Only the lowest hole, the cowl L bracket (or equivalent '46-'47 bracket), running board, and splash guard (tied in with inner fender) attaches the front fender. The other two holes will not align with fenders for the pickup, I believe all of the cabs were the same, which explains the other holes which would have been used on the larger trucks for fender mounting.
This may help when you get to the mounting of the splash guards. The splash guard (fender brace) attaches at three points: 1-lower bolts to frame-shared hole/bolt with inner fender panel 2-second one bolts to bottom of fender 3-third one (end with the "arm") bolts to fender lip, approx. 6-8" from bottom of fender wheel well. The fender is the only part that bolts to the cowl, utilizing that small "L" shaped bracket.
Thank you gents for the help - this is going to work out ok one way or another. The fender brace I cannot use since I am running Speedway’s 4-bar setup. However, I have a design in my head to hold the lower rear portion of the fender if it seems like it needs it. The running boards might be enough. There will be more questions before there’s an answer for what I may/may not need to do that’s for sure. Thanks again …..
My engine builder friend came over yesterday to set up a baseline of where the timing should be, carb adjustments, etc. She runs really nice now - just have to figure out how to post the video!
I put the bed back to rights today and work onbtgg by e battery cables tomorrow among other things ….. I need to get a couple guys together to help with the hood next followed by the front electricals …..
Hopefully here is the link to hear the engine running ,,,,, https://www.dailymotion.com/video/k1nBWGNUWsdiufyuULd
I caught some damn bug and been down for a week. Wife says if I can't go to work, I can't go play in the garage. That doesn't make a lotta sense but here I sit.
The Jalopy Journal
