Register now to get rid of these ads!

40 Ford P-up Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TomT, May 21, 2013.

  1. Watching intently on how your hitch comes together Tom. I’m planning something similar for my 39 sedan. I picked up the rear half of a 32 pickup last year and will be making a trailer from it to pull behind the 39.
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2020
    loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  2. Jason - l am building the hitch setup to tow up to 3000 lbs. This is about 6-700 lbs heavier than the little RV, when fully loaded, would weigh. We shall see .....
    loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  3. Worked on the hitch and hood today after a little side job. I am down to one daily driver until my truck gets here so I installed a hitch on the one just in case I needed to move the RV or we get a wild hair and go somewhere with it.

    Worked on the hood first and got it cleaned up underneath, primed, and one coat of satin black on it

    I have run into a slight issue though. The hood latch support rod is about an inch short of where it’s supposed to bolt in (first pic). Any help would be appreciated on how to resolve it. It is the right support rod - 40 Standard and truck are the same.

    I then got to the hitch. This hitch came off of a 92 Chevy p-up that I took off when cash for clunkers came around. It angles back which suits my present purposes very well and the end pieces slide in and out. Again, another good thing for me as my 35-36 frame angles inward about the last 5 inches. Since the angle of the hitch and frame are pretty close, I put a slice in each hitch end to bend it to match the final toe in if my frame .....
    Now the ends are in line with the frame. I also notched them a bit so they butt up to the backside of the frame. I then checked how the front 37 bumper that’s cut in half might fit and it sits too close to the rear fender ...,

    I then tried the front 37 bumper and it’s a winner ....
    With the bumper in place, it is flush with the end of the hitch. Now it’s time to cut some additional tubing from the other hitch and weld them to the hitch. This will give support to the .... D6935C19-CEC6-48D5-8407-5C44AAA28836.jpeg ... end pieces which slide in and out. I also played with license plate lighting. Seadog gave me one awhile back but it’s more for a flush mount and this one will float above the license plate. I have two little led lights that install in the top two license plate holes but they are not exactly my style. I will fab up a bracket for the one Seadog gave and see how that looks ....

    Tomorrow I will transfer my template to the 1/4” plate ...... things are moving along ......
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2020
  4. There are 3 U-shaped spacers that fit over the flange where the two halves of the hood are joined. One of which takes up the "missing" inch between the hood latch support rod and the hood. Drake lists 91A-8219 as the hardware kit number for this... do a search for that and you'll probably find a diagram of what the parts look like and where they belong.
    loudbang and The 39 guy like this.
  5. Thank you warbird - I have the spacers on the other hood. I will see if there are and different lengths and try it out on the new hood.

    I only had a 3 hour window or so to work on the project today. Since it was another beautiful day, I worked outside and on the topside of the hood trying to strip it. I exhausted the nice stripping wheels I had bought and used on the bed so I tried something from Lowe’s but struck out. I used some stuff I had lying around but found a different stripping wheel in the paint section vs the tool section of Lowe’s - I will try it out tomorrow. The hood is coming along, however.

    Another 1/2 day only tomorrow in the garage but I hope to beat the rain and finish stripping it ......

    One surprise for y’all is that I found a used truck hood ornament. But get this - the part number stamped in it is for a 40 Standard, not the truck. It also has a broken tip but the seller is going to send another piece from a standard hood ornament and I hope to be able to epoxy something together with the bolt ....
    It’s bolted onto the hood now, it fits near perfect. and I may not even need to have the last bolt in but I would like to have something there. Welding pot metal is not easy nor is it a strong bond so I hope to cobble something together using epoxy, perhaps with the center strip. But you can see the hood ornament has plenty of patina. At this point I haven’t decided on how to refinish it, or if at all, but I would like to remove the warts. Pics tomorrow ....
    lothiandon1940, loudbang and pprather like this.
  6. I suggest JB Weld.
  7. Thanks, Phil, for the suggestion.....

    Only been at it for about 1.5 hours today so far but the paint stripper I bought last night turned out great ...
    And I absolutely used ALL of it ....
    I then applied some self etching primer after a wipe down with a tack rag ....
    Once dry I masked things off to get the hood lip ....
    ... and epoxy primered it and also applied primer sealer when it was dry.

    Here are a couple pics of the hood ornament ....
    ... and I have a plan for the repair. As I mentioned, I am getting another 6” portion of the hood ornament which includes the hole. I will cut off enough to blend in with what’s left on the hood ornament, and epoxy/glue/I weld the two together using a piece of 18-22 gauge metal underneath to tie them together. Once dry I will drill the hole clear, seat and insert the screw to hold it, and epoxy/glue/jbweld it to the repair. After dressing the repair and making sure the hood strip slips over the end as intended, I think I am golden. I won’t crank down on it when bolted to the hood but if I can leave the slot clear in the bolt, I can help keep the bolt in its place when I tighten the nut. I think this is my best bet and it will be better than nothing there at all.

    As for cleaning the hood ornament up, I think if I get another paint stripper wheel and lightly go over the hood ornament with it, it will work out fine. If you look closely at the hood ornament, the flat surface under where the pull handle would be, it was cleaned up in this manner. If it works out this nice over the entire ornament, some matte clear and some aged pinstriping of the stripes and “FORD” in the color of the truck would look great in my book.
  8. Will the sheet metal support under the hole raise the back of the ornament off the hood?
    Another approach, but maybe less strong, is cut the remaining part of the hole off and using similar entire hole from donor, bond it to the ornament.
    Hard to know the strongest approach. You'll make a good choice. This is another nice ride.
    loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  9. Thanks for thinking of that, Phil, but none of these hood ornaments sit perfectly and I am far from expecting perfect. But, 18, 20, or 22 gauge will not raise it all that much. Cutting off what’s left of the hole only leaves a butt joint with the attached piece. In my mind (and I overthink everything), the melding of the two together as the hood piece is would provide a stronger bond. The “V” head bolt would be epoxy/glued/ jbwelded in place through the two units. The more areas these two pieces have to bond together, the better in my mind. The center strip will actually goes over the top of and wraps around the hood piece and the repair so that will also hide the fix and give it some additional areas to keep it all together.

    So, whatever’s noticed will be but I will do my best to minimize it .....
    lothiandon1940, loudbang and pprather like this.
  10. Worked on the hood yesterday for only about an hour or so and got started with the body work. Still working on it today and I am happy with the results so far .....
    Good news on the front hood ornament - the gentlemen who sold the ornament to me was kind enough to knock the price down by 1/4 and send another piece to help in the repair as I have all ready mentioned. Got a call this morning and he found another truck hood ornament with a broken handle he will send me. I can keep my handle but just ship the broken nose piece back to him. I thought that pretty nice of him and the way it should be. The money will remain the same but that’s not the issue here. I was willing to fix the one I had when he called me. He has a lot of 40 parts and I have known him for years. He is not cheap but he has a lot of the stuff you need. PM me if you would like his number.

    It’s damp out today so things are taking a bit longer to dry. But, save for a little more work on the driver front lower lip, it’s just about there. If the sun comes out at all tomorrow I hope to paint the top side of the hood .... we shall see how things go .....
    Still chipping away at it ....
  11. Got the hood body work finished up today - well, let’s put it this way: it’s as straight and smooth as I can make it. Drilled the holes for the Ford badges but the weather is not cooperating to paint it. My next sunny day is Friday according to the weather man.

    As a “time filler “ while I waited for things to dry I prepped the badges and installed the two front cover panels....
    Since we have rain the next two days I will jump back on the hitch installation. I have the first portion of the side rail template transferred to the steel ...
    Since the frame rail kicks up the side rail pieces will be in multiple pieces and then welded together. The cutout is for the parallel leaf setup. My plan is to pull the two bolts, weld a portion of 1/4” plate over it and onto the 1/4” plate, drill and mount it back together with grade 8 bolts ....
    The idea is to use every bolt hole in the frame that the plate comes in contact with plus drill a few more right up to the rear crossmember, but keeping away from the sway bar bolts. That should total 8-9 just in the frame and 5 more in the hitch itself. Overkill? Maybe but the 35-40 frames need all the help they can get in this situation .....
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2020
  12. Continued the hitch setup. I pulled out the last of the pieces to this hitch and saw that the one section had all of the holes drilled to match the plate....
    So I changed gears a bit and cut that section out of it. If was a two-for as I now have the portion I need and the ends for under the rear crossmember....
    I remeasured and got on it .....
    That certainly simplified things and made for easy decisions. I also cut the plate down for a better fit so it will be made up of 4 pieces vs 3 in the end.
    I am now in the process of drilling holes and cutting the final 8” piece or so I need to complete this one side. I am happy with the way it’s coming together .....
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2020
    brEad, loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  13. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,573


    The neatest hitch I've seen on here (and cppied for my '40) put a 1/4 " plate under the rear cross member with a tube extending back for the receiver. The plate bolted on using the former spring U-bolts and a tube tucked inside the rear spreader. Very clean and concealable.
    TomT and loudbang like this.
  14. Thank you for this posting. I will use the u-bolts as well and run, as of this writing, two pieces of 1x2 heavy wall tubing going to the back side of the hitch. But, I like your 1/4” plate idea - how was the gas tank clearance and how did you attach it to the hitch? Had to be removable and case you needed to remove the tank I guess? Any pics at all? What did d you tow with it? I am looking to be able to do 3k lbs .....

    Thanks again.....
  15. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,573


    The build is still in progress, but the build post I copied from claimed success. I used 2×2×1/4 tubing, with an off-the-shelf receiver pocket. Running the tube straight out flat to the crossmember passes it right under the gas tank. About 6" below the rear soreader channel. Im at work, will post pics when home if I remember.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    loudbang likes this.
  16. That sounds great - thank you !
    loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  17. Worked more on the hitch install and the passnger side is now done. I drilled all of the holes and all pieces have been cut and connected save for the cover for the parallel leaf setup .....
    I then started on the other side ....
    So far, so good ......
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2020
    brEad, loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  18. Not too much garage time today but some things got done. The replacement 40 Truck hood ornament came in today and is indeed in a bit better shape than the last one and it is not broken. After a bit of cleanup ...
    I am going to shoot it in matte clear but I am happy with the end result of my purchase. It worked out and that’s the way it should be. I was also able to finish primer sealing the hood ....
    I picked up most all the grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers I need for the hitch with the last most widely used bolt is ordered from McMaster car. I will need some additional grade 8 stuff but I’ll wait until I get to that point.

    I hope to paint the hood tomorrow but I will need to paint it inside the garage as it’s a bit cool tomorrow. That means I will have to conjure up a paint booth in the shop. I have an idea that I think will work .....
  19. So I set up my garage with a paint booth. Since I was not painting an entire car, I backed out the roadster and put up my ez-up in the garage....

    The fan worked out great after blocking off the garage door opening with cardboard. I had plastic on 3.5 sides and I had an entryway by the side garage door (normal entry door) and an exit through the makeshift paint booth into the rest of the garage. Basically, I made a hallway you could say. I have heat in the garage so I put it up to 65 and the thermometer in the booth said 64 the whole time. I laid down 3 coats on the hood ....
    ... and once painted, I rolled up the sides of the booth to get more heat throughout the entire garage.
    Things could not have worked out better. I will leave things as they are until I do my final shoot of the front fenders and any additional bits that need to be in color ...... I have left the heat on at 65 so the paint will have a chance to dry overnight .....

    Jumped another hurdle as I was hoping to have everything painted before cold weather hit but this turned out to be a great plan B ....
  20. Genius on the DIY inside booth!
    Where was the inlet and exhaust?

    loudbang likes this.
  21. Thank you, HotrodA - I had a fan up front pulling air out and the plastic sheeting wasn’t so tight along with the cardboard by the roll up door that it couldn’t pull in air from the rest of the garage area. The garage is 26x30 and it’s 13+ ft to the collar ties of the roof (Roof trusses would have negated any second level storage which has been a great help) so there is plenty of cubic ft there to pull from ......
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2020
  22. One final comment on the hood painting - of course after you paint you see so many more areas that could have used attention or further attention. Rookie mistake I guess I can call it - it is what it is but neither is the rest of the truck perfect ....,
  23. Looks ok from here! Git r dun and get to driving!
    loudbang likes this.
  24. Late start today but I got the shop cleaned up from the previous days painting and then went back to the hitch construction.

    The passenger side 1/4” plate is now done ....
    It’s ready to be tig welded together but I will leave it in place as I complete the driver side. Right now the driver side has most all its plate work done - I just need to drill my holes and crease the parallel leaf bracket plate like the passenger side ...
    It’s coming along and I am happy with it. I also made a pair of taillight brackets which I hope to mount tomorrow. Still working out the details of the support for the center of the hitch - almost there. Then I can move on to the bumper brackets, license plate install, back up light mounts, and the electrical plug locate and install for the rv and all of its electrical stuff ....

    It’s getting there ..... a lot of stuff is getting crossed off my to do list.
    loudbang, lothiandon1940 and brEad like this.
  25. No garage work today - gathered some supplies and steel I need to finish the hitch. The rest of the day, honey do’s .....
    loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  26. Got back to work today and since it was so nice out I worked on the chest for the back of the truck. I wiped it down with soap and water but lightly. Once dry I went over it with mineral spirits. I then removed the sticker ....
    Working from the inside out, I used the Helmsman as I did on the bedwood, and put two coats on tbe interior of the chest and the tray. While waiting for it to dry I worked on the hitch install. I found some Ubolts for the rear crossmember and mounted the two pieces I cut off the original hitch. I ordered and will pick up the last of the steel I need to complete the hitch tomorrow and hopefully shoot the exterior of the chest in the matte clear I purchased at Carlisle while I continue working on the hitch in between painting the chest ....
  27. Well, the best laid plans sometimes do not pan out. Got the rest of the steel I need for the hitch this am. The weather was brisk but nice so I took by the coupe. It was a great ride. Got home, set everything up to paint and the gun crapped out. It shot air ok but no paint. I cleaned it several times to no avail so I made a run to HF and bought their cheap gun. Of course I took the coupe again ! Unfortunately my regulator would not screw on to the HF gun, so I had to spend $30 and get the one with the regulator. It works out ok though because now the small detail gun, which is an HF gun and the regulator would not screw up to it, will also connect to it. So, I really got two guns out of the deal. But, by the time I got home, the best I could hope for would be 1, maybe 2 coats on the box and I really wanted 3or4 so I will wait to paint until tomorrow. I also need to paint the under lip of the hood so I have that all masked off for paint n Sat.

    I feel like I have an assembly line going here!
  28. After finishing taping off the hood, with the new spray gun I was finally able to spray color on the lip of the hood and matte clear on the chest .....
    I like the little bit of sheen of the matte clear but man that stuff was tuff on getting my spray gun clean. I worked on the gun for a good half hour before I got all the gummy white stuff out of the gun. There’s a little filter that came with the gun that inserts just below the cup. I guess I will use that from now on when shooting the matte clear.

    All that’s left on the hood is any overspray on the satin black painted hood underside and it’s ready to be fitted to the truck.

    Are there any tricks on mounting the hood on the truck for the first time? I have the cowl hinges to set up and the spring arms so any words of wisdom on making a clean install I am all ears .....
    The 39 guy, brEad, loudbang and 2 others like this.
  29. Go over to the Ford Barn and search for Kube's instructions for installing the sheetmetal on these things.

    I slung the hood on my '40 from my engine hoist; adjusted it to hang at the correct angle to match the hinges and etc. and bolted it on by myself.
    loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  30. Thanks, warbird1 - your advice was spot on as I just finished messaging Kube on the Fordbarn for any hints/tips etc, I then checked the build thread, and there was your advice! Great minds think alike!
    loudbang, warbird1 and lothiandon1940 like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!


Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.