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Projects '40 ford modified hot rod truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 2345.coupe, Nov 16, 2013.

  1. Drive Em
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    Drive Em
    Member

    I am not being a critical a$$hole, but I feel I should correct something. There is no thing as one wheel drive. An open differential will still apply power equally to both wheels, only when traction is lost will power go to the wheel that is unloaded the most. Millions of vehicles were built with open differentials, and will continue to be built that way. I see lots of people who actually believe that using an open diff will have them driving around with power at one wheel all the time. Keep going on your project, you have the will and the drive to get it done.
     
  2. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    you're correct, I have to get my terminology and wording correct so were both on the same page.I want to have two tires burning rather than just one. I hope that explains it.
    Thanks for the correct definition and the positive comments about my will and drive.

    yea ,I know man....the 6 or the 8, luxury problems, I'm blessed with luxury problems.........
     
  3. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,711

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    Well a 3 spd toploader will mate to either engine and they're usually cheap. I scored mine for $75 as a cast off from a Mustang's T5 conversion. The 351/T5 combo might not be a bad plan either.

    The benefits to using the 351 will become apparent pretty quick, starting with the motor mounts. I'm having to fab mine entirely since I don't want the look of the OE style. You can get tons of off the shelf solutions for a 351 where the 300's aftermarket support is mainly 4x4 oriented.

    Running a 300 is still pretty cool in my book though :cool:
     
  4. dynaflash
    Joined: Apr 1, 2008
    Posts: 506

    dynaflash
    Member
    from South

    Hey. What are you doing for a grill? You have the fenders and hood etc?


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  5. ChefMike
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 647

    ChefMike
    Member

  6. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't have fenders or hood.......I might use a 35 chevy car grille, not sure yet. I don't have a complete plan for this build like a lot of you guys have for your projects. I've changed in the fact I'm doing more "homework" before I act. Also asking advice before acting.

    I'm 99.9% sure it's a '40 big truck cab. You know what they say,"if it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, swims like a duck, craps like a duck, it's probably a duck." My plan is to register her as a forty and run N.Y.S. '40 vintage tags.
     
  7. duke460
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 192

    duke460
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Keep going on the build and congrats to handling the criticism. Don't give up on the 300 six. I had one in and econoline with a Clifford manifold, small 4 barrel and home made headers. Huge amounts of torque but limited on rpm. Fun off the line in stop light street racing.

    Good to see the improved welds. I have experience from your point of view.
     
  8. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    Like the approach your taking. Give me ideas and encouragement for mine. Keep posting
     
  9. CKC27
    Joined: Jan 8, 2013
    Posts: 118

    CKC27
    Member

    I just read through the post and the build is coming out pretty cool. At first i was kinda wondering where the build was going but reading on your improving .... Which we all started not knowing shit to learning every day.... Asking for help and a watchful eye is cool (and safe) but having some body do it for you doesn't teach anything..... Btw, I have a little fenderless truck with an open rear end and it goes great. She doesn't weigh shit and the nose is lite on her so i think a posies might be a personal preference... And i think the 300 is pretty cool myself.
     
  10. CKC27
    Joined: Jan 8, 2013
    Posts: 118

    CKC27
    Member

    O ya..... I love how people get on hear and want to cast there opinions like "i think the tires that close to the cab will look goofy" or "this is like posting a Mustang on a Vett site" or my favorite " this is border line a.k.a ratrod".... Who gives a shit where the tires are located.... And a ratrod is an unsafe piece of shit with spikes welded to or no floor pan or mabey someone taking a body that was super roached and giving it another life... I have a 42 chevy truck on a 30 A frame with 37 frt bones... all rebuilt to be like new and safe... im 32 this my hotrod this is what is available to me at a fair price. I by all rites should own a tuner car or some shit... I have old timers in my club say we need more young guys in the hobby, life style, game what ever... So until i win the lottery or someone gives me a 32 this is what we can build is trucks like this ford or my 42... This is our vision of a hotrod.... Building something from nothing.....Build looks great keep it up. Look forward to seeing more.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2013
  11. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,475

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great job on your build. Looks like a 1 ton 40 Ford . A Friend of mine had one that he gave to his Brother .
     
  12. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    thanks.....maybe I'm not being realistic, but I want a combination of a cool looking hot rod truck, cruiser plus a tire roaster.

    thanks man

    thanks man....pm me a pic of your truck.
    It's interesting , I'm trying to convince myself not to change the front end. So we'll see. I have learned to be open minded to other people "suggestions". I'll study it then make a decision.
    Yea, "have somebody do your welding for you", that just enables me to never improve. I must add that I know my limits and would have my buddy, the pro welder, weld on a suicide spring perch for me. I would watch him ,ask question, and try my hand at it on some scrap pieces.
     
  13. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    good eye......
     
  14. CKC27
    Joined: Jan 8, 2013
    Posts: 118

    CKC27
    Member

    Ya ill get you some pics soon for sure.. And thats what i did... started with scrap then moved on from there.. .. look forward to seeing more progress..
     
  15. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    she's not a dead horse any more, she's a roller.......going with the inline 6, 300, and the '65 toploader 3 speed.....
    in the process of making new frame motor mounts......
    also my new limited slip unit........
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  16. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    got the mounts fabricated and motor bolted in........
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  17. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    my buddy and I got her running today.....not quite sure which way the carb should face. Have to do more research on that. She sounds real good. Glass, and rebel wire kit ordered.........Going to run the '37 plymouth grille. I think it fits the build.
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  18. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,711

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    That looks to be the right way to mount the carb, based on what I've been told by 300 guys.

    Your carb and valve cover are up there. What are you going to do as far as hood and/or air cleaner?
     
  19. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    open motor, no hood.....6" air cleaner with way cool topper
     
  20. Don Martin
    Joined: Nov 2, 2006
    Posts: 158

    Don Martin
    Member
    from West Tenn

    A sandblaster would help clean the metal before you weld, just saying. You get a better weld on clean metal as opposed to rusty metal.
     
  21. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    I don't recall what the front axle and frame is. Looks to be F100, 53 thru 56. Am I correct?
     
  22. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    it's a '48 f-1 frame and front axle
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
  23. jammersspeed
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 347

    jammersspeed
    Member
    from herman mn.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  24. I agree with you there, Don...I see so much building on the hamb, and guys are welding rusty floors and frames.?? I do not understand.. I blast the whole thing, then weld ???
     
  25. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    patch panel work, door skins, door bottoms, cab corners... .etc.
    gonna go the bare metal look.... ,Gibbs route......I like that look.......
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    Last edited: Jan 18, 2014
  26. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    made a radiator/grille support....using a '65-'66 mustang repo 3 row aluminum radiator.Decided to run a electric pusher fan. I not sure ,but I think the grille could be from a '35 chevy, closed car.......
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  27. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,246

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    the hot rod is coming along nicely.......one of the things that really bugged me was the radiator/grille location-look.....the grille was higher than the hood line on the top of the cowl.
    To remedy the issue we made a new crossmember that sat 4' lower. Here's what we came up with.
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  28. lukey
    Joined: May 27, 2009
    Posts: 668

    lukey
    Member

    I'm liking it! I could tell you what I would personally change, but it's not mine, it's yours...if you are happy, that's all that matters! The 6 cyl is cool ! Bet it's gonna be a blast to drive.


    -LUKEY-
     
  29. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,457

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I can tell your working hard on this build and I applaud your efforts but bro, for real, please rethink the nose proportions. You can change it now, your nor too far down the road. Nobody is doing you any favors by not pointing that out.

    Roll that truck outside and walk around it and visualize the finished project.
     
    Saxon likes this.
  30. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    I just read through your whole thread, and am impressed with both your enthusiasm and your ability to handle some fairly harsh criticism that you have been dealt. I hope you can handle some more given with the best of intentions.

    I think it is time to lose the parallel leaf spring front end. The front axle centerline of your truck needs to come fairly seriously forward to balance the shortness of your frame's rear. Basically, what needs to happen is the front axle centerline needs to end up under your radiator/grill shell centerline. It won't be simple fix, but you seem pretty capable of changing on the fly as you work your way though this build, and that is another good trait. A spring over dropped tube or beam axle and radius rods or hairpins would be the best way to go, and this is why you see this sort of front suspension on most hot rods... Pure and simple packaging. This type of set up is available from aftermarket from companies like Speedway starting in the 600.00 range, and could reuse your spindles and disc brakes from the current front axle.

    How I would approach this, would be to first move your engine back closer to the fire wall, and down quite a bit as well. Ideally, it would fit beneath an "imaginary" hood line. Once that was done, I'd pull the front suspension, and make a flat cross member fairly similar to a Model "A" type to span the front rails with just enough room for a fan to radiator clearance of about 1"-1 1/2" then nail it all together. From there cut any excess frame horns forward of the cross member off and discard them.

    It would be a bloody lot of work, but it would improve the proportions of your truck 100%, and is probably closer to what you see in your minds eye for this truck. I am actually a huge fan of this style of truck when done correctly, and what I have suggested will get you damn close.

    I hope you take this as what it is intended, constructive criticism from someone who has been at this stuff for many years, and is an obsessive "mock it up and stare at it" kinda guy before any fab is done.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.

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