Ok, so I change out my over head sprung axle due to bad camber.. new axle pin fit is good...taper pin fits good but only from one side...not a problem...all holes are good...I transferred every thing from the other axle...every thing was new...both axles are 1940..all parts are vintage USA made...I did notice that the king pin holes on the old axle are offset to the inside...see pic, on the replacement they are dead center in the axle boss..so when I put in the king pin lock pin it goes in about 1/8 pass flush on the replacement axle on one side and about 1/16 th one the other...I know it just holds the pin from rotating and from popping out..is there a service pin ??? I have 5 other axles and none have this problem all of then the pin is near flush...I also noticed there is a difference in the length of my tie rod...had to adjust it out almost 1/2 to get the same toe adjustment...I know people say there is no front or back to the axle... but the fact that the taper pin holes being 1/16th smaller on one side makes me think there is any advise about the recessed pins...thank you
The lock pin hole is 9/16" diameter. I would check out the holes and OK; try some other pins. I've had to reuse old pins because new ones weren't right. King pin bores are sometimes off a bit, yours looks on the extreme; but the axle should be still be in spec on kingpin bore centers. The camber issue on your first axle could probably be fixed with a press.
Rich I thought about that after I posted...I will have to dig thru my pile of crap to see if I still have some ...the holes are just over 1/2" not 9/16...it is probably OK cause the king pins are cinched down tight in place... it just bugs me and my OCD hates it
I think the lock pin has a slight taper and is installed backwards, the nut serves as a steering stop and goes on the rear of the axle. There is a small dished spot on the back of the spindle where the nut stops the spindle at full turn. The stock spindle pin nuts are shown below and are listed as a spindle bolt stop nut.
How will the rod ends on the Mustang II power rack connect to the spindles the way the chassis is configured, and have you considered the bump steer the car will have? If the rack was axle mounted that would negate bump steer but then you need a way to handle movement between the input shaft of the rack and the steering column.
vega steering shafts were D or double D for about 6" could you use that to let it slide with travel ?
The smaller diameter taper pin hole should be to the back as the nut usually either serves as the stop for how far the spindle turns or holds the the piece that serves as a stop. I'm not understanding why that rack is used at all on that car and can't see any way that setup will steer right unless you are just using one side of it running to a steering arm on the spindle. Even then you will get some crazy bump steer. To me it looks like rat rod engineering. A decent cross steer setup behind the axle would work a lot better and be ten times safer.
Makes no difference weather the pin enters from front or back side if you have no need for the stop, pins are not tapered.. just the key way is tapered. as far as the steering I have designed a dropped arm system that will keep the steering drag link level and will be a cross steer set up... the pic is showing the rack way above the steering arm it is not, it is the angle of the picture.. fixed the pin problem, i knurled the key part that goes in the the king pin slot...nice fit now
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