I am building a 40 Chevy coupe. I am at the point a final decision must be made on the transmission. The car is going to be used for cruising, and a few times a year, drag racing. I started the build wanting a gasser, but some of my decisions make it more of an early 70's street freak. I am using a 4" drop axle, it still sets high enough. Engine is still somewhat undecided as I have a few SBC & BBC options. Blown 377 sbc or 496 bbc. Either way, it's 600+ hp. I feel the need to put a 4 speed in it, but I already have a 4 speed car and I sure miss the brake when the green comes on. I don't normally look for others opinions on my builds, but this time I am looking for someone that can make me see the light. (not the big red one). Cost on either or is about the same. So, convince me please. P.S. front wheels are gone, new ones match the back. Automatic. Pros - I love a good glide with trans brake and stall converter. Cons - Cant run in some of the events I would like to attend with an Auto. Manual Pros - I can run in those events. Cons - I set it up for an automatic, I have run many drag cars with 4 speeds, have consistency problems, miss the glide with brake on the volvoid.
Your crazy if you think a 4speed set-up (trans, blowshield. clutch, flywheel, shifter, pedals, etc) that will live behind 600hp on the strip will cost the same as a glide setup......try double or triple.....also you will need an even stronger driveline with the 4speed because it will be harder on parts (bolt through case for rear - assuming 9 inch, axles, driveshaft) the stick will be one more thing to set up and as said will eat parts.....That said, go with the 4-speed.....
4 speed, hands down! Better make your decision based on the torque handling capabilities of the trans. I chose the Richmond Super T-10. I'd reccomend visiting the threads that focus on @Quain Stott and his South East Gasser group, they have the 4 speed thing figured out. http://www.southeastgassers.com/racers
Hell Yes I'm crazy! But, I have learned to live with it! The cost is minimal when added to the build cost. Glide with aftermarket case, all the goodies is about $500.00 less than a new 4-5 speed and necessary parts. I have some of the goods already for the manual, scatter shield, flywheel, so in this case, it will actually cost me less, but more work. Drive line is solid, 9" rear, currie axles and center section. I am an ex nhra weekend warrior with a lot of time on the strip, that makes it more difficult for me to go with the manual. Guess that's why I'm looking for someone to convince me.
well, need to make a commitment to motor - small/big blocks both have good qualities - built powerglide/ maybe 400 or true 4/5speed built for street/strip - bulletproof rearend - no matter what you do there will have to be compromises on street & strip
Small block, 4-speed. Big block, automatic. The manual will live longer behind the small block due to its lower torque output. Besides, real hot rods have three pedals...
That's horse shit ! See I have a left hip that's really pissed off. my stuff won't ever be 3 pedal hot rod and it won't ever be a 2 pedal street rod. Street rods are creature comforts wrapped up with an old body and replica Tupperware cars are kit cars.
If you're gonna bracket race it (you mentioned consistency), automatic. If you wanna have fun, 4-speed.
If you want a nice street experience that you can also take to the track, a try a street style diaphragm twin. The capacity might seem overkill, but add a buffer like the ClutchTamer and you will be able to launch it at the track effectively without killing everything behind it. Grant
Can't use the blower or a twin disc clutch in the Southeast Gassers. A super T-10 will not last long behind a 600 hp motor doing banzai holeshots. I would consider a TKO600 as a starting point or contact Charlie Hightower for one of his hand built 4 speeds. Jerico is another option. If you are not going to run with the Southeast Gassers then I would go with a TH400 with a brake. I did a simple rebuild with good parts and a trans brake on one that was in a 10 second 4,000 lb car with a Reher and Morrison 496 that dyno'd at over 600 hp. It lasted 3 years of street driving and drag strip use before the convertor came apart. A B&M convertor. That is when I had Allen Pope of Callahan Florida build me a real good convertor.
https://www.midwestmuncie.com/product/new-auto-gearsuper-case-muncie-m22-rock-crusher/ half the cost of a G Force, Jerico or Hightower http://clutchtamer.com/ for $150 seems better than a $2000+ soft lok that is not for the street
Definitely talk with Auto Gear and get their opinion. I'm pushing 400+ HP through an M20, so far so good and I haven't broken anything... yet. Mc Leod makes a 5-speed you may want to look at. Automatics can run into serious change. I'm looking at them now for an OT build I'm gathering info on.
Have the left pedal operate a ball valve like the circle track guys use. Run a full manual VB with engine braking. Launch on the converter but use the "clutch" to finesse your downshifts.
Thanks for all the input. Gave it alot of thought last night. I sold my drag car this spring, it was a 406 w/glide. I miss it. I am going to my original plan, use the 377 and a glide w/ brake. I have another project for the 496. The 377 is currently in my 59 Vette, without the blower, but it was built as a blower motor. I have the 327 to go back into the 59. It's a true vette motor, it's only down a few ponies from the low comp 377 that's in it now. The vette will be able to run in the vintage classes with the 327 back in it. So I have the bases covered, I'll keep the vette so I can experience the southeast gasser events, the 40 can run brackets and grudge nights. problem solved.
I'm using a 400 behind my blown 427. No brake, no expensive tiny converter, had a best 60' time of 1.43 last week, running low tens. I only have about a grand in my transmission and converter. But I go to a lot of effort to be a cheapskate. And I like using stuff that was available 50 years ago.
My opinion only but I say go stick. My street car is a 350hp 327 with a .480 lift Isky and an old Muncie 4sdp. I just like driving it so much more than a glide. Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My 400 was a junkyard find and a Stock rebuild with red clutches. A TCI transbrake and a deep pan. Nothing fancy less than $ 1500 including the convertor. Not so costly if you can read and make your hands do what you are reading. Midwest Muncie seems like a good alternative if you can believe the hype. Haven't seen any actual tests on their stuff. I would love to see it hold up. There used to be nothing that powershifted like a well setup Muncie. I called McLeod about their 5 speed for my gasser when I was going be using a 306 small block and they said they would not recommend it for racing. That 500 ft lb torque rating is for street tires on the street, not a prepped track.
That is good to know about the 5spd. I was actually considering going that way on a project that would see track time. Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I still love to row gears as well as the next guy but my left knee gets whiny about holding a stiff clutch down for any length of time. That said, damned few of us can row gears as quick and accurate as a well prepared automatic can. Both my truck and Model A are getting 5 speeds but neither will have what you would call a competition clutch. Hopefully neither clutch will take a lot of leg pressure to release. Neither is intended to be a drag car as both are going to be set up as reachers intended to do a lot of highway and biway miles.
GREAT THREAD. You all have good points on this, But this kind of car says "BANG MY GEARS" and jerk the front end up ever gear. I still live in the past and like it. This is my personal opinion only.
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