Hot Rods 4 speed clutch linkage

I want to put a clutch in my model a that I am building,I put a hydraulic to bearing but something is wrong and it is leaking. I have an old scatter shield that has a mount for a slave,I have a willwood 3/4 master.I need a slave that mounts on the ls of the scatter shield,a throw out bearing and arm to fit a ram 3 finger PP.I was told possible a 1960 chevy truck but there slave mounts on the rs. Ideas or info needed please. This is on a sbc with a vette 1961 T 10

 

Google... clutch slave cylinders . Many photos. Most have 3/4 bores. Once it’s on you can make an adjustable length rod. Wilwood sells one for the Mustang discs brakes set up by could easily be used for a clutch slave system.
Was the hydraulic T O bearing a McCleod? They all leak. Our RAM never has.

 

I did that already,It was a speedway,I think howe.

 

You should have a mechanical stop on your pedal to limit the stroke of your T/O bearing either way, or it could overstroke and leak as it sounds like it has.

 

May be worth having a look at this thread.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...clutch-m-c-that-looks-period-correct.1187271/

 

Been using McCleod for years and never had a problem with leaks...

 

I can't find the part so FAB it. that was how it was done pre 65

 

You must not leave it sit much. I’ve been their back shop many times as they leaked. They were always good about their products to me especially with clutches but for our 1/2 mile dirt car we had nothing but problems with the TO bearing. Other El Mirage said the same, might be from lack of use. Glad you haven’t had any problems.

 

Hydraulic throwout bearings, some swear by them, many swear at them!

 

I have had bad results with after market hyd clutch release brgs. They leaked and necessary to remove tranny to adjust free play. I like the outside slave cyl with the old style release arm. I suggest that the mast cyl & the slave cyl are the same bore diameter. Greg

 

Mcloud bearings are the best. The larger the bore the more pedal feel along with a shorter throw for disengagement.

 

This comes up all the time. To be successful you need parts that work together. You seldom see an OEM hydraulic clutch fail. A few things:
1. A hydraulic TOB for a race clutch typically does not have enough throw for a street clutch, so you over stroke it and it leaks.
2. Bore size of master and slave need to be compatible. The early 60s Chevy pickup master is something like 1 1/16".
3. You absolutely need a pedal stop to prevent over stroking the TOB. If not, it will leak.

 

Thank you all,I was told by the techs @speedway it had a stop built into the to bearing,I used a wilwood 3/4 master, It is a street Ram 404 pressure plate