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Technical 4 bar front axle?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by miller, Nov 5, 2019.

  1. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 501

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    ..After looking at the picture are the 4 bars connected correctly? Or should the adjusting end be toward the firewall?...thanks miller IMG_3131.JPG
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  2. partssaloon
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 676

    partssaloon
    Member

    Yep! mine are at the other end.
     
  3. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,396

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    Depends whether the bar or the adjuster has the angled end. Straight end goes on the bat-wing and the angled end on the frame.
     
    Cosmo50, LOU WELLS and OFT like this.
  4. Check,and adjust your caster to 7-9 degrees while your assembling .
     
    dana barlow likes this.

  5. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 501

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    The bar has the angled end and these are attached to the frame...so as the picture shows these are mounted correctly.....thanks to all for the replies miller
     
    LOU WELLS and Fordor Ron like this.
  6. If the bars are not the exact length top and bottom will the Caster change when he sits the car on the ground? Don't the bars push the Axle forward as the weight is added to the Axle? What will that cause?
     
  7. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,396

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    You should have weight on the axle before you adjust the bars
     
    X38 likes this.
  8. I thought you could adjust the camber by adjusting the length of the 4 bars on my model A but it didn't work. The spring is clamped firmly in the front crossmember so it won't rotate, and the shackles will bind if you twist them so I don't see how that will work. Placing a wedge under the spring won't work because the sides of the crossmember hold the spring so snug it can' rotate. You can buy an adjustable piece that holds the spring shackle to the axle which will allow the necessary rotation but I haven't heard how effective they are. Right now I am stuck with 2 deg. camber.
     
    Pist-n-Broke and deathrowdave like this.
  9. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,518

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    It’s tuff to adjust caster with a four bar . It should really be set as you stated , into the front cross member and spring mount as the frame is being built .
     
    Pist-n-Broke likes this.
  10. You got it. It's a total build package, not just a turn of the Rod End and with a Tube axle it's even more critical. What else in the first photo looks to be a built in problem?
     
  11. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,589

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    You're not totally stuck with that, if you need more you can make the adjustment with the cross member; which isn't a small job, but it's certainly doable.
     
  12. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Does that picture show that the steering rod was cut in the middle and welded back together???
     
  13. paul55
    Joined: Dec 1, 2010
    Posts: 3,490

    paul55
    Member
    from michigan

    I'm sure you mean caster and you could put a wedge between spring and the crossmember and adjust 4 bars accordingly.
     
  14. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 501

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    The steering rod was cut in the middle how ever it is not going to be used..thanks to all miller
     
  15. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I don't recall seeing on a Model A chassis the top 4 bar arm thru the chassis like that.
    The top arm pivot point is generally also thru part of the 4 bar chassis bracket.
    I don't think it should make too much difference especially if the car is going to be sitting low.
    Attached is a copy of the Pete & Jakes unit. 2003A-Four-Bar__16393_1553702685.png
     
    Pist-n-Broke likes this.
  16. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 501

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    .......take a look at pete and jakes 32 ford tech section and click on 3001-3004... it tells how the upper bolt goes through the frame...miller
     
  17. Is that a 32 Chassis?
     
  18. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,796

    Marty Strode
    Member

  19. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 501

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    ....yes 32...miller
     
  20. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,627

    The37Kid
    Member

    I would have used the bolt holes in the shock mount. Bob
     
  21. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    No problem then, I thought at first sight it was a model A frame.
     
  22. Yes, I did mean caster so thanks for noticing that.. The spring fits so snugly in the front crossmember that placing a wedge in between wouldn't work because the spring can't rotate to fit the new angle. I could make it work if I was willing to grind the spring width down some where it fits in the crossmember but I am reluctant to do that. The crossmember is in the stock position so I am surprised that the caster is only 2 degrees. A little bit of big 'n little tire combo and dropping the front more than the back for s slight rake must have altered the caster that much.
     
  23. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,903

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The self aligning spring perches work well but their appearance isn't as neat as the fixed type. But are you looking at this correctly? All I can see is the frame at an odd angle (gasser?), full spring installed, huge droop on the front suspension etc etc. I'd suggest you remove the spring, mock everything up at ride height / angle from which you'll then be able to establish what if anything is needed. Having said that, you must surely have done that already in your mocking up prior to welding the parts you've already installed? That being the case I'm confused as to how you've got to the place you're at. I hope you've not changed plan part way through! If you have or you've erred somewhere you'll most likely be getting some grinding / cutting and more welding practice!

    Chris
     
    Pist-n-Broke likes this.
  24. One of the things I was taught long time ago is for good Axle action once done meaning Vehicle finished and driving the Ride Height and Ground Profile should have been factored in so that the 4 Bar is parallel to the Ground. This is so that the Axle travels above and below this line to keep push pull to a minimum through that arc. To me that top photo says as your Axle comes down to loaded ride height your shackles are going to be paying a serious price. Someone tell me if I'm way off base. Kits and instructions will only get you so far along.
     

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