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3x2 Rochester mods?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by oldnuts, May 1, 2012.

  1. oldnuts
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 355

    from nebraska

    Sorry if this is a dumb question but I'm looking for some pointers on setting up a 3x2 with Rochester 2gcs for my y block. I can't seem to find any info on what needs to be done to the 1st and 3rd carb to make them work with a progressive setup. If you guys could give me some pointers or even a how to link that would be great. Thanks in advance oldnuts
  2. Here is a picture of the carb rebuild instruction sheet.
    When you read the paragraph above the illustration, it says "on secondary carbs, do not use choke, idle and power valve parts".

    That's as far as I am, on my setup, but still got a lot of questions myself...
  3. detroitboy27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2008
    Posts: 108

    from katy, tx

    I'm in the middle of rebuilding my triple deuce setup. Speedway has a nice rebuild kit, a little pricey but not too bad. Also search you tube, stacey david of gears did a rebuild which I found extremely helpful.
  4. Jimv
    Joined: Dec 5, 2001
    Posts: 2,924


    I did mine( Primaries into secondaries).There is a Rod & custom article that explains it well.But i don't have one to tell ya about the details.
    What you basically have to do is remove the top of the carbs, then unscrew the power valve out, Then i took some lead fishing sinkers( I had them, but 00 buckshot also works)And i filled the PV hole with them, I used a a flat punch to mush them in there good.
    Note: at first i used epoxy put it got soft after a few years.
    Next i removed the air adjustment screws & fill them in with more lead & mashed them in, you can use the adjustment screws & just tighten them in, but its "iffy" then.They stick out a little into the throats.
    Theres also 2 brass tubes you can remove in the carb venturi cluster( # 37 on print) but i forgot what i did with those( gettin old i guess!)
    Now on mine i disconnected the accel. pumps , but found that it ran better with them hooked up..
    They've been on my car about 10yrs & about 60,000 miles & they work great,
    Hope this helps alittle.
    PS one note, whenever you do anything on carbs you have to turn them over & the little balls that sit under the accelarator pumps fall out, they act as a check valve.Its real important to but it back in! It just squirds weak stream of gas into the throats without it & it will drive ya crazy about whats wrong with the acceleration, Bogs alot.
    Also go to AZ or a local parts place for the kits, just get the tag number & use it to get them, there cheap! Ya don't need to pay speedway, prices & shipping. And remove all the choke parts on the outboard carbs too & linkage.and make sure the the butterflies close tight.But don't stick!
    Last edited: May 1, 2012

  5. 26 roadster
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 2,017

    26 roadster

    There is a Rochester group that has all this info
  6. Lots of good information so far. Thanks guys!

    I tried to send you the whole manual a few weeks ago, but you never responded, so I wasn't sure if you got it. Should have been in a PM.

    What's the part number you're missing?
  7. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,221


    These are original Olds J2 Rochester trips on my Olds in a 40 Ford. Early Ford firewall throttle linkage was on the passenger side, so my linkage setup style is not often seen.

    The center carb has a "longer than stock" throttle shaft mod that was done 50 years ago.

    I had a big pile of NOS Eelco linkake pieces, and came up with this.

    The long link for the 2 outboards does not move until that other link with what looks like "the head of a nail", finally gets pulled by the main arm.

    All depends on what parts you have and which side you want to work with.

    Attached Files:

  8. The piece right above 48? Big piece with 3 tangs?

    No, I sent you a PM. I'll try it again.
  9. Will350z
    Joined: Nov 11, 2010
    Posts: 94


  10. Dirty2
    Joined: Jun 13, 2004
    Posts: 8,903


    Good info .
  11. 52Poncho
    Joined: Apr 23, 2011
    Posts: 256


  12. lowelife
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 400


    I have mine on my 348 set up like F&J does. It runs just off the center until about 50% throttle then the front and back start coming in. At full throttle they all are wide open.
    I did have to open up the jets to get it to run right from idle. I was told this was because of the tri-power intake design. ?
  13. oldnuts
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 355

    from nebraska

    Thanks for the great info guys. I'm gonna try and get started tonight.
  14. I just got the whole instruction sheet with all the adjustment data scanned.
    If you want a copy, just shoot me a PM with your email address. I'll send it out to you.
  15. I think I got what you need.
    Let me check and see if I need any of it for my setup (which I should have enough parts from all my cores) and I'll get with you.
  16. 55Hydramatic
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 459


  17. blackbee
    Joined: May 26, 2012
    Posts: 3


    Watching this, I'm Looking for a nice 3 2g setup for the nailhead
  18. Don't wait too long, they are getting expensive. Rock Valley sent me a rebuilt one for 132.00 plus a $50 core charge. Not a bad way to go. I ordered a '65 283 2bbl.
  19. FANTM58
    Joined: Apr 24, 2009
    Posts: 406


    If you need any help with the progressive linkage, I made mine and it turned out pretty good. And a lot cheaper than a kit !!
    I have a thread on there Called setting up my six pack
    There are pics of the set up.
    I can get you better, more detailed info if needed.

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