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3x2 Rochester mods?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by oldnuts, May 1, 2012.

  1. oldnuts
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 355

    oldnuts
    Member
    from nebraska

    Sorry if this is a dumb question but I'm looking for some pointers on setting up a 3x2 with Rochester 2gcs for my y block. I can't seem to find any info on what needs to be done to the 1st and 3rd carb to make them work with a progressive setup. If you guys could give me some pointers or even a how to link that would be great. Thanks in advance oldnuts
     
  2. Here is a picture of the carb rebuild instruction sheet.
    [​IMG]
    When you read the paragraph above the illustration, it says "on secondary carbs, do not use choke, idle and power valve parts".

    That's as far as I am, on my setup, but still got a lot of questions myself...
     
  3. detroitboy27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2008
    Posts: 108

    detroitboy27
    Member
    from katy, tx

    I'm in the middle of rebuilding my triple deuce setup. Speedway has a nice rebuild kit, a little pricey but not too bad. Also search you tube, stacey david of gears did a rebuild which I found extremely helpful.
     
  4. Jimv
    Joined: Dec 5, 2001
    Posts: 2,924

    Jimv
    Member

    I did mine( Primaries into secondaries).There is a Rod & custom article that explains it well.But i don't have one to tell ya about the details.
    What you basically have to do is remove the top of the carbs, then unscrew the power valve out, Then i took some lead fishing sinkers( I had them, but 00 buckshot also works)And i filled the PV hole with them, I used a a flat punch to mush them in there good.
    Note: at first i used epoxy put it got soft after a few years.
    Next i removed the air adjustment screws & fill them in with more lead & mashed them in, you can use the adjustment screws & just tighten them in, but its "iffy" then.They stick out a little into the throats.
    Theres also 2 brass tubes you can remove in the carb venturi cluster( # 37 on print) but i forgot what i did with those( gettin old i guess!)
    Now on mine i disconnected the accel. pumps , but found that it ran better with them hooked up..
    They've been on my car about 10yrs & about 60,000 miles & they work great,
    Hope this helps alittle.
    JimV
    PS one note, whenever you do anything on carbs you have to turn them over & the little balls that sit under the accelarator pumps fall out, they act as a check valve.Its real important to but it back in! It just squirds weak stream of gas into the throats without it & it will drive ya crazy about whats wrong with the acceleration, Bogs alot.
    Also go to AZ or a local parts place for the kits, just get the tag number & use it to get them, there cheap! Ya don't need to pay speedway, prices & shipping. And remove all the choke parts on the outboard carbs too & linkage.and make sure the the butterflies close tight.But don't stick!
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2012

  5. 26 roadster
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 2,017

    26 roadster
    Member

    There is a Rochester group that has all this info
     
  6. Lots of good information so far. Thanks guys!

    I tried to send you the whole manual a few weeks ago, but you never responded, so I wasn't sure if you got it. Should have been in a PM.

    What's the part number you're missing?
     
  7. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,221

    F&J
    Member

    These are original Olds J2 Rochester trips on my Olds in a 40 Ford. Early Ford firewall throttle linkage was on the passenger side, so my linkage setup style is not often seen.

    The center carb has a "longer than stock" throttle shaft mod that was done 50 years ago.


    I had a big pile of NOS Eelco linkake pieces, and came up with this.

    The long link for the 2 outboards does not move until that other link with what looks like "the head of a nail", finally gets pulled by the main arm.


    All depends on what parts you have and which side you want to work with.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. The piece right above 48? Big piece with 3 tangs?

    No, I sent you a PM. I'll try it again.
     
  9. Will350z
    Joined: Nov 11, 2010
    Posts: 94

    Will350z
    Member

  10. Dirty2
    Joined: Jun 13, 2004
    Posts: 8,903

    Dirty2
    Member

    Good info .
     
  11. 52Poncho
    Joined: Apr 23, 2011
    Posts: 256

    52Poncho
    Member

  12. lowelife
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 400

    lowelife
    Member

    I have mine on my 348 set up like F&J does. It runs just off the center until about 50% throttle then the front and back start coming in. At full throttle they all are wide open.
    I did have to open up the jets to get it to run right from idle. I was told this was because of the tri-power intake design. ?
     
  13. oldnuts
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 355

    oldnuts
    Member
    from nebraska

    Thanks for the great info guys. I'm gonna try and get started tonight.
     
  14. I just got the whole instruction sheet with all the adjustment data scanned.
    If you want a copy, just shoot me a PM with your email address. I'll send it out to you.
     
  15. I think I got what you need.
    Let me check and see if I need any of it for my setup (which I should have enough parts from all my cores) and I'll get with you.
     
  16. 55Hydramatic
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 459

    55Hydramatic
    Member

  17. blackbee
    Joined: May 26, 2012
    Posts: 3

    blackbee
    Member

    Watching this, I'm Looking for a nice 3 2g setup for the nailhead
     
  18. Don't wait too long, they are getting expensive. Rock Valley sent me a rebuilt one for 132.00 plus a $50 core charge. Not a bad way to go. I ordered a '65 283 2bbl.
     
  19. FANTM58
    Joined: Apr 24, 2009
    Posts: 406

    FANTM58
    Member

    If you need any help with the progressive linkage, I made mine and it turned out pretty good. And a lot cheaper than a kit !!
    I have a thread on there Called setting up my six pack
    There are pics of the set up.
    I can get you better, more detailed info if needed.
     

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