Projects 3D Printer Advice?

I have been toying with the idea of buying a 3d printer to help me make odd things that I might not be able to fab out of metal, like , hmm, let's say a special headlamp ring, or dash knobs, or maybe some shaped ring that lets me adapt a paper filter element inside an old oil bath, or maybe just a weird hood ornament, or maybe just a custom trim emblem, or a custom fender name badge..

Have they gotten good enough to make a headlight rim or tail light housing that doesnt look like a kids cheap toy?
I see some on ebay in the 600$ range, but I have trouble imagining they could be more than a kids toy at that price.
Does anyone know a good source for a good printer at affordable prices similar to buying a welder?
Or am I dreaming?
I certainly cannot afford a laser cutter price, but possibly welder prices...
Where do I look for good reliable info on how to shop or buy the right one?
I know the most common reply will likely be "depends on what you want to make", but Im not even sure of that right now.
I am working on a custom bike that I want to make some stiff but flexible intake boots to fit the carbs, and I can see custom tail lights in the future, and possible special ac vents in an old truck of mine.
Stuff like that for a start.
WHERE DO I LOOK to find out what I need to know?

THANKS!


WHY BE ORDINARY ?

 

You realize that the affordable ones only print with plastic, right?

 

Yep . plastic filament.
That's why I only mentioned things like knobs, badges, vent openings, adapting one air passage shape to another, etc.

I did see one video that showed someone making really nice plastic gears with one, but I cant find it again.


WHY BE ORDINARY ?

 

If you have the files for the stuff you want to print. You can send it to shapeways to print. Prices have come down a lot.
you can also find local printers or forums like this one. That way you can test out small parts and see how they print before you buy the whole thing.

Just know that filament printers will still have build lines. Which even with sanding, look like shit IMO. Then painting and finishing. Maybe for some industrial type knobs yeah. But to replicate even a Ford dash know you can get for 20.00. I would go with the repop first.

A lot people think that 3D printing is just pop the part of the plate and use it.

I would sooner lathe out some knobs if I want stuff that I’ll get real use of of.

I have been working with 3D Files And 3D printing For a very long time. It still just getting to the point to where you still have to have some craftsman talent to make stuff look great.

you should look at the 3D print as a tool and material that will get you to making a mold or a show piece easier. In essence I sometimes use the print to clean up, and mold in RTV Then cast as parts as are needed.
The visions of printing natural rubber feeling parts that withstand useage with heat and wear and tear is not there yet for the regular joe.
Look for the 3D printed Ford dash part thread. I believe they farmed out the printing.

Look for a local Hobbyist 3D printing group

 

This Thread might give you some help...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1935-ford-waterfall.1178935/

 

Ok....your first post sounded a lot more ambitious than your second post....

My brother and my kids have 3d printers, and so does our robotics team, and I've never felt any urge at all to try to make any car parts using the process. But then I do have quite a bit of (manual) metalworking equipment, and I'm pretty adept at scrounging parts.

If you have some CNC metalworking equipment, it might be reasonable to add a 3d printer to your shop so you can mock up designs in plastic, before finalizing them in metal.

 

Dare -

Don't pay any attention to the sad doubters here..!
I've seen some guys do some really nice things with todays "plastic" printers.
I bought a 1/32 scale (slot car) body from a guy a year or so back that didn't require but just a few minutes with some 400 grit sandpaper to make it nice and ready for paint.
The guy did a REALLY nice job with the design. Door handle details, tail light and head light details, the stainless trim around the windshield and back glass...all there and well dimensioned per the rest of the body shape.
Strength wise, slot car frames/chassis's are also part of the mix. They can be made to take some pretty hard hits (hard enough to nearly break fingers !) from a solid guard rail without falling apart.

Full sized headlight rings and tail light housings that are to be painted rather than chrome, should be a snap...as long as you can use one of the many CAD programs. If the guy noted above can get the angles correct on a tiny little 1/32 car, should be easy to get full sized stuff well shaped. Getting used to the way that they work and being able to modify your first program continually until you get the part(s) shape that you want.

One thing, todays machines have become more specific as to the type of plastic to be used, the heat that the plastic needs. The "fineness" of the material "lay". Like I said above, the body I received only took a little sanding to become a nice smooth surface.
Do a lot of manufacturer calling, get FIRST hand information from the machine manufacturers. NOT asking people that have only second, third hand information.

I say if you don't mind doing some upfront learning to understand todays equipment...go for it.

Mike

 

Mike, what car parts have you made with 3d printing?

Sent from my Trimline

 

We 3D print an enormous variety of prototype test parts at work. These include support structures to retain five, and six figure dollar sensors, to the outside of moving vehicles, that operate on public roads.

We also print flexible structures to act as gaskets, boots, and grommets.

It is all about how much money you want to spend, if you want to do this at home. Outside facilities can take your designs and print them for you.

 

Making things to mount sensors is about all we use the printer for on the robots, too. Not much use for that on traditional hot rods.

Sent from my Trimline

 

Not the point of my post.

My point is that if we can produce smooth, and intricate parts, that are strong enough to hold a $175,000 lidar safely, at 65mph, you can print about any non-structural part you want.

So, dashboard parts, shift knobs, console parts, bezels, gauge pods, waterfalls, trim, horn buttons, glovebox doors, ornaments, lenses, reflectors, and emblems are all of no use on a rod or a custom?

Good to know.

 

If you want to get some hands-on experience with this kind of equipment before throwing a chunk of money at it, you might want to see if there is any Makerspace activity in your area.

https://www.makerspaces.com/what-is-a-makerspace/

 

They could be...I've never been inclined to try to make any. Which of these have you made, for a traditional build? Please show us examples, I love being proved wrong...with facts.

 

Once again, See that thread Stogy posted with the cool center Ford trim that was made this way, yes its a great tool. Some of us have access to some of these printers that can print crazy things. One of the best threads to see what is possible.

In fact that one in particular looks like its the ABS plastic wire style one you can find nowadays. It comes out rough and need clean up.
I just wonder how it holds up over time.

You still need to know to build the parts on your PC. Basic 3D or CAD drawing skills. You still need the original part to use it for a measuring pattern, it great for a one off part, but mass production you can look at it as if you were making a master.

As the guys that access to the very fancy ones, I have seen stuff that looks like cast aluminum and the rubber. Guy I think we are not there yet, we just happen to work for places with exceptional tools.

 

THANKS EVERYONE.
It looks like I have a lot more investigating to do .

WHY BE ORDINARY ?

 

Just adding other possibilities here. These centers are unobtainable for my OT Sprint.
A friend scanned one and printed a couple dies for me, I then pressed them into a block of rubber. (an old mud flap)

Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I'm not sure I'm in the right place anymore. Or maybe I am and your not? Lippy

 

You can get into a great 3d printer for cheap. It probably wont do what you are thinking out of the box, but a great way to get experience. Printers like the Creality Ender $300 ish and the Prusa MK3 $800 ish are great places to start to get into the workflow of designing/printing and are awesome for their cost. Learning design software (Autodesk Fusion 360 - amazing software and free for hobbyists)

To get the kind of quality you might want for a production print the Resin printers will probably be the way to go. The Peopoly Phenom is a pretty sweet one now. Still pricey at 2K but these are coming down fast. The skills you learn designing and printing on the $300 Creality will translate right over once the cost comes down.

With the filament printers if you are going for more organic forms you can use ABS filament and smooth it with acetone mist. Removes the layer lines, though may blur hard details

And lastly, don't forget you can also 3D print your part, and use it for a mold to start casting your own parts in aluminum (Or gold). You can get ($300 bucks on amazon) or make your own propane smelter rather cheaply. Steel not so much

Oh and you you can also use software like 3D Zephyr to take pictures (50 of them) of objects, and merge them into a 3D model, and print them too. 3D Xerox machine! No where near perfect, but accessible

All of this is not plug and play, but will only be a matter of time. Till then its like having a hotrod with 4 carbs. Always tinkering to make it work.