Ok. Getting my tig welder set up. Gonna build some drain pipes ... as soon as I can get hotdogs pos comet outta my shop. Space is at a premium
Put a vacuum guage on the intake and read how much vacuum it pulls as the rpm increase.Usually a small carb seem to hurt at hi rpm. I used to work on spec sprints 2 barrel 4412 holley,steel block steel heads self starting and they would rpm just fine and dyno in the lo 600 hp range
This depends on your expectations. On a street car you can be under carbed . But on a race engine they need about 1.67 CFM per Horsepower. A 900CFM carb is good for an honest 540 Horsepower. The same carb could turn a 393 inch engine to 7900 rpm Using the old Torque x RPM ÷ 5252 = HP formula If we reverse the math the engine needs 369 Ft/Lbs of torque at that RPM. A 2 valve N/A race engine is about 80 Ft/lbs litre [ the holy grail for F1 engines is aproaching 100 Ft/lbs litre ][some Nascar engines are getting up there] 393 inches = 6.44 litres so at maximum VE it should get 515 Ft/lbs The engine should be about 71% VE at 7900 RPM You'll need to "turn that baby hard"
Unless I missed it, you never did say what you're running for timing, initial, total, what the curve is. Lots of good information here, but I cant help but think some part of the equation is missing.
I run 16 initial, 34 total, all in by 2800rpm. 8 is really low. Put 12-14 in it, see where the total is, back it down to 32, checking to see what rpm it stops advancing at. Dont know what distributor you're using, MSD has bushings, I run a stock 289 distributor with an electronic conversion, vac advance locked out, and played with swapping armatures with various amounts of advance slots. I make my own stop bushings to fine tune it. I spent some time tuning my car this past summer and went from a 2.3 60' to 1.66 and dropped a full second to 12.30s@116mph in a Falcon with a 10.5:1 289 with a stock C4, 4.10 gears. I struggled for a while battling the same things you're going through, doubting my engine combination, carb choice, etc. You've got the hardware, just tune it, you'll get what you expected out of it.
That's what I thought too. Last time we had it at the track the timing light took a dump. Car hasn't been out of the box since. Hoping to make some changes before spring. Have carb. Gonna build new headers and I'm trying to pull together the scratch for used victor jr heads I just came across.
Are those heads stock?Do they have any porting or larger intake valves? They work great in stock form,but if they need any work (valve job,etc) that might be a great time to throw some porting work and some 2.08" intake valves at em. That 2.08" intake really wakes em up. Heck,even with those heads bone stock,you should be creeping up on 500hp with that cam. A ported version of those is essentially what I'm running on my motor. You've got me by 25ci,so you're gonna make a bunch more torque than me,and my little motor was able to make over 600hp with a tweaked set of what are essentially those same heads,so the car you guys are putting together should be a strong runner with a stroked Windsor in it. I'm really looking forward to seeing that car run,and being able to say hello and hang out at the track if I ever get mine back together.....lol Scott Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Actually these are for my falcon and I believe they are stock. . The car were building is a 357" Windsor.
Btw. I'm looking at a ram power grip HD clutch. Sintered iron. What's your opinions ? Experiences? Thanks.
Better have good driveline parts or a big shovel to pick up the not so good parts. that clutch is a non forgiving piece. Southeast Gassers use them and have already changed the rules to say aftermarket carrier for 9 inch Fords . 1350 u-joints should be used. If you have a toploader 4 speed ,plan on twisting the input shaft off or going to a big block one that has been cryo treated. Great clutch , just saying you better have everything else ready to take the shock.
That I do not have. T 10 isn't the toughest box by any stretch. They make the power grip disc that is sintered iron one side organic on the other. Wonder if that may give a little more " cushion " ?
That's the clutch I was running with the 302" motor,and it worked great,and was bulletproof,but as southern cross mentioned,at your power level,it may start eating u-joints,driveshafts,and axles if you have a bit of traction. For the new motor I have the next Ram clutch down the page from that one,which is their most aggressive single disc part,but I also went with 35spline axles,Nash trans,1350 U-joints,etc. It's a slippery slope. Scott Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No,it does exactly the opposite of slip.Its like it locks right up with zero slippage. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The slippery slope I meant was when the real good clutch starts to expose the weaker links in the drivetrain.... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Guessing you have hard side wall tires. Not sure what the cost is on these clutches but if the hard hittin one will take it...... get it broke in good then put a clutch tamer on it. Then just figure out what yellow to leave on.
So before I pull the trigger on a ram power grip hd clutch , is there any reason I couldn't get a sintered iron disc and use my zoom pressure plate? It's a 30000 series zoom clutch
I don't feel like I'm qualified to comment on that one. I just call my guy at Ram,tell him what I need,then the parts show up,and hopefully I don't wreck em while I'm installing them.lol Scott Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Well I'll just keep adding to this thread. To update , I did get a quick fuel brawler 950 carb. I did get victor jr heads but I'm not gonna put them on till some other things are ironed out. Also scored a victor intake. Now I'm starting on the headers. Which seems like it's gonna take some time.