I got spanked the last time i posted for mentioning brand names option 1- stock frame aftermarket IFS kits and rear spring mods I would have to be a usable frame option 2- stock frame with an after market subframe and rear leaf springs option 3- after market complete frame, buy my own IFS stuff option 4- buy a complete chassis I have the skill to do any of these, of course they are listed from low to high$$ My engine of choice is a built 331 Hemi, with a a833 4speed
option 5- stock original frame with dropped front axle and split bones , CE rear parallel leaf spring kit
Option five is best. The old style spring, when clean and in good condition, will ride and handle as good as anything in that chassis. Good shocks, a later model steering gear with a panard bar, a sway bar, good brakes, and it all bolts in. Its a no brainer!
or option 6 this setup with the rear cross leaf intact. There is nothing wrong with the buggy spring that a little intellegence won't cure. Of course there is the 7th option but that involves using any or all of the first 4 options and forgetting about building a traditional hot rod alltogether.
I think that IFS was so rammed down everyones throats by the magazines in the 80's and 90's and beyond, that people forget how good a properly set up buggy spring can be. I have a stock 38 axle and bones (un split) on my 36 with a posies reversed eye srping chassis eng shocks and disc brakes. Out back I have the stock 36 spring that I cleaned up and smoothed the tips where they sit on the lower leaf, and added spring liner, with P&J ladder bars....and it rides good... lots of good options already mentioned. good luck
x2. but, i'd take it a step further and specify using a 1935-1936 front axle and wishbone. the axle is a bit wider and the perch-to-perch is narrower so when you drop it you don't lose much of your steering radius.
Just my two cents worth - After having both, I would go with the Mustang II and rack steering. It works MUCH better than a vega box and cross steer.
I went through something similar on my 40, decided to do it myselft, bought the whole CE frame package, boxed the frame myself, etc. Frankly, I am worn out from the effort it took to make everything fit, work, and look right. I still have a 70+ year old frame to worry about. There is no doubt that I Would have been miles and years ahead to pop for a complete rolling chassis. Many origninal frames of this vintage are severely rusted, especially right under the battery box. Quite a few are bent and twisted from years of use and abuse. There was a guy who used to show up at Chickasha from Arkansas that offered a scratch built 40 chassis for less than what I had in mine after buying all the CE stuff.
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