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Technical '39 and '40 pedals

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dwollam, Mar 27, 2019.

  1. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 727

    dwollam
    Member

    What is the difference, if any, between '39 and '40 Ford pedal setups? Are they the same? I always hear using '39 pedals for hyd conversions. I'm think this may be a way to go in my '33 Plymouth w/ 331 Hemi w/ LaSalle tranny.

    Thanks,

    Dave
     
  2. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,772

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    39 pedals have the clutch pivot on the end of shaft, 40 & up its on the pedal.


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  3. ^^^ what he said.

    The 39 pedals have a lever on the end of the pedal shaft that connects to a lever on the clutch bar in the trans case. The for pedals have the linkage on the pedal which then attaches to a frame mounted cross shaft that attaches to the clutch bar in the trans case in tongue and groove fashion.
     
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  4. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,140

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The '39 is popular because it is useful in converting earlier cars from mechanical to hydraulic brakes. Note, both '39 and '40 brackets are angled to attach to the x-member and may not be a good fitment to your Mopar. One of the many Ansen style setups might work better for you.

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  5. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 727

    dwollam
    Member

    Thanks Guys.

    My frame does have an X member similar to a Ford.

    Dave
     
  6. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 727

    dwollam
    Member

    Ok, armed with this info I searched the classifieds for pedals and found pics of '39 and '40 pedals and it all makes sense now. However, there is a set for sale advertised as '39 and I see now they are '40's because of the pivot on the clutch pedal instead of the shaft. '40 wouldn't work on mine, '39 might. Portland swap meet in about a week so guess what I will be looking for?!

    Thanks again,

    Dave
     
  7. As far as the hydraulic conversions reference is concerned, I think this is more for the 35, 36, 37, 38 maybe earlier, Ford hydraulic conversions because of the clutch leaver position on the 39 pedal assembly is almost a bolt-in to those years.

    With the 39 clutch lever this is the ultimate pedal assembly for this swap.

    I don't know how this would help your application in your Plymouth.

    20160310_214810_HDRcrp.jpg

    20171128_113823b.jpg

    20171128_113852b.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2019
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  8. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 727

    dwollam
    Member

    Great pics Pensive! Thanks. Some issues I can see from those is I would need the clutch lever to PULL rearward rather than push and I think my X member may be farther back than on the Fords. My clutch will use an arm that pivots on a ball instead of a lever and shaft.Also the '39 pedals mount THROUGH the X member but that could probably be over come.

    Dave
     
  9. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 216

    MIKE STEWART

    I have a little different twist on the 1940 vs 1939 petals: I have a 1939 Ford Coupe - 327 Chevy and 4 speed Muncie. This car has 1940 petals and the 1965 or so Chevy car Z-bar - to work the clutch. Refer to pic attached. The Z-bar is sorta in the way and I need about 3/8 more disengagement on the clutch fork - scrapes in reverse - forward gears are good. I bought the Bob Drake 1939 repo petals - and using the Mustang - later dual bowl master cylinder - which the Drake 39 petals are drilled and I can omit the adaptor in the 1940 petals - and I would like to reclock and I think lengthen the 1939 clutch petal fork. I saw a pic of this adaptation in Frank Oddo's Street Rodder build book - but not measurements. Has any one adapted 1939 Ford petals to the Chevy 4 speed trans? If yes - please provide pictures and descriptions. 39 clutch MNS.jpg
     
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  10. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,383

    BJR
    Member

    What's wrong with using the stock Plymouth pedals, or don't you have them?
     
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  11. 4ever18
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 454

    4ever18
    Member

    The ‘39 pedals work well for the Flathead & early trans. For me, using SBC & T-10 4 speed, I prefer the ‘40 pedals. It’s rather simple to make the ‘40 pedal pull the clutch fork, rather than push a bell crank (z bar).
     
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  12. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 727

    dwollam
    Member

    BJR, I do have the stock pedals and I may use them. I have trimmed the crossmember/pedal mount down to just a left side bracket but with the extended bell 331 Hemi there is not a lot of room. The master cylinder goes forward too and that wants to interfere with the steering shaft. the stock setup mounts to the frame rail, not the x member so it is all very tight, but not ruled out as of now.
     
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  13. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 216

    MIKE STEWART

    do you have a pic of this application? Thanks
     
  14. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 599

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    There are good repro 39 pedals available if you cant find any, not cheap, but brand new. I used two 40 brake pedals on my 40, because the brake pedal has the arm on the bottom, so pushes backwards to operate a clutch master cylinder. I would have like to have gone mechanical, less to go wrong, but i didnt have the room. Pedals are in my build if you want more info.
     
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  15. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 216

    MIKE STEWART

    Thanks Neilswheels - nice build info and impressive work. I am trying to keep manual linkage from petals to the clutch fork vs slave cylinder. However - might convert to slave cyl if I can not get this worked out.
     
  16. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 216

    MIKE STEWART

    CLUTCH032919.jpg

    Reworked my 1940 petals - with new clutch fork position and z- bar rod - moved mounting area out for better leverage and fabricated a long connecting rod from the Z bar to clutch fork while keeping the 1940 petals - Car is on jack stands - fired her up and forward gears shift good and no grinding in reverse. Will road test next weekend - hope this works. So for now I will not change to the 1939 petal set. But for a new installation - I think the 1939 Ford petals are better to do a manual activation on clutch fork - vs slave cylinder.


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    Last edited: Mar 29, 2019
  17. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,755

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Simple solution to the PUSH vs. PULL;
    Drive out the pin that holds the shaft to the clutch pedal. Clock the shaft 180, then repin. It'll now PULL rather than PUSH.
    I installed 39 pedals in my SBC/Muncie equipped '34 but have yet to build linkage, so like Mike Stewart, I'm curious to see what others have devised.
     
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  18. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 216

    MIKE STEWART

    When you fab up the linkage - please post pic back on this tech post. I really would like to see your linkage. Or PM me the pic. In the first edition of Frank Oddo's book - How to build a Street Rod - he has a pic of the 1939 petal set - with clutch arm clocked 180 around and a longer lever. However no specifications are revealed.
     
  19. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,755

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    ^^^Sure will Mike. It'll be awhile though. You do the same please if you see or come up with a solution, shoot me a PM. I'm hell bent on making the linkage all mechanical for dependability. Don't want to mess with hydraulic lines, slave cylinders, etc. Thanks.
     
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  20. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,197

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    I will be watching this one I am close to doing my brake and clutch peddles on my 40 Ford coupe with Chevy 348 with Muncie 4 speed and am in the mechanical rather than slave cylinder group also. I have both 39 and 40 peddles and need to decide which will be better.
     
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