Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical 39-48 Flathead in 32 Frame - Unsplit Bones - Oil Pan Issues!

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Bored&Stroked, Oct 30, 2016.

  1. Okay gang, I'm running a 1942 Merc engine in my 32 Cabriolet - using stock 32 motor mounts and associated rubber biscuits. I'm also running a stock 32 wishbone (un split). Currently it has a stock spring in the front, stock heavy axle and is running mechanical brakes. Everything except the engine is factory.

    So, I noticed how close the wishbone came on the starter side to the later oil pan - as a matter of fact, I can see where it has hit the pan and rubbed the paint off on that side. Now I haven't been jumping over dead cows and railroad tracks, so it isn't like I've been hard on it!

    What is the issue here? Well, the 39-48 style oil pan is wider around the starter area than the original cast oil pan (or the 33/34 pans). I've heard that sometimes there are issues as noted above, but not usually unless you're running a reduced arch front spring or a reversed spring-eye main leaf. Keep in mind, this has NOTHING to do with the amount of axle drop - that does not influence the clearance here.

    Back in the day, what did one do? Well, usually just split the bones and be done with it. I do not want to go this route as the front end actually works a lot better as Henry designed it.

    So, as I'm getting ready to put a dropped heavy axle in it and a reversed Posies spring - AND I'm pulling the engine to put a new trans in, thought I'd rework an oil pan at the same time and get it ready.

    I grabbed one of my 59AB oil pans (have about 6 of them lying around). Then I went under my 32 to see where the current one is hitting and where I need to modify the new pan . . . AND Holy Crap . . . I learned something today - there are TWO different styles of 39-48 oil pans and the one that is on the car is the worst of the two (in relation to clearing the bones). In checking all six pans, two are the "good style" - four are the bad style (which is also in the car currently).

    Here is the profile of the type of pan that is in the car - see the straight line from the sump to the starter area:

    StraightPan1 copy.jpg
    Here it is from the other direction:
    StraightPan2 copy.jpg

    Here is the other style oil pan - notice the subtle difference - see the CURVE of that same area:

    CurvedPan1 copy.jpg

    Here it is looking from the other direction:

    CurvedPan2 copy.jpg

    So - if you're going to do what I'm doing (running stock 32 wishbones with a 39-48 engine, then try to find an oil pan that has the 'curved' profile where the wishbone crosses underneath it - will really help solve the problem.

    I decided to take my Oxy/Acet torch and heat the area and then used a 1 3/4" pipe to further profile the curved area - to make sure I will have enough room once I put the new spring in.

    Here are the final results - outside the car. I'll update this thread once I get everything back in the car (with pictures of the current pan and the new one):

    ModifiedPan1 copy.jpg ModifiedPan2 copy.jpg

    Can't say that I ever realized that there are two different pan profiles - glad I learned that today and glad I happened to stumble upon the one that I actually should use.

    Hope this helps the next guy.

    B&S
     
    jimgoetz, Jet96, LOU WELLS and 6 others like this.
  2. image.jpg image.jpg Yes dale there are two different ones. Early and late. I believe 39-41 is curved and 42-48 are straight. Maybe 38-41. I just picked up an all original 39 motor and it has a curved one. One of the ol 32 gurus I know was telling me this a few months back. I guess I thought it was one of those things most 32 guys knew so I never thought of sharing it. Top pic is 39 A motor and bottom pic is 42 59a motor.
     
    LOU WELLS and kidcampbell71 like this.
  3. Hey Bruce . . . sometimes us Old Dogs need to learn a few new things! HaHa . . . As this was my first "stock framed" 32, never had to deal with the wishbone issue before - though I'd heard about it. The funny thing is that I never knew (or cared) that there were two different oil pans. Glad you have the "right one" on your 32. LOL
     
  4. Good info to have.
     

  5. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,122

    Andy
    Member

    I had to massage my oil pan as well. I cut it and bent it in for the clearance. I had an earlier pan on it before. No clearance issues but it was real flat on the bottom and I would loose oil pressure going down my driveway. The oil would go to the front of the pan.
     
  6. Wish you would get that move done Dale, I gotta flatty to build! Plus I need someone to carpool to the salt, that trip solo hurts my brain anymore.
     
  7. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,205

    clem
    Member

    Thanks for the infomation above.
    Does anyone know of any similar type issues with the 8BA motor in a '32 chassis; unsplit wish bones and reversed eye / lower arch spring?
    Thanks.
     
  8. akoutlaw
    Joined: May 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,262

    akoutlaw
    Member

    Dale, Thanks for that info. I never new that. I will have to dig out my 42 merc pan & have a look.
     
  9. Slowly but surely . . . one summer at a time! LOL
     
  10. The situation is quite different in that there is a bolt-on bell housing on the back on an 8BA - so the oil pan looks like a more modern/conventional oil pan. My guess (sitting here at the computer) is that it will not have the same issue. The starter bolts to the bell-housing, so the oil pan doesn't have that goofy starter leg on it.
     
  11. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,205

    clem
    Member

    Thanks
    I Have just done this in my sedan.
    Test drive yesterday afternoon and seems to be ok
    Clemens
     
  12. I have found that even the "good" pan will hit the stock '32 wishbone. I believe that a little notch with a welded in patch is needed. This section of the pan is only to support the starter, so there is no issue with oil leak at the weld.
     
  13. Yes - I believe that is the case as well . . . or it is damn close. I pondered cutting out the pan and welding a concave piece in that section, but opted for the rosebud torch (heated a 2" wide area to cherry red), then used a pipe as a form tool - with a 2 lb hammer against it. Was super easy to do - and it should work out.
     
    gsouthworth likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.