and the shoes are right up too? and piston can go back enough to draw fluid (building on what ClayMart suggested about a good old fashioned look see).
Yes and yes. I actually over tightened the shoes just to see if there was a change, but there was none. I haven't cut out the access yet for the master so I cannot look just yet to see what the reservoir is doing, but I have the pushrod adjusted so that it touches, and a quarter turn back. I can just barley wiggle the pushrod while at rest. I really do think the only option is going with a 1 inch bore master. It seems only logical that if more and harder pedal force creates more pressure on the slaves then if I drop down to a smaller bore will create more pedal travel but higher pressure. Is my logic on mark? Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Your comment above just sort of popped out to me. Don't know how familiar you are with brake work, so this may be old news. There will likely be some differences in the volume and pressure requirements of the two different systems. But also look at all the shoe return springs on a drum brake setup. With no brake pressure applied these springs are trying to retract the shoes and push the wheel cylinder pistons back into their bores. With no residual valves the displaced fluid ends up being pushed back into the m/c reservoir. The residual valves act as a sort of check valve that holds a few pounds of pressure between the valves and the wheel cylinders and keeps the shoes from fully retracting. Disc brakes don't have, or need, any return springs on the pads or pistons. When pedal pressure is released the pads just have to move back enough to create a slight air gap between the pads and the disc.
Yes your absolutely correct. I am no brake designer, engineer, or connoisseur but I've got a basic knowledge of it. Another benefit of a residual valve is that it will keep just a little pressure on the slaves which can prevent leaks. Now I do have two 10 pound valves installed, but they have thread leaks on the master side or the inlet of the residual. I'm not claiming that I don't have any air in the lines because of this, it's defiantly possible, but I am showing no evidence of it. I've got some trial and error to do over the next couple of weeks but I will definitely post my findings in hope it helps the next guy. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Update... still working on wiring, patching in some floor panels, and ironing the brakes out ( which I cant do until we start driving it).. I, however couldnt wait to see how well the motor still ran so insert a water bottle, duct tape, and gasoline. Heres the video.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3FavoiVMnE It started easily and other then a slight miss and some ticking seems to be operating very well for a 70 year old motor. Thanks for staying tuned!
Does anybody know if 38 Buick window molding/garnishes will fit the olds? We found some but they are pretty proud of them, they look really close. Id hate to buy them and be out the money... Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Pottsie, a friend of mine who lives in New Albany built an Olds a couple of years ago. He has since sold it but may be able to help out. If your interested, PM me for his name.
It would all depend on the model year and style of the Buick. According to the Hollander Parts Interchange, the Buick sedans and the coupes had the same windows installed as the Oldsmobiles and Pontiacs for 37 and 38. The convertibles all had different glass. So, yes, just so long as you are using garnish moldings off of a Buick or Pontiac 4dr sedan. Hope this helps. Adam
Thanks for the info Adam that is going to help out a lot knowing that the buick window garnishes will work since there are no oldsmobile garnishes out there that I can find. I had bought some window garnishes out of a 38 chevy and they were a little longer and narrower. So now we won't have to slice and dice them.
Good source of all kinds of parts is the AACA...Antique Automobile Club of America, I have posted on their wanted board a couple times and have come up with some fairly hard parts to find...ALSO...Find the largest Olds Club you can, they are on the web somewhere, I am sure there are Olds "Experts" that can tell you pretty much anything you need to know or where to find it...Believe it or not, there are still folks that don't build everything into a hot rod....most are very willing to help another "Old Car Guy" out...
You might consider a frame swap. a '64 to '72 GM "A" body frame. I'm using a '68 Cutlass vista cruiser frame, it matches my '50 Olds wheel base. it's a thought. Gene
Hi all what trans. dous your 38 have in it? What is the value of a 1938 like this one dous any one know? How many 1938 with the strait 8 are left out there? I know of 2 1938 4 doors olds with the strait 8 and the safty auto trans. one has the spar tire mounts on the frount fenders? both are at lest 90%
Trans is original 3 speed. To be honest I don't know the manufacturer. As far as the value, really it's only going to be worth what someone is willing to pay. I haven't seen any for sale recently to even begin to guess. The straight 8s especially Olds 8 seem to be pretty rare at least from my parts of the country. Everyone that has/had a car that had an original straight 8 has swapped for a 350. We on the other hand are leaving the 8. It runs really nice and has plenty of power to move this beast around. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
The Jalopy Journal
