The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mercurymitch, Jun 11, 2011.
looking good, great skills..
Guys like you are why I come to this site. You are extremely talented and brave.
All these parts have been soaked in molases /water solution,i have a 1 thousand litre tub and just drop it in for about 3 weeks.I shortened up the pod on the inner guards to fit the top suspension arm
Man, You guys down under sure know how to do some work ! Will stay tuned on this build.
The fenders i got from a mate,they were all very second hand his spare spares lots of rust repairs and dents
And some rear guards
I removed 2 inches from the inner edge of the guards that was rusty and added 4 to widen the guards by 2 inches
Very cool build. Please keep the updates coming.
Hey mitch, your'e doing a great job here! I've got a similar project - lotsa rust and not much else! 34 buick 4dr sedan that's been cut to make a coupe. Would you mind sharing your welding technique. What are you using for a welder? What settings? Do you get full penetration with the tacks? Do you stitch weld ie tacks as shown in the pix and then flip over and tack between them on the reverse side? Do you 'break' the grain on new sheet before forming curved sections? Sorry about all the questions, but I'm at the stage in life where planning & fact finding counts - Not Rip, Bust & Tear!
Not so sunny & warm Gold Coast!
I wish I had you for a neighbor. Lifes not fair.
To answer your question Rodl ill continue with the 1/4 windows
After doing some work on a 40 4 door iv had them same ¼ window in the back of my mind also….always thought they’d look good on a coupe.
I used the 1/4 window from the sedan which normally fits over the rear guard,its longer and lower than original.When the bottom is sat level the B pillar section cants forward,all looked good untill i stood back and looked at it------I was building a bloody vw the other thing was when i sat the door top in place the 1/4 window top was too high
so the next step was cut it out and move the top halfNow to answer that question.I use a mig ,not the best welding system, tig or oxy is better but i dont have tig,. and wont pay huge rent for oxy .Tack panel in place this can take a few goes, make sure its flush and leave 1 ml gap ,as you weld watch the gap disappear as the weld shrinks.While its hot i put a dolly on the back and give it a good hit also when welding
Next I made some running boards.I found an article in Street Rodder and just followed step by step
These can be made to any shape you want ,but the lesser the curves the easier it is to form the metal over.Holes are drilled at either end and drilled to stop the metal from moving
Next put your piece of metal between the timber and clamp in place then trim excess metal off only leaving the amount needed to hammer over
Sorry i have not got a pic of the metal trimmed off but you need about the thickness of timber [say 1 1/4 inch]left parrallel to the timber. I forgot to say to radius the edges making sure that you make a pair [see first pic] the larger this radius the easier to bend.
Next is to curve a right angle piece to the shape of your timber ,for this job you need a shrinker strecher Then trim off your curved edge to a nice line and weld the two together
Looking good!! Got your work cut out for ya, but that doesn't seem to be a problem for you. Much respect.
I take my hat off to you.
You have taken on a huge task and seem to be eating it alive.
To do the inner edge i turned the original right hand side upsidedown on the left hand side measured the width of the front and back guards and then coppied the back edge,then folded the edge over using two pieces of angle iron and two clamps
And the running board fitted
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