Hot Rods 37 Ford Floors

I need some advice. It's a good thing I don't follow directions most of the time. This is the first time doing floor repair on a car this old. It's my son's car his grandfather bought him when he was 13. I have a kit from Direct Sheet Metal for the the front floor area. It has toe boards and trans tunnel at the firewall. so after measuring it out they come up short about 1 1/2" from the dimension the instructions say. Plus the tunnel they supply behind the slope to the firewall is about 3" too wide. Glad I didn't cut, so after looking it over and laying the toe boards up tight at the firewall it looks like I should cut the Direct Sheet Metal floor shorter ( 19" back from the toe board )
and terminate them in front of the org. seat mounts and even leave the the org. tunnel and butt weld into that. The replacement tunnel that slopes back is 2 piece and it would blend into the stock tunnel better if I left the stock tunnel complete. The car is running a 327 and 350 trans. Should I make the toe boards removable at the pedal area, both sides, whats the best way to tie them in ?
The replacements fit that area real well. Also the stupid directions say to attach the new floor over the rocker ??, the factory put them under, plus I cant see but about 2 spot welds
it looks like the floor was just tacked to the sill at the edge of the sill.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks

 

will look--doing a 37 woody now for a friend--same toe boards, etc -welded in

 

Thanks olscrounger. That's a nice 40 there in your avatar. That's been my dream car sense I was 5

 

The original setup on these is as follows.
The towboard is metal and is bolted in as two pieces. Mine has wood from the towboard to the area right before the seats that is also bolted in. Of course this is for a flatty and three speed. You may need more room. But if it was me I'd make everything removable right before the seats. Even the large part of the tunnel. Wish I had a pic of one without the mat in.

 

I just about finished this floor repair , I'm leaving the center forward portion of the tunnel lose for now until the body is back on the frame and check trans clearance. I had a few small repairs to do on the firewall before doing the floor. I cleaned the area down to nice metal and had 2 cracks and a couple holes to fill. Then the welding started everything went to hell in a hurry. The crack repair went fine but plugging the 2 holes, I don't see as good as times past and there was some lead in the firewall and that caused an unsolicited pain in the neck. Going into the floors I was apprehensive and decided to overlap and rosette weld then come back for the edge. cut of the replacement floors at 19" back from toe boards just going after the rust damage. I was glad to find the seat support are in very good shape. So after I get the brakes plumbed its time to get the body returned to the frame and mock up fenders for tires and rims.

 

this kit has a better transition from trans cover to drive shaft tunnel and it is included at no extra charge

the ems guy www.emsautomotive.com

 

Thanks, but I'm beyond a different floor set. I'll keep a record of your co. As I plan on another 36 to 40.
I really didn't have trouble blending the back of the tunnel DSM supplied, I only used the front 2 parts they sent. The only part of the floor kit I really don't like is the very forward section of the tunnel.
The kit was for a stock firewall and it sits about 1 1/2 to hi at the firewall. I'm going to fit it after the body is back on the frame.


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