The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by wrong generation, Dec 29, 2018.
Going to attempt to get the oilpan off today. Damn swaybar looks to be in the way though.
There is condensation in the transmission and rear end so you you need to check them out before you dump a lot of money in the motor.
You need to make friends with "Coilover" ^^^^^^^ Sounds like he has rebuilt a similar Buick. I believe this engine uses "Babbitt" bearings and may be a splashed.
Work on the engine has been real slow but some progress has been made.
now looks like this.
had a few small victories like getting the front seat adjusters to move. Which isn't exactly picture worthy.
At the moment im cleaning up the push rods as i take a break from trying to get the distributor out of the block. As its rusted in place to the cam shaft.
Time to pull it out and see if it's worth saving, remember the transmission and rearend may look the same. When the oil drains off the gears they rust also, I would check everything out before I spent any money trying to save it.
Was the engine submerged in a prior life?
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May have been a flood car, is there any high water marks or debrie line
The car has never been in a flood or even in a flood zone. It was parked in a garage up on a hill for over 50 years.
As you can tell by the valve train it just needs some elbow grease and attention. Right now I'm just taking the entire engine apart and cleaning it up best i can. No need to spend money just some time,effort and a little hard work.
As for the rear axle and transmission. I do plan to go thru them but atm they are not of concern as they're not locked up.
as a fellow 37 buick owner, you've got yourself a cool car! Hoping for the best outcome with your engine, and looks like it should clean up well, though egge sells some valve train parts for them if you need some replacement parts, and the 1937, 1938 buick facebook group, along with a few others have helped me with sourcing some parts for my coupe.
Looking at the previous mess under the valve cover, I guess I consider myself pretty lucky with the engine I found for mine
yep clean out the gunky grease and the valve train may be just fine but you may need hardened valve Seats to guard against damage when using modern fuel.
@Stooge good to see I'm not the only young gun with one of these cars. But Just curious out of all the 30s cars why did you pick the 37 buick? And why go with s straight eight over a v8? Looks like you've got a ton more metal/body work then i do. So i won't complain to much about having to do the engine work lol.
I'd suggest purchasing a reproduction shop manual for the '37 BUICK. They're probably available on eBay. It won't cost much, and will guide you in many ways as you work on your car. There's also a specific 1937 Fisher Body manual (available in repo) that covers working on the body, hood, trunk, latches, hinges...about everything that's non-mechanical on the car.
About needing a key for the ignition switch...make life easier on yourself...just remove a door lock, which is much simpler than disassembling the ignition switch. The door lock is the same as the ignition switch lock. The trunk lock is different, but I've forgotten if the glove box is, too. Play it safe, and go with the door lock.
Regarding 1937 Buicks: They have a fair amount of wood framing in the body. The doors are prone to sag, when the wood starts to "rot". Could that be the reason the front door is currently off the car? Go around to the three doors still installed, open them up wide, and see how much you can move them up and down. If there's a lot of slop, you're going to have some wood work in your future.
I also suggest you join the AACA online forum. It's free. Then, you can go to the Buick Club of America section of the AACA forum, and get helpful answers to your questions from totally Buick people. These guys will know lots about Buicks of your vintage. They can also point you in the right direction for parts (used and new) you're sure to need. Don't get me wrong: The people here on the H.A.M.B. are certainly super car guys...but we're not as focused on straight eight Buicks, like the specific late 1930's Buick "experts" you'll find on the Buick Club of America forum. Best of luck with your project. John
I didnt really go out to find a buick, i had worked on a few other '37 cars previously and really liked that late 30s style and being a GM person, set out to find a coupe. Was anticipating on a less rare car, chop it, do some custom sheet metal work then stumbled on the century coupe amd was one of those love at first sight things and especially liked how big it is. price was cheap and though it was in new york, it had massachusetts paperwork which was a big plus. I went with the straight 8 because i just thought it was cool, but because it didnt have an engine or trans,i was going to go with whatever i came across and could afford. ended up finding a running, lower mileage 320 out of a '47 roadmaster for $500 about 15minutes away so the decision was made. Otherwise, i was planning on a nailhead and a muncie, but i also would have had to redo the rear end, rear suspension, etc to get rid of the torque tube.
My 37 doesnt have any wood framing, i think that may have been the years prior, maybe up to 36. I do agree on the mulling around the pre-war buick section of the aaca forums, and just tread lightly about any deviations you plan on making. there's have alot of very specific technical knowledge over there and are pretty generous to share it for the most part
@Jolly-John. As stooge has said there is no wood on the 37 buick. Your wrong about the trunk key its the same as every other key for the car. Its the one i used as it was the easiest to take apart. The drivers door was removed so that i could easily steer it for getting it on and off the trailer. As for buying books and joining other forums I've done so. Rockauto sells all the reproduction manuals for this car. And I've joined the aaca and a few other forums.
Not so. Heads are hard enough.
WG, if that engine gets to be too much, message me. I have something you might be interested in.
Days like today where i feel like I'm making no progress on the engine. I want to just rip it out and replace it. But i know tommrow might be a different story with a better out come. Lol
You can do this! Don't let an old piece of iron beat you.
BUT, if you do decide to let an old piece of iron beat you, i know of a certain century coupe thats looking for a front motor mount plate to replace the later yr mount and some clutch stuff
Believe this or not , I live not far from Augusta , Ky . The home of George Clooney . His Father and Mother still live there . In 2005 , I purchased a new Dodge CTD . Wife and I , went for a ride and a meal in Augusta . We went by George’s house . It is a super small town and his house is a cottage with an Ohio River view . I’m cutting to the chase now ! Sitting at the curb for trash at George’s house was a Steamer Trunk , as new looking , all the inside drawers and compartments in prestine condition . I ask a neighbor about it . “ He is cleaning out , it’s in thrash . You want it take before the trash man crushes it.” I loaded into to truck . It’s been sitting in my garage for 14 years waiting on my wife to decide where in our museum of antiques we call a house to put it . Never , Never allow your wife to store anything in Man Land until she decides what she wants to do with it ! Space, is at a premium in the garage anyway . But if I raise too much Hell , Im thinking there will be even less space in the garage , after I set up my cot for a few evenings of playing house . Seems as near the same think may have happened where you found your Buick Sedan !
@deathrowdave not sure the point to your story but thanks for the read.
Well after 2 months of letting 4 pistons soak in pd blaster and the other 4 soak in mmo while i rocked the car several times a day in gear. Having no results i desided to take the engine apart.
even with out the timing chain. The pistons still won't spin. I think it's time to add some heat to the equation.
It looks like that has either been submerged or a very bad internal water leak. You may try submerging and soaking it in a molasses water solution to dissolve the rust and enable disassembly.
don't you remember the pic of the bbq engine heater!!the op said it worked fine...
Cool car. If it were mine, I'd clone this!!!
@warhorseracing no thanks on the molasses it seems as though thats only good for removing surface rust and not as a penetrating agent. And from what i gather off this forum its harmful to the car. If i were looking to remove surface rust id use evaporust.
Woohoo. The old girl will have some teeth once again lol.
Just bought a front grill from @imstupid thank you again. For this. And i should also kinda thank @Stooge lol cause with out him posting here id have never found his thread which is where i came across imstupid. Lol
Now to get back into the garage and check on the engine. Lol
Good for you!
I'm on a mopar site that has a member with a late 40 early 50 Chysler that he leases to movie makers, he gets paid good money for every day the car is on set and filmed. They used his car for three months and it came back in better shape that when thay got it.
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