The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by wrong generation, Dec 29, 2018.
It is possible the grille and keys are in the trunk, locked.
Check any other buildings on the place also. I have found missing parts in the other buildings several times! Sometimes they are just stored else where. Good luck.
If the grills are like the 38 they are pot metal and cost a small fortune to restore and plate. Look for them like you are looking for a pot of gold.
Good idea. Also ask your Lady friend if she ever remembers the car having a grille. Ask if you can venture in the house attic. Many times old car owners will remove small gingerbread, stainless trim, grilles, etc. and store in a safe place in the house (attic, closet, under a bed) where the temps aren't extreme and the parts are safe. The grilles could be wrapped in a blanket or paper and possibly in a box. You may have to dig and open every box especially if they were stashed 40-50 years ago. Then again, there's a possibility, someone did some deep heavy household cleaning decades ago and trashed them, or the previous owner stored/lost them and they were never with the car.
I'd focus your first effort on the engine. As Cornfed said, be mindful of chewed chassis wiring. Before you start ohming out the harness and replacing the ignition switch, I'd ignore the rest of the car, and imagine that engine is sitting on an engine stand. After your thorough inspection and getting it to manually rotate, disconnect all the car wiring from the engine. Clean (or rebuild) the carb, go through all the ignition,etc. Wire up a battery, remote ignition and portable gas tank and have at it. Have a helper, fire extinguisher and water on hand.
Once you confirm the engine is good, you can move on to the rest of the drivetrain and car. Keep us posted.
The dim orange glow of the right headlight was her first sign of life after such a long nap.
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This is very cool! It's a little like starting the engines of a 1940's Lockheed Constellation or a Boeing B-29 aircraft: The engine cranks and you see smoke, then flame, and finally the ground shakes with incredible power and the beast comes to life! When your engine finally wakes up just stand there and enjoy the moment.
^^^^^^^^ Sounds more like he just started a 12,000 HP Top Fuel Engine!^^^^^^^^
personally i would use break in oil since it has the additives in it, also see if a local station sells premium with no ethanol in it, the oil will save your lifters and cam and no ethanol can make a decent difference. def hand crank a few times and get some oil in cylinders and clean the pan. you can bypass the ignition right? or grab an aftermarket one and hook it up under the dash maybe? plus didnt the still have hand crank option up front in 37?
I had a 39 Buick coupe in high school back in 1964, had a Studie 263 c.i. V8, 3 speed O.D. trans. Fun car in black primer..
263? So a 259 bored over?
Gibbs breaking oil has he additives in it for breaking for flat tapped lifters.
Like all past helpful tips. I would - after clean pan & add fresh oil & turn over - pull distributor get tool ( large screwdriver ) down into oil pump & spin pump until have oil pumping everywhere like bearings & valve train. Believe like most engines distributor end spins oil pump someone correct me if wrong. Check distributor with buzz box to be sure re-install right timing. Wait to hear of success.
You don't need the key to start it, it just turns the ignition on and probably a floor button or dash button would crank it over. A hot wire from battery to coil would energize it, I ran my '50 Chevy's 235 that way. Which had a mouse nest in the valves, so have a look inside there before trying to run it.
Don't worry about a key to fire it off, Just run a jumper from the BAT flag on the voltage regulator to the + side of the coil. You step on the foot feed to activate starter and the vacuum switch on the carb is often bad after setting for long periods. Use a remote start button hooked to the battery positive and the start post on the starter solenoid. Your fuel pump is probably the dual diaphragm type and may have dried up accelerator pump leather and cracked diaphragm(s) so before buying expensive fuel pump or a 6v electric pump just prime the carb and see if it fires off. If you have a specific problem PM me and most likely I can help as I have had my 37 Buick for 40 years and drive it 8-10k miles a year which means EVERYTHING has be broken at least once and been replaced by my dirty grubby hands. My wife and I have been from the Mexican to the Canadian border and from the Atlantic to the Pacific oceans in it so I'd say they are a great road car.
With A/C and auto, yet.
We made another, brother.
Sorry about that. Put the battery in a light lit and i was happy lol. Been battling a 105 degree fever. So havn't had much energy only other update would be i got a key and I've been cleaning mice nests. Out of everywhere.
I wish. There's no easy way to get to the nut on the crank pulley
As for the engine it looks the Piston rings are rusted against the cylinder walls. So need to break them free.
That's where all your seat padding went. I hate cleaning that Shit up
ATF and Acetone half and half fill the cylinders thru the spark plug holes let them sit a day, then put a 12 volt bat right to the starter sol. and turn it 180 deg. fill the spark plug holes with the same ATF and Acetone let it sit another day to a week, crank it with 12 volts again, tap the starter until ot turns freely, blow the cylinders out, fill plug holes with with gasoline crank it thru, put new plugs in and start it up.
Beware of the sparks .
Pop'd the valve cover off today. Found this.
what is this cystalized stuff? And how/why is it there?
Looks like extreme corrosion. All steel parts covered in brown rust. Rocker shaft pedestals look like aluminum that is also extremely corroded. Expect a total rebuild based on the amount of corrosion present in these photos. Some of these parts may not be salvageable.
As stated above, very serious extreme corrosion. Also like stated above you may as well pull it out now and continue dis-assembly and plan on replacing what you have because it probably isn't going to turn out well.
Damn Coil that black Buick looks brand new!Engine needs total rebuild water really did a number on the valve train.
Cars like this are awesome all on their own. I look forward to how it turns out.
This would be a nice car to keep original with that 320ci straight eight but with the condition of the valve train you can expect more corrosion inside to the pistons and cylinders. Time to pull the motor, tear down and evaluate the condition of everything. Then search for a competent machine shop that has knowledge of these motors. Then the parts searching begins. Maybe there is someone on here that has parts, a donor motor or even a running motor. No way to tell how bad it is until you pull it and tear it down.
Another option for you would be to convert the drivetrain to something newer and easier to find.
Keeping it all Buick with a nailhead or 455 or ? Find a donor car and swap the motor, trans and rear.
Best of luck
The engine may not be as bad as it looks. The corrosion you are seeing is from condensation under the valve cover. The engine internals may not be too bad. A complete teardown is in order to assess the engine's condition.
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