Just curious I've done some trading and aquired a 37'- 48' front axle with new pins and some neat custom spindles. Would love to use it. Obviously it's a bit too wide and there would be some steering contact issues. I'm thinking on sectioning a few inches from the axle to get proportions right. Any one have insight. Or hopefully some pictures to help me picture it. Thanks in advance. Oh going on a fenderless 27' Tudor on A frame.
Ford axles were forged steel and, as such, can be safely welded. Narrowing in the center puts the least strain on the welded joint. A 'stepped' or 'offset' cut, as opposed to a 'butt' joint, would be best, in my opinion. By that I mean cutting the upper part of the beam in one location and the lower part in a location a few inches away, with the web cut horizontally in between. Obviously, you want a competent welder to rejoin the shortend halves. edit: after reading subsequent posts, I want to say, I stand by my comments above IF you narrow the axle, but other posts can into question the suitability of this axle for your purposes, an issue I did not address. Ray
The steering arms are all welded on. They did an awesome job. And the bottom arms where heated and bent.
The perch bolts are too far apart for the A spring to work, the spindles look like they have had the backing plate mounts trimmed off them and you are still going to have rubbing problems if you narrow the axle....that will not change the relationship between the stub axles and the radius rods/split bones. All in all IMHO you would be better off finding a 32-36 axle, dropping a model A axle or buying the correct forged axle from Chassis Engineering, they are relatively cheap ...about 250-300 bucks. By time you cut and shut the 38 axle it will owe you just as much.
I was originally ok with a small turning radius. And was going to shorten to make spring fit. Going to be spring behind axle. And yes I didn't realize the mounts were removed from these spindles. Could a guy weld some back on? I'm either going to put my stock A spindles on this axle and have a small turning radius but be lower. Or put these King pins in my A axle. As you can tell I'm new to this and learning as I go. Thanks for the help guys.
I think I'd invest in a new dropped axle that worked without modifying anything, rather than cutting and welding everything to make the one you have work . Keep the geometry correct and simple. Just my 2 cents worth ( I'm a scaredy cat, especially at highway speeds- things happen real quick). Good luck with it!
just get a 32-36 standard front axle. they are cheap and plentiful. and give you a 2 inch drop. and retain the good turning radius
`I would not worry about the width of the axle. I have a '46 axle under a Model A with fenders and it looks fine. The tire clearance and getting brakes is a bigger deal.
The axles are not the same from 37-46. 37-41 are the same and 46-48 are the same. 1937 -41 are 48 1/2 " kingpin to kingpin 38 1/2 perch to perch. 1946-48 are 50 3/4 " kingpin to kingpin 41" perch to perch. 1928-31 are 50 1/2 " kingpin to kingpin 36 1/2 perch to perch Your cheapest route is a Model A axle. Or you can have a spring made to go on top of axle and use cross steering.
I run a 35-36 under my '28 RPU and it puts the wheels and tires flush with side of the fender just perfect.
I'm planning on sectioning 3 or 4" out of axle so I can run my A spring. And will put bones under and to the inside of the frame. And if they still rub I will "notch" the bones or put a slight bend in them. Now I will wait for one of you to crush my plans and tell me " that won't work". Haha
There's this thing called "reinventing the wheel". Now, I heartily encourage you to take the path your heart directs you, you often will learn more, but these guys are all steering you in the right direction. The reason it rubs is the distance between the kingpin and perch are much closer so the wheel can only physically turn so far before hitting the bone. The 28-36 axles kingpin and perch spacing is much wider thus allowing a better turning radius. Cutting the center 3 or 4" out of the axle will not help this. Finding a 1928-1936 axle would put you ahead in the game.
I understand cutting the axle will not cure the turning radius. It will allow me to run the much cheaper smaller model A spring I already have. . Now running the mount for the split bones under and to the inside of the frame along with a smaller front tire should allow for a manageable turning radius. Not perfect but manageable. Married with 3 kids and a mortgage doesn't allow perfect. I'm going to try and make what I have work. All I was going for with this thread was to see if others had successfully used this axle. I have since found a few threads where people have used these. Just trying to explain myself so I don't look like an idiot or an asshole. There's already plenty of assholes on this forum. Now my wife would think I was mad and being a dick by the "sound" of this. I'm not. Haha
It's gonna look real narrow and funny once you take 4 inches out of the middle. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That's same width as an A axle. I'm definitely not stuck at 4. Or 3. Haven't really thrown a tape to it. Just guessing at the moment. But the axle is to wide for spring. And it's wider than rear axle. Will look funny if I leave it.
In the picture, I do not see a flange for bolting on the backing plates. Maybe I just do not see it. Neal
Hate to be the buzzkill, but the comments above about the axle ending up too narrow are correct. The 37-41 axles are already 2" narrower than an A (kingpin to kingpin) and the 42-8's are 1/4" wider...take 3-4" out of the middle and it will look odd on a fenderless car IMO. You could have sold that axle, worked an extra job or two, and bought all the correct pieces by now; yet we're still talking about sectioning an axle...doesn't make sense, man. ^^ Those guys have given good info, you'd do well to heed their advice. Are you a certified welder? Just curious.
Not certified. But very confident in my ability. Like I said. Havnt put a tape to it yet. Workin a lot lately. But it seemed quite a bit wider than the A. Our local car scene is muscle cars and billet. There is no one to buy my axle. And 2nd job is not happening. Like I've said I'm learning what works and doesn't. I'm definitely listening to this advice. But selling/buying locally is out of the question. So I'm doing my best with my options. Going to start watching on here for a another axle I suppose. Or use my A axle.
I hear ya. Seems like most guys in my immediate area are into the same things. On the other hand, I've had really good luck finding parts out in the rural areas (an hour or two drive away)...tons of these early Fords were turned into hay/grain buggies or retired behind the barn. Being in SoDak, a drive in the country or checking out a farm auction or two might be a good option for finding parts.
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