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Projects 36 chevy low cab build.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by ridenlow559, Aug 11, 2014.

  1. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Starting a thread on my build. It will be slow. But any input from you guys is welcomed.

    So I picked up the cab and some square tubing just over a month ago. And yesterday I ended up getting a 283/3 speed combo that came out of a el camino, and a 700R4 that also came with the deal.

    Getting he engine inspired to start the thread since I'm actually collecting parts a little faster than I had planned. The 283 had been rebuilt a few years back. And is in very good condition. My plan is just to freshen it up, new gaskets, freeze plugs, oil/water pump....etc. Also a mild cam and valve springs, and eventually 3 deuce set up. And as far as the chassis. I'm building a square tube frame and going with 32 ford suspension. That's about it for now. Will post pics soon. Any other suggestions will help!
     
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  2. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,711

    55willys
    Member

    Always liked the 36 low cab
     
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  3. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 214

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    looking forward to your build i have 36 as well my build is in my signature
     
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  4. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Yeah will check out pics Lucky-13. Also did you repair the post on yours and if yes. Do you have pics or any info on what to do. Thanks.


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  5. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 214

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Mine is a very late 36 so the vertical wood pieces are steel like a 37. I know its common for people to take the entire dash support and door jams out of a 37 and graft it in.

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  6. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,494

    KJSR
    Member
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    Low cabs rule!!
     
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  7. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1408591318.928003.jpg
    Got the 283 home this weekend. Didn't get the 700R4. Might be getting a power glide from a friend of mine soon.


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  8. old chevy dude
    Joined: Aug 25, 2014
    Posts: 35

    old chevy dude
    Member

    I just started back on my 34 pickup. I have had it for 33 years and it was a basket case when I bought it and other obligations and projects took priority. I am using original frame with mustang II front, small block w/ 350 turbo. etc... If I can help any way let me know, but I need help also with the wood in the cab. It was removed when I got the truck and I need some patterns (especially door post) to build steel replacements. This is my first post, so I hope I am doing it right. Don't even know how to put in a picture. I am located in central Alabama.
     
  9. pila38
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 781

    pila38
    Member

    Nice! Good luck with the build, I really like the '36-'38 GM trucks. Of course, I might be a little partial!
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1409407477.094087.jpg


    Do you really care what I used to post this message?
     
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  10. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Going to work on the grille a bit. Don't have much to do to it right now. Really been trying to get my bills taken care of which so far is going pretty good. Won't cost me anything to mess with the grille.

    Need some input on how to straighten the bent part of the grille(shown in pic). Or should I just leave it alone. Usually I would just go for it and do it. But I rather get some opinions first on what to do. Don't want to wreck it and have to try to pay or even try to find another one. Also going to remove the trim from the lower valance so i can add to bottom of grille and remove the light bars(valance and light bars will be posted for sale). All opinions we'll appreciated. Thanks!

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1411237257.440261.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1411237279.989532.jpg


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  11. old chevy dude
    Joined: Aug 25, 2014
    Posts: 35

    old chevy dude
    Member

    If the upright runners are open on the back you could try grinding a piece of flatstock to fit in them and "gently" hammer them out. At least they would look somewhat better. New ones are expensive. Maybe someone that has built the whole thing will chime in with guidance.
     
  12. old chevy dude
    Joined: Aug 25, 2014
    Posts: 35

    old chevy dude
    Member

    Oh by the way. What are your plans for the headlights?
     
  13. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Need to find a pair first. But probably going to mount directly to grille shroud or some kind of frame or shock mount. Nothing to crazy.


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  14. old chevy dude
    Joined: Aug 25, 2014
    Posts: 35

    old chevy dude
    Member

    I might have an extra pair, if you want original lights.
     
  15. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Yeah I do want original lights. I really don't have extra money to spend right now. But what are you asking for them? What year are they?


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  16. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Did what I could to straighten it out. Really don't wanna mess with it anymore. Doesn't look like it will move much more without causing damage. Just needs a good cleaning now.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1411253158.559036.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1411253168.959352.jpg


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  17. Looks like a start.
     
  18. old chevy dude
    Joined: Aug 25, 2014
    Posts: 35

    old chevy dude
    Member

    OK dude. That looks a lot better. are you able to put something longe in the back to form it? If so, round it with the grinder and gently tap it.
     
  19. old chevy dude
    Joined: Aug 25, 2014
    Posts: 35

    old chevy dude
    Member

    Sorry for the messed up reply, this computer is crazy. P.M. me if you need to.
     
  20. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Not a problem. What are you asking for the headlights?


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  21. old chevy dude
    Joined: Aug 25, 2014
    Posts: 35

    old chevy dude
    Member

    I will have to dig them out and see what I have. They are in my old shop and it may be a few days.
     
  22. bubba55
    Joined: Feb 27, 2011
    Posts: 455

    bubba55
    Member

    Great start - I've got '38 parts - which will work with your '36 low cab -most people that I've read and watched here take '37-38 door pillars and replace the '36 wood for strength - PM me if you need anything - still working on mine - gathering parts - Good luck
     
  23. old chevy dude
    Joined: Aug 25, 2014
    Posts: 35

    old chevy dude
    Member

    Does anyone sell new pillars or do you have to cut from old doors? And will they fit a 34?

    Hey; I thought all Bubbas were in Alabama.
     
  24. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Thanks. No hurry. Like I said I am interested. But really can't spend the money right now.


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  25. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Thanks for the info. I wasn't to Sure on the pillar thing. I've seen fab'd up pillars that i know I can do. But using the 37-38 pillars will be a lot easier. Do you happen to have any? And how much would you sale them for? Thanks


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  26. bubba55
    Joined: Feb 27, 2011
    Posts: 455

    bubba55
    Member

    Sorry - been out widdling in my wood shop - if you search subject you'll find info - I've got 2 old cabs at my parents farm in SC - and no to old chevy dude - bubba's are everwhere - just let me know what you all need - prefer to trade or barter - money is tight in the real world. As far as I know the only difference in '36 low cab and 37-38 was wood in cab - me thinks - correct me if I'm wrong
     
  27. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member

    Got my intake today. Thanks chopt31
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1412383450.712934.jpg


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  28. www.chevywood.com has pillars. They aren't cheap though!
    Here's my '34 high cab...[​IMG]
     
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  29. Lilred36
    Joined: Sep 3, 2014
    Posts: 67

    Lilred36
    Member

    Ridenlow, I too am building a '36 and will be using a '37 cab door pillars to replace the wood in the '36. So far the only difference I've found is the '37 windshield is 3/4" taller than the '36 and the cowl is different where the fender crosses the body on the '37.

    I spent most of the past weekend removing all the wood, what was once wood, and termites (yes really) from the '36. Have it pretty well ready to accept the '37 posts. This coming weekend I'll be removing the posts and cross bar (lower window brace) from the donor '37 and prepping/test fitting in the '36.

    I'm watching your project thread and will be starting one of my own as soon as I have something of substance to provide. I will be photo documenting the process and hopefully will post a much as possible. First will be getting the cab all in shape, welded up, etc.

    Question for you, and those other's on the HAMB with '36's. We all know '36 was a transitional year, but it also seems there were transitions within the year as well. I have wood mounting blocks under the floor at the front of the seat riser. I don't recall if that is also the case on my other '36, but I'll be checking on that this weekend. SO, on the current project there are a total of 8 cab mounting points. I have been thinking of welding up the floor space between the cowl section and the flat area in front of the seat riser, the area where the 3 recessed flat head bolts are. I can't think of a reason the cab couldn't be welded solid. Does anyone know or have an opinion why the cab couldn't be welded solid?

    Thanks all, happy rodding!
     
  30. ridenlow559
    Joined: Mar 6, 2011
    Posts: 37

    ridenlow559
    Member



    Thanks for the info Lilred36. Yeah I think I'm going to go with the 37 post also. Just need to find some and I want to do a mild chop on mine. So I'm wondering if I should wait until I find the post or just do it since you said there is a bit of a difference, and work them in after the chop. Do you have any leads on a hood I'm trying to find one for a good price. Thanks.


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