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354 HEMI in an engine stand DOs and DON'Ts

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The37Kid, Apr 27, 2013.

  1. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,293

    The37Kid
    Member

    I've actually moved enough crap out of the way to get to my 354 HEMI, what are the do's and don't's about puting it in an engine stand? :confused: Thanks! Bob
     
  2. ChopTopJimmy
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,446

    ChopTopJimmy
    Member

    Make sure you have a heavy duty engine stand. Those early hemis are HEAVY. CTJ
     
  3. If I remember correctly 775lbs without the intake .
     
  4. Nitrobaron
    Joined: Feb 3, 2007
    Posts: 65

    Nitrobaron
    Member

    354 should be a conventional block, no exteneded belhousing. With heads, iron intake and such it will be heavy, so first off, you will want a good heavy duty stand, preferable a 4 wheel type, not a 3 wheel tricycle tipper. No Cheapie HF deal for this.

    The two top bolts will carry the most stress, so clean the bolt holes and run a tap to clean the threads. You want a bolt long enough to give good thread depth for strength.

    The lower holes, one side is tapped and the other side is a thru hole, so have a long enough bolt with a washer and nut ready for that side.

    Other wise, handle with care as with any big block weighted engine.
     
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  5. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 6,550

    19Fordy
    Member

    Be sure and use a stand with a wide wheel base and 4 roller coasters - 2 of which swivel. The larger dia. of the casters , the easier it is to roll. Make front engine supports that bolt to the block and extend downward to a 2 x6 placed across the two engine stand legs.
     

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  6. Nitrobaron
    Joined: Feb 3, 2007
    Posts: 65

    Nitrobaron
    Member

    Another thought, the heads are obviously heavier on the Hemi than most conventional engines. Try to eyeball the center of gravity, the point your stand will rotate the engine around the post. Adjust the attachement arms so that rotation point is through that estimated CL so it will be easier and less tippy to rotate with the heads on.

    I see too many guys try to center on the crank center line and end up unbalanced, with too much weight above the CL, and the thing rotates fast after it gets off center. Result, engine on the floor, Boom.
     
  7. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,268

    Marty Strode
    Member

    There is nothing wrong with a 3 wheeled engine stand, as long as it is built heavy duty and the rear spread on the wheels is at least 36", I built this one out of 3" pipe. I usually mount the engines, with the pivot lined up right around the cam line on the block.
     

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  8. BashingTin
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 270

    BashingTin
    Member

  9. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,293

    The37Kid
    Member

  10. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 6,550

    19Fordy
    Member

  11. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 6,550

    19Fordy
    Member

    37kid, I still say "go with 4 wheels. it's nice to know that if you bump a pebble or a nut and bolt on the floor, it won't tip over.
     

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