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Projects 34 Ford rumble to trunk

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by vet57air, Nov 11, 2014.

  1. Doing a bit of a refresh to my 34 3 window coupe. The car was a rumble but the previous owner changed it to a trunk but didn't put in the latch sheet metal. He just used a window actuator to open and close. I am taking that out and installing the sheet metal and latch.
    I have the sheet metal roughly installed for the catch for the latch and have searched high and low for some original pictures of the trunk area with no luck. I am using a "Howell" VC2 and VC2A pieces. I would really appreciate a few tips. Anyone have some pictures of various angles?
  2. vet57: Sorry you haven't made any progress on your request. I actually took two sets of pics last night but can't get the computer to down load them. Must be my "old" chips in the camera.I'll try some more tomorrow. Tim
  3. Thanks for the heads up timwhit. I can really use some pictures. I have the piece bolted in place where I think it should go and fit but I am not sure about the front to back placement. It looks like it should be spot welded to the outside panel (below trunk) but I presently have space between the new catch sheet metal and the outside panel (where you would weld)? It may not be a big deal because I was thinking of glueing it there, as it saves me some painting as this is a finished car? Pictures are worth a thousand words.
  4. My latch and the interior panel it mounts to are both original pieces and the latch is bolted to the interior panel and doesn't contact the outside panel. I still hope to get some pics some time today. Tim

  5. I see where there is a bolt on either side panel for the catch panel and there is another stock panel that bolts to it with multiply screws to the floor. Is there any connection welded or other between the catch panel and the outside rear panel (under the trunk)? The catch panel has a flange there with holes which I thought were where you would spot weld to outside panel? It must be at least sealed some way as this is where water will go from the trunk rail drain channels? Russ
  6. Does anyone know if the trunk catch metal bolts in or is it welded in?
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2014
  7. After exhaustive research I have found that I don't have a inner trunk support. This is what the trunk latch piece bolts to. Does anyone know if this bolts in or welds in to what? Any pictures of this area would be appreciated.
  8. This is a panel I got from Steve's auto restoration for 34 coupes with trunk. The trunk floor is not original. 34trunkfloor5_09.jpg
  9. Made our own latch panel. The original latch bolted to the latch panel. It was kind of a heavy sheetmetal [may even 1/8th inch] loop. Don't know if these help of not. 34trunklatchpanel1.jpg 34trunklatch.jpg My car had no connection from any trunk inner pieces to the outer tailpan..
  10. This is what the original 34 rear inner panel looked like...hope it helps 34rearinnersmall.jpg
  11. Thx for the pics. You have come a long way from where you started.
  12. Russ: Finally got all the planets aligned in cyber space so here's some pics of my "stock" latch. 001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG
  13. Thank you very much for the pics. I just figured out that I don't have a inner trunk support. Once I install that I will have something to bolt the latch sheet metal to.
  14. Does anyone know if the bracket for the stock trunk support is reproduced or will I have to make one? It is the piece that is bolted/riveted in the drivers side trunk rain gutter which the support pivots on.
  15. 48-760
    Joined: Dec 15, 2009
    Posts: 142

    from OH

    I do not believe it is reproduced.
  16. Finally received the inner trunk support which made installing the rest of the trunk latch sheet metal fairly easy. The trunk latch sheet metal that the trunk catch bolts to seems to be a "bolt in". There are pieces that attach to the side trunk gutters which could be bolted in or welded? I was going to install tubing drains in the trunk latch piece and then prime and then install so I could seam seal it so it doesn't leak into trunk and then paint it in place. Is the way to do it or am I missing a seal or just totally lost?
  17. Vet57: In reading your last post, the piece I sent you a picture of with the latch bolted to, is bolted in on my car. It was likely riveted originally. I'll try to get a pic of it if you need it. Tim
  18. What the heck, here's a couple of pics of were the panel with the latch bolted to it, fastens to the rain gutter. You can see that the triangular piece (sort of vertical) is riveted to that panel but I bolted it at the body. You have to be careful of the bolt head interfering with the edge of the trunk lid. 003.JPG 004.JPG
  19. Thx Timwit. Rivets sound good. Looks like you put in drains? Did you or would you go over the seams on the triangle pieces and trunk latch with seam sealer and then paint to keep water out of the trunk?
  20. No, wouldn't worry about it. I don't plan on driving it in the rain on a regular basis. The black dot you see is a drip from my primer gun and not a drain hole. Hope this helps.
  21. 34trunkfloor5_09.jpg 34trunklatchpanel1.jpg 34trunklatch.jpg
    This is what we did with mine. We also drilled holes at the base of the trunk gutters and I sunk a pair of 3/8ths steel fuel lines about 8 inches long [for drains] with the flared end to the top. Still need to weld 'em in place.
    Oh yeah, the latch panel is some 18 gauge we broke and cut access holes in to reach the nuts and bolts that hold it in place. We flared the metal around the access holes with hammer and a little more finished look and keeps arms from getting cut up when sticking them in the holes. We kept the original 34 latch but changed the latch plate from the old original "strap" to a modern adjustable "loop" style found at U-pull-it on some 60s mopar car.
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2014
  22. Have all my trunk pieces in place and will be ready to paint soon. Having a tuff time trying to get the latch (upper) to catch (lower). Presently the trunk lip rests on the lower catch when closed. Not much room between upper latch and the trunk lid lip. Stock 34 pieces, but maybe I am missing something?Anyone have some tips to make this work?

    Attached Files:

  23. Someone must have lived this pain?
  24. Zurekbrau
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 202


    I did. I can take pictures and measurement tonight.
  25. My latch was working great! And now it doesn't catch. Still need to do some final "sciencing out" to get it right.
  26. cheepsk8
    Joined: Sep 5, 2011
    Posts: 586

    from west ky

    Glad you guys took these pics. I have the same problem ahead. Vet57air, do you have your stock latch on your lid? Mine also is a rumble to trunk conversion but the PO shaved the handle. I have my inner pieces bolted in place and a latch panel came with my pile of parts, but like you I don't have much else to go on. Let us know how all this turns out. I will be waiting and watching.
  27. I have added all the trunk sheet metal and am using the stock latch and catch (repo's). It looks as if the catch on the body will have to be bent differently to clear the lip of the trunk lid, but am hoping for some good advice on the best way to make it work.
  28. Vetair: I had to "re-shape" my stock latch plate to get the "hook" in the trunk lock to caatch it. Had to pull it up to start with. Slid a big screw driver through it and pulled it up. There's a bit of a fine line between working and not catching so keep playing with it (?) PM me if you need anything. Tim
    Zurekbrau likes this.
  29. Thx. I will try and reshape on the bench. I can see it needs to go up and back.... nothings easy.
  30. Zurekbrau
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 202


    Measure01.jpg TrunkLatch.jpg TrunkLidLatch.jpg LatchCatch.jpg Measure02.jpg Measure03.jpg

    Here are some photos. I do remember reshaping the lower latch to get it to catch just like vet57air said.

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