Just starting my first build and have a couple questions. Is anyone aware of a stock style replacement front cross member for a 34 Ford? Mine has been repaired and looks like crap, I thought about trying to remove it and clean it up but think it's beyond my ability. Everything I've found so far looks like it's designed for boxed frames. Has anyone heard of narrowing a front axle? I was told that my front axle is a 46 and from the king pin /perch relationship it looks right. On the back of the axle I can see a reinforced area that seems to be consistent with narrowing it. Does anyone know if this was common practice and more importantly is it safe? I've attached a couple pictures, hopefully they will provide enough detail.
No info yet on the first post, so how about another question. What is the best way to brace the frame before boxing and welding in the new front cross member. any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Here's a stock 33/34 front crossmember for sale in the H.A.M.B. classifieds. The front crossmember for a '33/'34 is pretty unique and a stock crossmember in good shape would save you a lot of work. You could always put an ad in the wanted section of both the H.A.M.B. and over at the Fordbarn... 1933/34 Ford V8 Front Crossmember If I were you I wouldn't screw with a hacked up '46 axle. You can pick up a good core for a Model A axle or a '33/'34 axle for about $50 and have it dropped for about $200... Remember the perch bosses are differient so if you already have your bones, you may as well get the one that fits. Strip your '46 axle for all the good parts and use them on your new axle. Hang the '46 on the garage wall for a conversation piece. I built the frame for my coupe using a front crossmember that welded between the boxing plates. You can check out the build in the albums on my page if you're interested. P.S. I clicked on your pic's and they came up the same size as the thumbs, too small for my eyes... Good luck on your build...
Thanks for the info / advice. I just checked out your build pics looks like great work! I plan to purchase a dropped axle from Sid's, talked with him last week and he went through the different size wishbones. I have the larger ones. Couldn't get in touch with his partner that drops the 33/34 axles last week so I'll try again this week. I was looking at the cross member from Pete and Jakes, but need to figure out the next step. My original idea was to box the frame, but place the boxing plates inboard rather than flush. I thought that may look a little more like a stock frame and give me some space to run brake lines etc... Sorry for the small pics, I'll try to enlarge and repost. Thanks again for the advice / info, I really appreciate it.
better pics?? You can see the reinforcement on the right side of the front axle and not sure what welding technique was used on the cross member
in case you did not know; there should be U bolts up and over the crossmember, not those short bolts. Some people might have fixed the old crossmember, depending on how bad the underside looks. It's a toss up sometimes, deciding if it takes longer to fix, or to replace it.
I'm all in on the idea of replacing the crossmemeber with another 33-34 unit. I had one similar to yours and repaired it and "lowered" it while I was cutting and welding. It was a LOT of work. If your not boxing your frame you will need an original type member and HRP mentioned an A member..they automatically lower the car an inch. What body do you have for the frame? We are all wondering anyway so bless us with more pics. Tim
That welding teqnique is known as WRONG. There are many variations of it though. Either done by birds with C-diff or dissantary or some expert who believes in the adage " if you can't weld good, weld a lot" Your best bet is to get another cross member. They are out there, might take a slight effort to get because they aren't sold at wall mart.
Id just repair your crossmember, you could probably get a peice of tubing and cut the bottom out of it and cut out the bad center of the crossmember and weld in the tubing, i know people that take good crossemebers adn cut out the center and move up where the spring mounts to get it lower also, lots of options there but i surely would fix it before replacing it, if you do pull it out i need one for my car and would be interested in buying yours, i do have a repop weld in crossmember that id trade you towards it too. but again i think youd be better off fixing it. sounds like you have the dropped axle deal figured out. jeff
The body is a 34 Chevy 3 window coupe, chop and channel already completed. Always wanted a 33/34 Ford but the chevy was available. It's sitting as I picked it up, while I'm trying to figure out where to start. The u bolts wouldn't fit through the cross member due to the buggered up welds so the PO bolted a small plate across the bottom of the spring for transport. Spring only has three leaves, plan to pick up a heavy application, rolled and tapered Posies super spring to go along with the dropped axle from Sid. My step father finally convinced me to get the wheels/tires I want to run, take the body off the frame and get the frame and suspension sorted out first. Get the stance right the way I want it then put the body back on and go from there. My plan is to fix/repair the cross member, replace the front axle and spring. Then box the front portion of the frame and weld in the motor mounts. Thanks for all the advice and info, some days I think I've bitten off more than I can chew, but hearing and seeing the way you guys on the journal have approached your builds helps a lot.
I'd replace the entire front end.. I just got my 4" dropped '34 axle from Okie Joe and he does great work! There are other axle guys in California too that can get you a dropped axle to match what 'bones you have. Get an A crossmember too and flatten it out for more drop or leave it stock and burn that sucker in there. Just replace that part.. Scary knowing there are guys who think that stuff is okay to run. Nothing wrong with a Chevy. They look great too!
Isn’t a model A cross member a problem in 33’s and 34’s …. radiator fit issues?
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