The upper headers in my 34 tudor were laminated from many pieces, they all came apart. That plan will probably work fine, or you could also get new wood here. Brad’s Woodshop, Friday Harbor, WA (360)-378-3886 Wood Kits for Early V8 Fords and top quality. Brad does not have a web page and you'll have to call him for his email address.
I used 5/8" oak dowel and premium weatherproof wood glue. Installed about a half dozen. The visible crack was about 1/2" from the edge so I embed the dowels about 1 1/2". Seems pretty solid.
Regarding dovetails, I don't know what '34 ones look like but if they are similar to '32 then United Pacific make adjustable ones which might help. Solid stainless with the tongue separate from the base with a toothed interface between, clamped together with a screw from the back. Work great. Chris
They're actually not! I found this out when I moved the doors upward on my '33, thinking I could use those adjustable United Pacific '32 dove tails. The bolt pattern is wider on a '33-34. I machined new stainless dovetails for my car, but if I were to do it again, I'd start with new stainless ones from Walden. A quick trip through the bandsaw would free the dove tail to be placed where ever it needs to be before welding it back together. https://www.waldenspeedshop.com/pro...ord-closed-car-stainless-steel-dovetails-2-pc
Not sure how one would go about Cory's cut up and weld method as getting the parts aligned could challenging. On the other hand I could imagine modifying the UP 32 adjustables mightn't be too hard, oh yeah! They're investment cast stainless which I've found tig welds nicely. Chris
I have made good progress. The doors have pretty good gaps, rocker replaced and damage to door is mostly done. Again this paint is over 30 years old but still presentable. I decided to give it a repaint because of the accident. Pictured is the passenger jam at the rear by the hinges. You can see the cracks. Assuming concussion of accident caused. Had some on the drivers side also, which was the site of the impact (mostly running board). Took my dremel and took the cracks down to metal and brushed in some rust resistant epoxy. From there will fill, then paint. I don't know the construction of these cars, is jam part of the body or separate and then nails are used to attach to the wood? The way this car was painted it appears filler was used to blend in the jams. It has lasted 30 years but is this the proper way to do it on these cars?
Wow. Lots going on here. That kink in the jamb, how to, what to, that's all your choice. I'd gut it, pull the door, blunt off an old chisel and gently move the metal back where it belongs. By gently I mean hit it hard enough in the center to move it in as few blows as possible. Too many hits will make it brittle. NO HEAT. Door alignment, yeah, how was that able to close with hex heads? Must have ¾ windlace (!). If they're just temps, ok but still. If you're making the best of Henry's effort you'll get 3 outta 4 good gaps. Same process, different car/year, my 39 needed alignment too. Reveal line, door to quarter, nice. Hgt, nice. Top is gappy at the back side but tight at the front, cowl is close but not perfect. A piece of ¾ plywood in the cowl jamb padded up with some rags, a gentle shove a wee bit at a time, done. Too much will buckle the door skin. Now it closes and aligns very well, before windlace and seal. Your 3W should be as easy. It's a Ford.
The original bolts are flat head 5/16-24 slotted head fasteners, so they sit just about flush with the hinge itself. The gaps between the door and the pillar are normally pretty tight. EDIT - my statement was for a 5w, with thread inserts in the steel pillar. I forgot this is a 3w, so I believe you screw into the wood? Either way, it's still a flat head fastener.
You see something I don't. I just see and feel a crack in the paint. The accident hit on the drivers side at the running board. Wasn't going very fast but folded up board in center enough to dent door and rocker. No damage to fenders. You will notice the paint missing from the hinge. That is from me bending the hinges to get the door where I wanted it.
Here is a link to show what the original hinge fasteners look like. https://cwmoss.com/products/door-hinge-screws-and-washers-1932-36
Thx for that. Car came with bolts I had previously replaced them with polished stainless. Since aligning the doors I had noticed they were getting pretty tight to the bolts. Both doors now have tight gaps at the back. I am presently sanding this jam to open up a bit. Does anyone make pretty stainless flathead fasteners?
The jamb covers are tins that are just tacked to the wood. You should be able to see the edge. Yours have been filled over.
I sit corrected, I though that was the lower hinge and a dent in the corner, now I see it's a reveal. Like others said it's been filled and now cracking.
Thx. Not the way I would have done it, but I guess it lasted 30 plus years so I will continue on. Funny, all the cars/trucks I have done have been complete body off projects. This car I have had for about 15 years and bought as a finished car....... except I have pretty much changed everything. I said I would never paint it as it was presentable and very fun. Now with the slight accident I am painting and look at it more critiquely. This is a hobby, but I am pretty picky, but this is a repair and repaint. Very easy for me to get carried away. It will be nicer than it was just not as nice as I'm used to doing.
Picked up these stainless bolts today at a local boat place. I use stainless everywhere I can and like the Phillips head on these.
You'll need to turn down the diameter of the heads to nest down in the small countersink, or just buy the reproduction screws. The CW Moss link posted a few replies up shows the small diameter of the head.
What is the best way to finish off the Jamb area by the hinges? Being the the jamb covers are separate but obviously not readily removable, there is a gap. Do you seam seal it? Fill it like mine is? Even just by painting would the paint not tend to fill the gap?
I would personally leave the gap and finish it on all sides, but I'm one of those form follows function types mainly from all my years in restoration. Imagine the flex and movement of a door on a 30s car as it goes down the road. Just my opinion, not my car, but I get why you'd consider it.
I personally don't care for the all smoothed over look. So I would remove the sealer and go back to the original visible seam. If the gaps were small, I might let them slide. But if they are large, I would tweak them to fit better.
I plan on running the bumpers again. To do this I will need to change the rear panel back to the original. Only problem is the previous builder installed a recessed licence. I'm not totally against these but I think I could make it better. Excuse my simple drawing that took me 5 seconds to make on my phone because I have searched and could not find a picture, although I am sure I have seen one somewhere. What I want is a heavy casting, chrome plated, not to go around the licence plate, but to go around the sunken portion of the panel which houses the plate. Anyone seen one? I would rather not have to make one.
Had the same deal with the dovetails on my friend's '33. Thought maybe it was the repops; but dug out and tried the original parts with no change. Cut the dovetails, welded them offset, and sent them out to the plater.
There is a seam on each side below the trunk. Mine was cracked, so I took a dremel and cut a channel. It is not very deep, maybe 1/16" What is the preferred way to do this. Seam seal and paint or fill it and paint ?
That seam is not supposed to be filled, I think it should be there for flex. Clean it all out and use some seam sealer way down in there that will allow the flex.
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