Oops, wait I lied to you. I forgot I had 4 more bolts holding the heads to my block. So that means there is a total of 34 bolts, and 10 of the 4 1/16" length bolts. I'll edit my other post. That intake would be a fitting thank you! Just kidding, happy to help.
Haha...! I'll put you down for the next one I get... thanks again Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ok... so thanks to Cretin, I got sorted out on what length bolts to use... Got another question though: There are (4) bolts, on each side, that go thru deck of block, and into water jackets... I picked up some thread sealer, and applied to these bolts, but seems like still a risk to seep a bit of water... this is permatex white paste sealer, btw... are you guys using a different chemical on these ? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've used hi temp silicone permatex on threads like that with success. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Polish that intake! It'll put a smile on your face. Do not be concerned about potential value in rough casting form. Leave the Edelbrock logo in place (it is a bear to polish around it). I run mine without chokes. I run mine concurrently and with careful tuning can get a 500RPM idle (with a 3/4 Full cam). See avatar. It is 324 Olds.
Good looking mill, van Dyck!! I will polish it. It will look great! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
if you're missing anything hardware wise let me know I've got a box full of cadillac hardware from multiple engines as well as some other random stuff I'm clearing out. also have an edelbrock 3 ×2 with carbs if you're still looking. Sold my 390 so... Sent from my SM-G920R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also, check carefully for porous casting. Mine had an almost imperceptible hole in a runner. I filled it with J-B weld. I know where the repair is; most people don't even see it.
anyone ever hear you can put/use studebaker solid lifters in them if you want a solid cam? are the hydro automatic trans that go with these motors any good. i found a complete running motor with a hydro trans.. not even sure how many gears these trans have in them?
I've never heard of anyone using Studebaker lifters in a Cad... Stude rocker arms yes, but lifters no. The early Hydros are good transmissions, heavy but tough. They are 4 speeds. Any of them are good, but the last years of production up 'til 55 or so are the best with Dual Range and clutch actuated reverse. The earlier Single Range versions have a mechanical reverse that is a little more primitive. Now, the '56 and later Hydromatics will also work OK, but they are not as strong and hard shifting as the earlier versions.
good to know this is a 1948 (early)331 with 3-2 carbs and hydro trans in running condition for $1500 is this a clutch activated automatic? in where you clutch it to leave or stop..and it shifts itself? If i understand it.. its not a torque converter its a fluid coupler or do i have this wrong?
In my experience, 48 Cads had flathead engines. "49 Cads came with 331 OHV engines. Very well thought of by Hot Rodders in the next 10 years. Cads had four speed Hydromatics. Chryslers had the semi automatic with the clutch and fluid coupling. The first racing automatics were the GM fourspeed Hydros and were sold by B&M at the time
If it's an overhead valve engine it's a '49 or later. No, it is an automatic, the only clutches involved are internal and are hydraulic, actuated automatically. And yes, it uses a fluid coupling, not a torque convertor. In order to figure out what your looking at you need the information from the ID plate on the right side of the transmission, then someone can decipher that and give you the year, etc..
OK guys, listen up... here's a thread that Marcus Edell posted years ago... an oldie but a goodie. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-info-cadillac-ohv-v8s-1949-1962.8282/
What did you get? I'm a little ways out from building the engine, but I plan on using 390 heads, with studs, and polished acorn nuts.
I was talking about the head bolts etc. Having a list of part numbers that interchange would be valuable.
If interested in the Offy 3X2, you might chime in here...I have been begging for them to bring it back for a while. http://offenhauser.co/ask-offenhauser/question/please-bring-back-the-331-cadillac-3x2/
Measure your head bolts. Thread size. Thread length. Overall length. Call the ARP tech line. The guy will set you up with what you need. It wont cost any more than if they had a kit. You guys get to hung up on I need a '56 Cad head bolt kit. No. You need head bolts that fit.
I was referring to head bolts also. Like I said, I’m a ways out from needing that info so it’ll be a while before I look anything up. But, it sounds like just calling up ARP is the way to go. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I did buy some studs to use along the bottom row of exposed holes... I don’t have the number handy, but did exactly what Rich Fox said, and called them. ARP did not offer anything the same length that worked for bolts located under valve covers, especially the turned down bolts that allow oil flow around them. I’m planning on running stock bolts there. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I never tried a Cad. I did get bolts or studs that worked for me on some odd engines. Some I did need to cut shorter and some I used on the Dodge with the Morton & Brett head I did turn down some. Not to sure what I did to the clamping strength there.
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