I really like the cartoonish rake on that car above and this rendition... I assume they pie cut the frame. Is it done fore of the cowl? If so does it effect front/rear pinion angles? What about cross members? Do you tack them in after? What about the front 5-7 deg caster that is to be welded in? Should I wait until wheels and body are on? What angles for each aforementioned detail?
It would be pie cut at the firewall. But as you are going to channel yours just build the frame flat and drop the front of the body down a bit.
Would the body need to be shimmed on the rails? What is the purpose of the pie cut? and how about the opposed Angle look of frame and body?
You can mount it flat to the frame and pie cut the frame, OR leave the frame stock and mount the body at an angle. Make sense?
Yes sir I figured that, but why do they angle the front portion up? Purely for aesthetics? And would you need a rear shim to get that look? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To elevate the rear body to achieve the angle, wouldn’t there need to be a shim or something on the back of the frame rails to raise the back end of the frame for the body to sit on? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The lifter gallery is a greasy sloppy mess This block had bolted on water pumps, whereas the previous block didn’t?? Came out easy enough. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Before... After I TIG welded the opening down some... a little ways to go. I was going to use a small piece of steel but wanted to practice my weld building skills. It’s all about heat control, patience and good shielding. I used a flat ground tungsten also for a wider arc. It’s very difficult not to get rod impurities on the tungsten which causes an unstable arc... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I would soak the whole thing. It will make it much easier to get apart and. A lot of the crud should just float away.
If it does not have water pumps in the block, they are in the front of the head. So, similar, sort of, to the 8BA heads, kind of. The early blocks are 21 stud heads rather than the 24 of the later blocks.
The bolts were able to turn hand loose... very weird I haven’t even tried to even clean the block yet. And now the bad news. The crank rocks about 1/8” up and down but is still frozen. I’m so annoyed. I’m thinking sawzall or milling machine. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Flip it over. Wash it off then put bleach on the pistons. Let it soak. It will eat the aluminum enough to knock them down to get the crank out and then pound the piston up.
The Jalopy Journal
