327 ?

Well over the weekend I got my 327 going but here's the problem It's "Popping" out of Driver side Exhaust? This motor has set for 3 years previously before i bought it, I had to replace some push rods which leaves me to believe that a valve on driver side is still not functioning fully. Some are saying it could be a Flat cam? The distrubotor has been changed out but doesn't feel right when hand on top of it you can fell the motion...Compression is good, firing order is good so What else can i do? Thanks!!!

B.coupe

 

hydraulic or solid lifter?? pull a valve cover and put an indicator on top of the rocker arms to see if they move the same amount. I'm guessing you may be pretty close on the flat cam lobe. another thought is a vacuum leak in the intake??

 

Loosen the valve cover on the passenger side and remove it at low idle so you can observe the valve action. If you have a flat cam you'll notice one or more rockers with less movement than the others. If that's the case replace the cam, no other cure.

Frank

 

If you're not comfortable withe running it open, just crank it over without any spark. A little easier to measure the rocker movement too. Anything funny looking will probably lead to a stuck or sticky valve, collapsed lifter or worn cam lobe.

Unless we're missing your description of "popping" Is the header flange seated right? One of the ports leaking?

 

Thanks For your responses. hydraulic or solid lifter I'm unsure of, How can I tell?. I have run it open but no measurment were taken, If I drive the car would that stuck or sticky vavle work it self free? I'll look into the header flange.

Thanks Again B.coupe

 

You stated that you had to replaced some pushrods. In your most recient post you said you didnt know wether you had solid or hyd lifters maybe theres your problem you adjust them differntly DUH OldWolf

 

Manifold vacuum leak will cause the popping noise you describe. The are a couple of ways you can test for this.
1. Have the car running at an idle and spray starting fluid or wd-40 in short bursts along the sealing edges of the manifold where it meets the heads The engine will speed up if a leak is present and the combustible fluid is pulled in at a leak.
2 I had a leak at the manifold once and it would pop while accelerating. I had a manual choke on the car and could pull the choke out slowly until I acchived a balance on air flow between the carb and the vacuum leakage and the popping would go away.

Try retorqueing the intake bolts first if you have a leak, if that doesn't cure the problem then you will have to replace the intake manifold gasket. Be especially careful when installing a new gasket because the rubber seals at the front and rear of the intake are which easy to misalign, squeeze out or allow to slip which will then give you a nice oil leak.

 

Pull a couple rocker arms and see what happens when you (by hand) push the pushrods down into the lifters. If they are hydraulic (and healthy) you should be able to push a little movement of the plunger by hand. Push straight and even, and not too hard, you're looking for less than 1/2 inch or so and it should slowly push back at you.

Remember though, you might find one stuck in the up position or collapsed down, so you might not feel movement.

If you have a stuck valve that's really stuck, you have probably already bent another pushrod, collapsed a lifter, bent the valve stem, bent a rocker arm, or pulled the rocker stud out of the head. I think you would have noticed that while you had the cover off. A sticky valve will usually work itself free with time though. Hopefully it's not hanging down into the piston though. That will cause a pretty clear "tick" as the rocker/valve/pushrod will separate and come back into contact.

 

Thanks Jhonny-o...

 

No prob man. Let us know what you find.
Just keep in mind that there are a lot of things that can sound like mechanical... exhaust and intake leaks mainly. But you can run for a little without hurting anything on those two accounts. The main thing is to make sure you aren't hurting anything in the valve train while searching for it.

I'm also trying to put together why you linked the distributor to it. The only thing I can imagine is something cam related to spinning the dist. Not sure if a flat lobe would do that though. Have you checked the plugs? Are they all firing? Maybe one fouling out and only firing once in a while?

Not sure man, but like you're chasing, sitting for a while and having to change pushrods sounds like a hydraulic lifter sat compressed for a long time and isn't freeing up. There are a couple hillbilly ways to help that, but diagnose what's going on first.